JeepcoMJ

need to move out and stop spending so much dime on jeeps...

link to pics. photobucket is acting up..

Well Jake has been having clutch and trans issues, so he, automan, and I swapped my spare ax15 4x trans in today. I hate to see him having troubles with his MJ because he's a good kid, so I made him a great deal on the complete conversion...he's just getting a new job so he'll pay when he can afford to (not too worried, like I said he's a good kid) Anyways, things did not go as planned.... but it runs and drives, and the clutch works. His clutch issues were that the slave cylinder leaked, and the master cylinder was just plain WRONG for the jeep. wrong bore and stroke...the P.O. actually extended the push rod for it. the pukey came out with no real issues. fluids came out a nice creamy white :ack: after that was out, we discovered that virtually none of the original pilot bearing was left. We also discovered that it has a new clutch (newish), and that the transmission had most likely been swapped in from a 2x XJ. the trans we installed is a '93 4x4 xj ax15. the input shaft in the pilot bearing area was .750"...or 3/4". the old one was .50", or 1/2". the new pilot bearing (bronze bushing) had the same OD of 1.05", or 1 and 1/16"...however, the inside was 5/8". So, we set out to find a different bushing that would work and have the proper ID for the new trans. having tried two different parts stores, and a hardware store, we had no luck...so out came the drill. unfortunately my drill press is dead, so we had to do it by hand...it's not perfect, but we sanded it out a bit and it will at least get him by for a long while until we can find an external slave setup. After that, we installed the new pilot bushing...the old one came out almost too easy with the slide hammer. new one went in well with the proper pilot bushing tool. having had no issues thus far, we went out for beer and burgers @ Freds bar and grille in b-town. after lunch we went back, got the trans prepped, 4x4 shifter in, and body side linkage bracket in... and installed it all. got it all bolted up with the rear driveshaft in, and hooked up the slave then bled it out...around this time (with much swearing), the slave blew (or so we thought). so...it all had to come back out. dropped it all down (didn't take more than a half hour or two haha), and inspected the slave. The slave itself hadn't blown...but the lines going into the slave had blown because they only had one O-ring each (they need two). Not willing to chance more issues, we hooked the slave to an extra master I had and mounted it to a pedal assembly I had laying around...then retained the slave using a ball joint press. bench bled it out and locked down the bleeder and tried as hard as we could to blow out the slave. It held, so it all went back in. at this point, we had the trans in, and we needed to halfarss fix the exhaust before the x-member went in. got that together (with a trans mount....something jake's jeep was unfamiliar with previously), then put the x-member in. Conveniently, the 4x ax15 relocated the x-member back to previously unused bolts, so it went in easy. then bolted on the starter and driveshaft. It's convenient that I just converted my brother's '88 LWB/ax15/4.0 to metric tonne...gave me the proper driveshaft to get Jake's jeep driveable. Then we had to run to my friend zach's house, where I'm building another comanche for him that's going to be auto....and nabbed his old unused master cylinder. Bled the clutch (feels AWESOME) and tested everything out...it moved the rear wheels, so that's all that mattered at the point. BTW, the CPS was an interesting issue...this thing had the factory CPS repair kit put in at some point...From what I know of it, there's an issue in the factory loom and this was the recall repair...we couldn't remember which connector the CPS was hooked to previously but it was 50/50 so no harm no foul. then drained trans and t-case fluids, refilled, bolted in the shifter, and put the seat back in (had to remove to lift the carpet to get the 4x part bolted to the trans tunnel). buttoned everything up, test drove it, and it works GREAT. unfortunately, I didn't have time to pull the rear end from zach's parts jeep to get matching d35 rear just to get the 4x4 working. so, right now, it's still 2wd. We left out the front driveshaft at the moment. I'll be preparing All in all it was a hectic day. Between parental issues (I work on things in my dad's shop, which my mom thinks she's paying the bills for...yeah, right :rotfl2: ) with my mother, insults from her to me, rob, jake, and our jeeps, and the fact that we had to drop the trans twice and reinstall it twice, plus the hackjob that the P.O. did with jake's rear light harness as well as the clutch system...well, it was just not fun. We got started @ 10ish AM and didn't get done until close to midnight. oh well... Anyways, it runs and drives, his clutch system is operating @ 100%, and he has tail lights now. We'll get the 8.25 ready for it soon and swap it in, along with new shocks and finish installing the center console. oh, and jake now has functioning interior lights too, so he doesn't have to guess what the jeep is doing @ night now :D :banana: oh. and yes, we reused the E-torx top bolts. had no issues with them whatsoever.

there's an option missing. I woke up still drunk, and continued to drink. no hangover, and sober as a bird now...fortunately I slept around 10 hours total...gotta get up in about 3 or 4 hours so I can get the gears back in my front axle and get my truck out of the shop....then need to replace the alternator on the diesel, and tighten up the track on the sled, so that I can bring jakeman's axle in and work on it...

had to torch the spiders out of the carrier, so it's cooling down (don't want to quench it)....truck's not back together. I'm stuck here :( no party @ robs tonite.

I have a door switch hooked up to complete the circuit on my air horn....with just a plain switch set up on it to cut out that part of the circuit. so pretty much, if someone opens the door and doesn't know where the switch is (good luck), and they break a window then open the door, they're SOL

I had the regular version of that...the 75wrx or whatever it was. it had CRAP reception, CRAP signal. conveniently sized, but they've got the worst reviews of anything in the CB world. -Pat

.... they go for $250-$300 range, last I checked. ...I paid $505 out the door with an hp G60 wide screen laptop that's dual core intel pentium processors, 3 gig memory, 320 gig HD, cd drive, SD/27 in one card reader, plenty of ports, and has an expansion connector to go on a docking station. ...I'd rather have that than an acer.

sounds dead. that sucks... i still don't know.

building a "real" winch bumper. :roll: oh and odds are I'm building two of them, one for me and one to sell... that's what you said about your longarm setup... well that was because it wouldnt have been a "bolt in" system. yes huh it woulda been. bolt-ins can require welders too :dunno: !

it won't run diagnostic software. it has an intel atom processor, or some equivelant...not even close to enough juice to run much for programs. I had an hp netbook for about a week before I took it back because it was just too slow. itunes was taxing for it, much less anything else. and that's just a simple program that reads a file and puts it through the speakers....a diagnostic program has WAY more going on at one time than itunes does.

building a "real" winch bumper. :roll: oh and odds are I'm building two of them, one for me and one to sell... that's what you said about your longarm setup...

short answer, no...you cannot weld a trac-lock carrier's spider gears to each other. nor can you weld them to the carrier...w/o the clutch discs, you'll have to put 10lbs of wire into the carrier to hold everything in place. no bueno. and you can't weld the spiders while the clutch discs are in there...discs will fracture and eventually break off/fall out and destroy your bearings

k. I was fairly sure that acer had xp, but not confident. I'd get one to have and use with microsoft streets and trips plus a gps antenna and mount it in my jeep...then use it for itunes (IIRC it has 160gig hard drive) and navigation...but that's about the only thing I'd have a use for. screen's too small for much anything else...gotta scroll all over just to look at websites.

I've put block heaters on every vehicle I install a motor in. my 87 (current semi-D/D and wheeling rig) had both a block heater, and a oil pan heater. the oil pan heater is just a "temporary" magnetic heater...it comes off in the warm months when I'm wheeling, because I don't need THAT falling off. aftermarket block heaters are available for around $23. they're more or less identical to the factory ones, and replace the forward freeze plug. takes a complete coolant drain and about 15 minutes more of time to install. with the magnetic heater on the oil pan, the pan stays a nice, toasty 45 degrees all around (tested with a thermal thermometer gun thingymubob.

likes....It has wifi. dislikes: if it has vista, it SUCKS. if it has windows 7, it only has windows 7 Starter edition, so it SUCKS....you can't even change the background on the screen. not exaggerating. it has no CD/dvd drive. it's tiny...keyboard is close to normal, but not quite there. touch pad is just inconveniently placed to click on the buttons. I wouldn't buy one again, unless it was used and cheap. anyways, I thought you didn't have money to spare anyways. you've obviously got a computer already...you don't have a finished comanche.

*sigh* I lied. your welds somewhat improved...but I know you didn't grind off the bad welds from something like 10 pages ago when you first started. you're not getting enough penetration, and your machine isn't set right for what you're doing...that, and you're not chipping all the flux (IIRC that's what you've said you are welding with) off before you lay down more beads, so your welds are not even 1/10th as strong as you think they are. the idea to just cut the steel around the mounts is, in some cases, good. NOT your case. as I've stated, to do it right, you need to remove the rear axle, front leaf mounts, cab mounts, and bed....THEN repair it, and weld back in all of those parts (or make new ones to replace the JUNK spring mounts). doing it half@$$ed to go wheeling is the worst idea ever. I would never wheel something that's more likely to break in half than not...for my safety and that of others, I would NOT do it. that, was my last post until I see some decent work done.

USE THEM btw...hope you don't have obese friends :rotf: ...may not end well LOL i keep meaning too but i always froget alright. this is my last real advice in this thread....I'm struggling ALOT to contain the things I really want to say. advice: in this type of fabrication/repair, you CAN NOT FORGET ANYTHING. period. no excuses...your excuses are growing very old and are the reason that there are now 12 pages of this thread of advice being ignored by you. I'm really sorry man, I had to say that...I don't dislike you, hate you, or feel anything negative towards you as a person...but this fabrication is terrible. it's NOT being done right because things keep being "forgotten". again...do it RIGHT or don't do it at all. -Pat

USE THEM btw...hope you don't have obese friends :rotf: ...may not end well

use the steel you have, and wire brush the heck out of it if you have to. if your wire brush doesn't work, it's too fine of a brush and you need a coarser one. flap wheels are not that expensive, and they go for miles...that is the best solution.

I want to know how the hell you got it to bend IN instead of out...

you haven't tried hard enough.

yep, new outlook. I buy my own gifts now, let's leave it @ that...

this is what clean steal would look like....zero rust....and not just on the contact area...the WHOLE PIECE should be rust-free, so that it can be rust-proofed. and notice how the paint/undercoat is/would be cleaned off of the item to be welded to. http://www.globalwest.net/images/Img4102.JPG and those are proper welds, as well. unfortunately, the link image is too large to directly post on here...and I don't really care enough to resize it. every surface to be welded to should be SHINY metal with no contaminates (i.e. no paint, no rust, no other objects on the metal)

no