JeepcoMJ

nice history. I don't have background in anything but comanches, cherokees, and some VW...I'm 23 now, have had/worked on a comanche since I was 12 or 13, and I've owned over 15 MJ's and around 5 xj's. I can tell you flat out that the trans was swapped in. please don't take me as a jerk etc...I'm just telling you what it is. an owners manual can help you identify transmissions and whatnot, but it's only going to show you general information about all of the transmissions.

Not entirely. After 99 the NV3550 was put in and some Wranglers 05+ got the NSG 370 6 speed, but IMO it's not really worth the hassle. ok. how many people realistically will EVER have an xj with an nv3550?...there were not many 5 speed xj's made between 99 and 01. I discount that entirely because I know I probably won't ever have one lol. but touche....any jeep from 90 to 98 with a 5 speed and 4.0 should be ax15.

I'm gonna make it but I have zero intention on buying anything.

you literally cannot put an ax5 behind a 4.0. this subject has been covered many times. it's impossible with the available bellhousings, and it's far from desireable...the transmission is a light duty transmission. it's threshold is less than 110hp, if that. your option is an ax15. a ba10/5 should be tossed right out the damn window...they're a band-aid transmission meant to get you by. any jeep 4.0 5 speed from 90 on has an ax15.

stop getting annoyed...it's NOT original if it's an ax15. the aluminum spacer further proves this.

you can put all 2.5/2.8 stuff together. ALL 2.8/2.5 shafts will match each other provided the transmission, rear axle, and wheel base are also matching. also, are your 2.5 liter shaft lengths 2wd or 4wd? you don't have a t-case listed with them, so I assume 2.5..however some may not. also, ax4 and ax5's are literally the same transmission, so you can "lot" those together as well to save space on the list. I will have measurements for lwb 2.8/2.5, , ax4/ax5, np207, 4x4, d35 by tomorrow if I remember...I have like 5 of those shafts just laying around...

sweet, be over to grab it in a few. won't do you much good anyways...it only goes up.

congrats! ...I think we all would have made the same choice

they really don't have all that much to do with making the brake lights still work. ...other than a full on cherokee conversion, the only thing that requires modifying/figuring out anything when it comes to brake lights is perhaps grinding a bit off the rod that goes to the booster from the pedal...and that's just to give it a flat side (if it's 97+) for the switch to rest on. just did a '99 booster swap on my brother's '88. went in easy, I chose to space the booster off of the firewall a bit in order to make the pedal remain even. anyways, if your brake pedal doesn't go down when you start the motor, you have a bad booster...or a complete lack of vacuum @ the booster. just pop the line that goes to the booster off and start the truck...if it doesn't have vacuum from the line going to the booster, the problem is the line rather than the booster. if it does have vacuum, replace the booster. -Pat

5 of them... when I got home...

thanks. you can't tell the sound of it all that well from the video...it was late and I didn't want to really get on it. sound would have been better if it was actually recording near the tailpipe too... wizard, I'm not concerned about it. if they really want my hi-lift, they can have it. it was free from the junk yard anyways... -Pat

got out the plasma cutter and welder when I got home to see how bad I could screw up the front inner fenders...only got around to the driver's side as I still need to relocate the battery(s) to the bed. first step was to cut the lowest part out, trim out in front of it, and relocate the curve from the front of the inner wheel well forward. like so then to fill in the gap that was left I still need to finish weld a few spots and have two smaller areas to fill in, but I ran out of argon so I called it a day. since I have to d/d this thing right now, I had to paint it to avoid having it get rusty, and I had to temporarily mount the ECU and air horns. here's a comparison...driver's inner fender (cut) to passenger inner fender (uncut) gained about 8" forward front tire clearance on the truck :D

today I half@$$ed a functional exhaust together....I had A LOT of leaks, from front to back. went to look, and the stainless clamps that came with the borla header and down-pipe had loosened up, and the downpipe was no longer in the tranny hangar. on top of that, last week the tail pipe was rattling on the rear x-member under the bed, so I cut it off real quick @ work. so, it now has a flowmaster 40 and is welded from the catalytic on back (although my welds look like a 3 year old did them...I didn't have time to clean, just needed it done and leak free)...tightened and lock-tite the clamps on the borla downpipe so they wouldn't loosen back up by themselves. this allows me to remove the exhaust quickly and easily. poor quality on sound, but here's a short video that shows how the flowmaster sounds. It was late so i couldn't get on the throttle either I also bought a new optima red top on sunday. re-installed my A pillar gauge pods, and installed my dual needle pressure gauge. this will show both tank and regulated air pressure. Right now only the regulated pressure is hooked up...it is the red needle (R for regulated...). the white needle will be tank pressure. I need to wire up the back light in it still, and I should also relocate my tranny temp. gauge to the pod as well...the dash space where the trans temp. gauge is right now would be better used for either a factory clock, or who knows what. I made a suction-cup dash mounted "tripod" for my digital camera so that I can record wheeling trips. When I made this video, I was tired, sick of driving with mud terrains in bad road conditions...I completely forgot I have 4wd low or I probably would have made it lol. oh well. turn down your speakers before you play it btw...

this thread is an invite. come on with lol. then I can give you your tire winch...

what do you intend to weld the new metal too?

those are parts. that truck is parts. parts parts parts.... it's too rusty to be safe and fixed. it would be easier to get a decent body to start from and swap the stuff from yours to it.

haha, Aaron and his girlfriend? :nuts: what, you think she's nuts? or do you just want this whole thing to be a sausage fest?

lol guys

ax15 doesn't bolt in behind a 4 cylinder without an extremely rare dodge dakota bellhousing. you are looking for parts for an ax-5...and you can get the slave in metal. make sure you order for your year of truck, NOT the year of the trans, and swap the bellhousings if necessary. as geonovast stated, you also have to swap the bearing retainer/front cover of the trans to make this work.

I would scrap the truck. it doesn't have floors, cab corners, rockers, a decent bed, or a good frame. that, my friend, is a junkyard vehicle...it's just waiting for you to send it there. -Pat

bolted down the rod and main caps on the high output I'm building for a friend's comanche (which I'm also buiilding), as well as put a new rear main on it. then I wired my brother's plow lights. put in a 6 pin toggle to switch between factory and plow lights so he can actually drive with the plow up. then I ate at george webbs with some friends. Then I spent the last few hours dicking around on the net, while wiring up my crossover harness properly for the 95 H.O. xj dash wiring to 87 renix mj rear wiring.

haha, Aaron and his girlfriend?

finally finished the xj to mj crossover harness using mfpdm's DIY thread on it. need to install the crossover after I tape it all up, but it should now be good to go, and I should finally have interior lights etc.

Thanks for this write-up Paul! ...just (finally) buttoned up the crossover harness on my 87...haven't put it in yet, but I'm sure everything inside will now work. Do you have any information, though, on the green connector that ties into the black connector on a high output? it goes to the power options harness (to the pw, pl, pm harness) and I have several loose wires on that connector...everything has been working except for the window switches on the passenger side don't work (can control from driver's side) Thanks, Pat

I'm aware that they're different, was just checking that I can use the clutch with either.