JeepcoMJ

another old one... well, thursday night I had an owl hit the windshield...didn't appear to crack it any more than it was before, but friday morning it was dripping water onto my tomtom from condensation through a crack that apparently just got wider. so, friday I pulled the windshield out of my 95 cherokee shell (very smoothly with the tool I have for removing windshields), and got the one out of the MJ after much cussing as the tool wouldn't fit because of the old style of clips it uses. jakewi came over today and helped me out a bit with cleaning the "new" windshield, going to the junkyard for a window seal and coming back with a bunch of parts. I got the windshield frame cleaned out after we put some roof rack rails on jake's xj and a new steering stabilizer, then primered the bare metal and put the new windshield in. we also put 97+ cherokee rear hatch struts on the hood of my mj...no more hood prop rod :D they work phenomonally! then I put 97+ door seals on both doors as they're thicker and seal better. need to put the 97+ mirrors on the doors...I like them better because they fold inward instead of springing back...will be nice in tight spaces and off-road. windshield is curing right now (taped up to the roof so it won't slide down in the frame), windshield trim is on, and now I just need to clean the windows and interior, then put the seats back in (took out to keep glass off the leather).

old update from another forum... I have the mounts for the tank and hi-lift done, just need to redo the lower 8" of the rear roll bar tubes as they're rotted out pretty good, and full weld the bottom of the mounts. tank is pressurized, air horn is mounted and installed. need to set up the york compressor now, and add in a pressure switch and blowoff valve to the input side, and I'm good to go. everything mounted horns mounted (157 decibal...slightly high pitch, but not too high) temporary intake relocation until I build a canister for it switch for horn is temporary until I find something electric that I can just wire into my horn buttons. it's the one on the right (need to put a red cover on it) two bolts used as studs on the lower end of the HiLift. I'll be grinding off the threads and throwing a rubber "sleeve" over them upper end of the HiLift mount...tractor pin welded on. nuts still on it to make it adjustable. saved me some time, worked out great. had to shave down too sides of it so it fits in the hilift. need to drill hole bigger for lock to fit through pressure gauge and output side well, here's a pic from behind. it doesn't even get in my way visually when backing up turning out good so far. things I need to do yet: replace junk tube on roll bar, rear mounts on it, fully weld, and paint replace front left wheel bearing (shot) replace pitman arm TRE (shot) home-brew OTK remove welded gears from front axle (don't like 'em on the street) front end alignment swap to 4wd metric tonne MJ rear springs (net 1.5-2" lift, higher tow/weight capacity) custom trans x-member (tuck it up, lower control arm bushings on each side of the inside of the frame rail to eliminate the factory trans rubber mount) rock rails/sliders modify rear bumper/build different one to fit with cut box tube fenders/side protection/trailer lights instead of factory tail lights storage in the box somewhere for tools relocate battery to rear add second battery with cutout switch for it (change both to optima blue top's) upgrade alternator to 140amp dodge alternator mount york compressor to engine and other necessary to make work modify inner fenders up front pull front axle and truss plus bumpstop redo rear shock mounts plus bumpstop finish plus install overhead console install nice tan interior (no more camo guys) install sony xplod plus sony 10 disc CD changer, 600watt amp, and 800watt sub in custom MJ box make spare tire hold-down for the front of the bed (need to get a spare) install "new" windshield" custom cowl hood rear disc conversion that about sums it up. probably won't happen in that order.

well I was there....

is the plug for the coil plugged in @ the right spot? there are two different spots it could plug in @ on the coil...only one is correct...

Aaron, if you have any issues while you're working on it you can call me tomorrow night. I'll pm my phone number again in case I didn't already. I know for fact that that dash harness was good, and that it's interchangeable between years..I took it from that 89 5 speed and ran it in my 87 for awhile before I swapped to high output....and the reason for the H.O. swap was a utterly destroyed block on the renix motor. If you're still having issues with this by the end of the week, I could dig up another 89 dash harness I have, and I have an 89 auto engine bay harness and just send them you're way for spares just in case. -Pat

confirmed

just humor me a little and check that the CPS wire isn't contacting the exhaust manifold... I put a new one in mine, a week later it was melted to the manifold, and had I ruled it out immediately before I figured it out... -Pat

also could be the CPS wire melted to the manifold which is now causing inconsistent voltage going through the wires.

that's a good idea.

ok, I understand. it doesn't even have to be that soon...I can send half payment to him and he's OK with it sitting there. I'd pay for some gas or whatever you'd like. it's a dash, heater core, dash wiring, and dash accessories. you need a topper for your truck :P

it worked in theory, but had negligible differences in them.

IIRC, blue is just the vent line for when the disco slides over.

nah, I mean in michigan where are you from? I have a chance on getting some '99 dash parts from grand rapids area...but if I could pay some cash to a friend who was driving along the way and it wasn't too far out of the way...that would be the cat's @$$.

yeah. didn't figure that someone I've known since I was 5 (I'm 23 now) would do that though.... oh well. I found a used 02 sensor for it, got the borla straightened out, put the downpipe back on, and got the cat and muffler back on...cut the tailpipe off @ hangar behind the muffler as it was rattling around. I need to put my flowmaster 40 in anyways, and turn it up to get rid of the bends in the tail pipe.

not a huge party, and y'all will have to park at the end of the shop...I do not need any more freakouts from the person who *thinks* she is in charge. saturday or sunday? brent, where is it you're from again? -Pat

after putting a fence up around a ridiculously large area (1 acre) for two little 10lb wiener dogs to play in (btw, I didn't put this fence up by choice), I... tightened down the control arms in the front of my brother's jeep, mounted the steering assemblies, installed the axleshafts, wheel bearings, front discs, calipers, pads, track bar, disconnect....then removed the diff cover, cleaned it, cleaned out the inside, bolted on the cover, filled it, and moved on. then ran the wires for the new plow for it, installed a new solenoid, tested it to make sure it works, scratched my head on where to mount the control switches, said screw it, and moved on. then installed all four air shocks and routed the lines for them. then scratched my head on the headlight wiring for the plow and got it figured out..mostly. then got pissed off at a friend who borrowed my lifted comanche to move some stuff to his new house...he went for a joy ride on the way home apparently, end result is I needed a new 02 sensor and he tore my exhaust off from the cat back. of course, the retard has no money and didn't think it was a big deal since (as he stated) " have enough parts to fix it"...which I don't. so I halfa$$ed it back together, put in a used 02 sensor from a 4.0 I'm building or a friend, straightened out the borla header and down pipe as best as I could, and called it a day.

get well soon joe! ...I'll try and get a new power source for the laptop for next time I'm up there...I have a new shell for the screen too, so the hinges won't be so cruddy -Pat

this thread is about bolt-in drive shafts. I'll thank anyone to keep other information out. this is for guys planning on swaps, so they can plan accordingly and pick up what they need before the swap....keeping them from being stranded. I'm sure we've all been at that point of "oh sh*t I have to drive this thing to work in 20 minutes and have no rear drive shaft... there are umpteen tech articles/questions about rear driveshafts, and it has become almost common knowledge on the thread that you'll probably have to cut down your rear driveshaft because you probably won't find one that works. this is a thread about uncommon knowledge reguarding which driveshafts work

see u there can I bring a girl with? want to tone down the sausage fest a bit...

crying shame. I hate when idiots don't know what they have, and don't care. that thing may as well have gone to cash for clunkers... a diesel cherokee is WAAAY more than any hick can handle

I've checked with napa and the parts are in their list, but they can't get them (or don't want to take the effort to try. Pete, I picked up a complete, BRAND NEW motor for the diesel for $75 on some guys trailer...noticed it from the oil pan, it was upside down and destined for scrap because he couldn't figure out how to make it work as a log splitter motor :P

city around 26, highway up to 35mpg. my dad's 86 comanche turbo diesel has a cracked head and a crack in the #3 cylinder wall., and still gets 33mpg etc. these are an interference motor. they require frequent timing belt adjustment, and the timing belt MUST be replaced every 90,000 miles. chances are, if you're buying it, you should replace the timing belt. do it now before it blows. if it blows, it will break the rocker assemblys off the valve train, and maybe bend valves...the only parts place for them that I've found was in iowa, but they're out of business. that aside, you *may* still be able to find a winnebego lesharo parts place that has parts for it. there are no interchangeable parts w/ any other jeep when it comes to things like the alternator, power steering pump, vacuum pump (yes, it has a vacuum pump...if it goes you cannot replace it except used parts. if it goes, you will have no CAD functions and no heat), and even the starter is used. it's a paris rone (or however you spell it) starter that you'll be lucky to find anywhere. all in all, very rare parts.

...I hope you intend this for daily driving. the renault 2.1 puts out 89 horses at best, and less than 200ft/lbs torque. the starters go out frequently, and are a 3 hour job to replace, if you can get them.

Any idea what the spine count is on the 207 and if aything else bolts up in its place? 21 spline. a long input 21 spline np231 will bolt up in it's place.

nice idea, but the 2.1 has a completely different bellhousing from a 2.5.