JeepcoMJ

not too steep. a 2.1 renault turbo diesel with 5 speed would need (and comes with) 4.10 gears. the transmission is an ax5. the transfer case is an np207. there is one problem, if you're going to fix it...you need to know how to pull an ax5 apart. the reason for this is that the renault 2.1 ax5 has a different input shaft than the typical jeep ax5. an ax15 WON'T bolt behind a 2.1, as there is no bellhousing to make it fit.. how much is this cherokee? you could probably make a quick buck selling it to me...I'm always looking for parts for my 86 comanche diesel.

you can convert wing back 4dr seats to 2dr seats with a wing back 2dr frame. you *should* be able to use the "normal" 2dr seat frames, but you will probably have to cut the supports for the wings off the 4 door seat frame and put them on the 2 door wing back seat frame. I just converted cherokee limited leather wing backs to 2 door wing backs.

this thread is about bolt-in drive shafts. I'll thank anyone to keep other information out. this is for guys planning on swaps, so they can plan accordingly and pick up what they need before the swap....keeping them from being stranded. I'm sure we've all been at that point of "oh sh*t I have to drive this thing to work in 20 minutes and have no rear drive shaft...

there are only two filters I will run in cars... wix, or mopar. my high output gets mopar, everything else gets wix.

How does this put unnecessary stress on the window installers? :huh???: Is the windshield already out? As previously stated, you don't have to mess with the plastic tabs that hold in the metal trim anymore if you use the new rubber trim... It just wraps around the windshield. IMHO it is a much cleaner look with the rubber and I would definitely make the switch. you DO have to ditch the plastic tabs. you don't have to cut the metal tabs off that hold on the plastic tabs.

I'm trying to compile a list of viable MJ rear driveshaft interchanges... Of the swaps/conversions I've done... truck: Longbed 2.8/2.5 liter, 4x4, 5 speed/4 speed manual, np207 with a dana 44 rear and stock springs (I converted from d35 to d44) driveshaft that works: Shortbed 4.0, 2wd, aw4 auto with a dana 44 rear truck: Longbed 4.0, 4x4, 5 speed (ax15 and ba10/5), np231 with dana 44 rear and M/T springs (converted from d35/3" AAL 2wd pack to d44,M/t pack) driveshaft that works: Longbed 4.0, 4x4, aw4 automatic with d35 rear and stock 4x springs add more if you have any. also please add driveshaft lengths, measured from center of ujoint to center of ujoint. I will update mine with lengths when I get a chance to measure.

reed switch (magnetic sensor) inside a magnetic ring on the output yoke/flange...it does not have a slip rear driveshaft

Nope. It is all electronic. I never priced a Klune. One fell into my lap. I spent the $80 on a couple of parts from them to get it going. Doint it again I would probably get an atlas at the price you stated but I didn't pay that much for my Atlas though. what's all electronic? the speedo? yes, it is. the 91+ ones were electric too, but you could pull the electric sender out and put a mechanical one in...they were the same. with that in mind, I think someone with a bit of time and inginuity could pull it off.

plus, IIRC the case is the same...the only difference is the output housing where the speedometer assembly *should* mount, and there probably is not a worm gear on the output shaft. but, if it's true to most NP t-cases, you can *probably* take the guts from a rubicon case, put them in a regular np231 case, and either add a worm gear for your speedo gear, or swap output shafts with a regular np231 t-case.

There are deals to be had. The 4:1 rubicon will be tough to get your speedo going. ...and will still be cheaper than spending $2000+ on a klune.

both the klune and the 4:1 kit cost more than twice what a box4rocks doubler kit costs. not in my budget in any foreseeable future...upwards of $1200 for that... best bet for 4:1 is to find someone who totalled a rubicon wrangler and nab that np231

(Hey Pat, its lefty-loosey, righty-tighty...) Rob L. :dunno: :D lol. nah, they just were being a PITA. I had to heat the nuts red hot to be able to loosen them up....sooo that new wheel bearing that was on the driver's side is now junk, as is the other one...leaving me with zero wheel bearings :( ...now what to do about the fact that my dad left the 2wd calipers on the truck when he and I converted it...he put the 2wd knuckles on it (it had 4x4 unit bearings, but the knuckles have the caliper part cast on it...) and, unfortunately, the new axle has 4x4 knuckles, which just plain won't work. soo I guess steve needs to buy 4x4 calipers and new wheel bearings :-/

GAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :fs1: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :headpop: :wall: :wall: :wall: i CANNOT get the wheel axleshafts unbolted from the wheel bearings on the old axle I just pulled from my bro's old truck, and I cannot get the driveshafts out of the wheel bearings from the "new" axle. I need to put new ujoints in, but want to clean them up...and it's easier to do that with the wheel bearings off. I also have no idea how good any of the wheel bearings are. I've tried every method I can short of torching the nut off (I did heat the nut though), and I'm using a 6' long, 3/4" breaker bar with a 4' pry bar....there's no way these things should not be coming apart. grrrr

gonna be doing it for a friend's jeep soon....google search box4rocks np231 doubler, it will come up with some good write-ups on other forums. ...I don't know if box4rocks is still available, but there are other doubler companies. it's not cheap, but I'm told it's worthwhile. you'll need the front half of an np231 case to do it, plus your good np231

After all the work of combining them, and especially if they really weigh infinity, you'd be better off just installing a 4:1 kit in a 231. ....except that 4:1 kit costs like a grand, and you can get both of these t-cases for less than $75 @ the junkyard.

combining an np205 transfercase with an np203 t-case nets 4:1 crawl ratio

lol, Don thank you...I'd have to say that labeling it "good work" is something of an overstatement tho...

I'm glad I finally paid up...and very sorry for being a >insert foul word here< -Pat

They are WHAT? Grand Wagoneers had 6-bolt wheels, whatever the standard Chevy pattern was. Was it 6x5 or 6x5-1/2? yes, sorry eagle. I'm not feeling great today and meant to type 6 bolt but was thinking about how I'll have to replace my rims with 6 bolt...stupid me lol.

thanks. this also means I'll need new cragar soft 8's...8 of them :-/

I lucked out the other day...a family friend owns a scrap yard and got a '91 grand wagoneer in...360, auto, 4x4 with d44's/driver's drop axle. he gave me the axles and turbines off of it for getting a jaguar xj6 sold for him for much more than the scrap price he was gonna be getting... I don't know the difference in track width (are they wider, narrower, etc. than MJ/xj track width?) but they are 6 bolt. disc front drum rear, obviously leaf sprung so I'll have to build mounts to go with longarms. I also need to know what gears a '91 waggy equipped with factory tow package would have as well...tags are rusted off :-/ and I won't have time to mess with them for a few months... Thanks, Pat

the maroon work truck looks rust free...very nice. and nice factory meyers plow :D...my bro just got one for his MJ as far as washing behind the flares, he means to wash out (by hand, using a self-wash or pressure washer) up inside the bedsides. water will arch up and over the top of the wheel well, kicking out all salt etc. and prolonging the life of the vehicle. nice swb too...but lose the darn cab lights, they look terrible on MJ's IMHO. and welcome to the club :D

christmas is still a month away...

the words "cheap" and "lift" should NEVER be used in combination. less expenisive, sure. but "cheap" usually results in "redneckery" resulting in more problems than you started with. a budget boost is the least expensive...spacers and shackles.

I've never had one, so they must be rare :dunno: ...but hey, it's not like I've had upwards of 15 comanches or anything :yes: :brows: :rotfl2: