JeepcoMJ

fixed it for you... a little bit of rust and those factory bumpers are good for nothing but looking at.

:P looks like the only difference is between the two collectors to the downpipe section...looks like yours has been repaired in there, or maybe it's just a flaw in their earlier brands? either way, that's a $250 header for $40.

worked on my bro's... he cleaned the plow frame up, we mounted it, I cleaned his new dana 44 rear axle up, painted it, did the same with the backing plates, shafts, etc. then went to TNT's house and picked up the stanley heavy rate rear springs out of the '89 I sold him to put in my bro's '88...it gives around 3" lift over stock. then pulled the rear end and leafs out of my bro's truck, and called it a day. front leaf bushing sleeves are a PITA that's for sure. pics and build thread tomorrow...

that wally world battery won't cut it in the world of wheeling...can't run a winch with it (without spending a bunch of time worrying about it)

quick...not a great composite for high mileage. the set I just picked up has just over 1/2 tread, and I'm betting it'll be gone, or close to gone, by the end of winter. I'm also betting they won't do great in snow...but the tread on these is better than the utter lack of tread on my 33x10.50 bfg ta/ko's, and $180 is a hard price to beat for a set of 50%(ish) tread tires, especially when it gives you a fullsize matched spare either way you go.

mounted the "new" 35's on cragar soft 8's I had layin around and balanced them. now I've got eight 35x12.50 dunlop radial mud terrains on 3.25" BS 15x10 cragar soft 8's. yay, one for wheeling, one for d/d.

was that before or after they redesigned the blue top? sounds like you had a marine-only blue top, which is meant to drain to zip then be fully charged again, rather than constantly charged.

plus going up several sizes with stock gears will also give you terrible mileage

take it in to advance auto or carquest, somewhere that keeps them in stock. IIRC optima has a replacement warantee on them if they go bad (they're not supposed to). I got two optimas from the junkyard once, both were done for...one blue, one red. traded them in straight up at advance auto, and they didn't give me issues about reciepts etc. one of them got sold in an xj I had, the other one resides in my brother's '88 comanche. it's been there for 5 or 6 years, never had an issue. I run dual interstates in my truck...because they're 1000 cold cranking amps, and the main one was free out of my company van when they did their yearly replacement (gotta love the company throwing things away :D)...the other one was free when said van finally gave up the ghost 3 months after replacement. I'd prefer optima. the nice thing too is that now their blue tops are able to handle constant charge as well as traditional marine run-down then charge.

I understand that. thing is, there is only 1 wire that you'll have to splice in, and 2 wires you may need to extend. those are your tach, temp, and oil psi wires. everything else is "piggybacked". you'd ground the ECU near the battery (3 ground wires IIRC), have one constant power, and one ignition (constant ignition) wire, then a small seperate fuse block for those powers, and one relay for the fuel pump. the constant IGN is in your fuse box...just run a spade into it to the fuse block, then from there to the ECU. I was daunted by the 3800 swap, but it only took me 3 hours to have the wiring done. I used Alldata for the wiring diagrams...I'm sure I can get you the connector views, and layouts etc. using an edelbrock intake and holley 390cfm 4bbl carb will cost you more money than making the fuel injection work, and you'll be happier with the result in the long run.

apply the term "rewire" loosely. it's a matter of swapping wiring harness....there is no "wiring" to be done, just taking what's already there and replacing what came out of the donor. you will need to swap the entire dash harness and make a crossover harness to the rear harness though...but that can be done with everything from the donor, and mfpdm just did a very detailed write-up on the crossover harness in the DIY section. it's hardly a swap to balk at. took me one weekend to have it running, and the following saturday to button up the little things...and I had added issues of using a 95 steering column in it.

edelbrock.com get a gm 60 degree intake manifold with a 4bbl adapter on it, and run a holley 390cfm 4bbl carb. well worth the money. the bell housing on a 2.8/3.4 is 60 degree. you need to swap your oil pan, exhaust manifolds, and valve covers. the timing is accurate for your setup. http://jeep.off-road.com/jeep/article/a ... ?id=277008 good write-up on tech, but no pics http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Pro ... ect_XJ.htm EXCELLENT write-up on how to keep it carbeurated as well. this shows you everything you need to do to do the swap, with good pics. As stated above, DO NOT keep your stock carb or intake. they're half the problem with the 2.8. I did a similar swap, using a camaro buick 3800 v6...not nearly as "bolt-in" as a 3.4. you'll benefit ALOT by going to fuel injection, and you don't have to hack your wiring harness. it's simple when you get the complete camaro/firebird engine bay harness. just need some diagrams/pin connector views to delete what you don't need. then you piggyback the camaro/firebird harness to your factory harness, and use your jeep temp. sensor and oil pressure sensor, since the 3.4 ECU does not use the sensors to tell the motor what to do. the last thing you'll need to go fuel injection is a VATS (vehicle anti theft system) bypass module, which goes to pin #55 on the 3.4 ECU (blue wire) to bypass the injector cut-out. this cut-out is there in case someone tries to start the vehicle by bypassing the keys (which are coded). since you can't use the firebird steering column, this is necessary. follow this link, look for VATS bypass, it's only $25 for the module...cheaper than upgrading a carb. http://mysite.verizon.net/vze7erz1/id1.html if you do go carb'd and upgrade, I'd recommend using a late 80's ford fullsize v8 inline fuel pump...you can splice it right in your fuel line and mount it to the body, never having to worry about pulling the sender from the tank when it fails

I prepped the d44/d30, 3.55, trac-loc axles for my brother's 88, got them shelled out and drying with paint right now. finish those after work tomorrow and then start work prepping the plow for paint.

With my stroker, 4.56's and 32" BFG's I was getting about the same, 17 city, 21-22 highway. Now that I have 35" Truxus, I am down to about 15 city, 17 highway. you should be getting more than that... the truck I have that gets that mileage is my 87, converted to 95 H.O. from an xj, with a bored .030 factory reman, 2001 intake manifold, borla header, either 60 or 62mm bored TB, 19lb injectors. it's not stroked...if I were to stroke it, power to weight increase would net an mpg increase as well. my 86 mj with the 96 camaro buick 3800 gets around 24mpg city, 29-34mpg highway...it's 4x4 with 3.55's and 31's. dad's 2.1 renault turbo diesel mj gets 30-36

But that's not the way the rules of this site are structured. In addition, aside from anyone being offended, personal messages directed to and intended for one or two other members should be sent by PM, not posted in the open forums. Ben might insult Darren and Darren knows (or thinks he knows) that it's just kidding (or not) ... but several hundred other members who don't know either of them see posts like that and start to assume that it's okay on this site to insult other members. It isn't. This isn't Pirates of the Rubicon, this isn't even what NAXJA has devolved into, and I am eternally grateful for that. A little discretion and politeness won't kill anyone. I agree. insults should be kept to pm's. they should learn to joke appropriately. I still don't think we can take them too serious though.

this country is full of p*ssies these days. I can't stand it. People are offended by the dumbest crap and the new craze is twilight and vampires. Really??? With that being said Ben loves vampires and edward from twilight. He should never be a mod here. I should be one over him and I don't even own a comanche. I miss darren. Its so sad he is banned. :( what? ...you're not on board with team edward? how dare you!

I run 33's and/or 35's with 4.10 gearing (factory...4.09 rear, 4.11 front). I've just done away with the 33's. with 33's I get around 18mpg city, 21-22 highway. with 35's I get 17 city, 21-22 highway. not a noticeable difference in mpg, although it does dog down a bit more. shifts fine, but I manually shift my aw4.

no. it has 3.5" lift, getting 3.5" lift in the rear. f150 coils are 1" lift...not enough. I know that these air bags are what we want in it...just wanted to know more about them. '79 f150 coils give 4" t0 4.5" stated here and elsewhere--http://reddeerjeep.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=782 thanks. I'm interested in the air bags, not the F150 coils. the point is to be able to adjust the pressure to the weight...it doesn't need to ride like a brick when the plow is off.

the majority of people will tell you to just keep it in power mode. chrysler did some testing in the early 90's and found out it's better in power mode, so they did away with the switch and hardwired it into power mode.

lots of surface rust, but no rust-through, not even pitting. all seals appear to be OK, and the whole plow is a quick-connect setup, so he won't have to drive around w/ the pump/ram on it all the time either.

no. it has 3.5" lift, getting 3.5" lift in the rear. f150 coils are 1" lift...not enough. I know that these air bags are what we want in it...just wanted to know more about them.

:D. have yet to get there...bought my 86 with 60,000 miles on it. now it's got 72,000 on it and is going on to it's fourth motor (two factory, one buick 3800, and replacing the 3800), 5th or 6th trans, 5th or 6th rear axle, and 3rd front axle... I think my driving style doesn't work with the parts involved...

picked up the plow today. bro ended up paying $1000 for it. it needs maintenance and I have to completely redo the wiring, but everything is in good order. a bunch of clean up, some paint, some new decals made to replace the OEM ones, and it's good as new. guy he got it from was the shadiest mofo I've ever had the displeasure of dealing with. not fun.

Did the intake contact the Borla? Have you thought about 4.88's? yes and yes. and no, I can't afford the gears.

I don't think anyone should take these two seriously. they're funny, they may step out of bounds, but it's seldom something directed at anyone but each other. and if it is, it's about subjects that people should say "well, that's their way of handling it...I disagree"...instead of throwing a fit. that said...the mods can do what they want, but I think the general american population needs to stop being so easily offended.