JeepcoMJ

k. sorry hornbrod. *shrug* it seemed like I was the only one who provided any information in this thread, and so I thought it was directed towards me. here's some pics. had to modify cylinder number 5 down tube and intake tube on each header for clearance issues with the new intake and the borla header here is the intake all cleaned up and painted this is it with the 95 fuel rail and bored 62mm TB here it is with all of the bracketry. [ I modified the pump in this pic, but didn't have the proper pulley yet so I just drilled a hole in the pulley (was to be temporary....has been that way since and I need to swap the proper one in when I put the "new" radiator in out of a parts jeep I have) here it is installed I did it with a complete conversion from renix to H.O.

uh.... me :oops:

I disagree. the only thing I'm unsure of is firing order, because I don't have it memorized. other than that, you may disagree with my info about needed mods to do the steering pump...but I am telling you now that I COULD NOT mount the p/s pump with the old bracketry/old setup.

it's a H.O. throttle body, and there is NO EGR located there. it is simply a mounting bracket that drops down to mount the fuel lines to. that is a regular 1995-mid1999 intake manifold.

1 - Front manifold 5 - Back manifold 3 - Front manifold 6 - Back manifold 2 - Front manifold 4 - Back manifold Looks balanced to me. :dunno: I don't think that's the proper firing order that's on that intake, but I could be wrong

yep. that one off the 00 on ebay will work. you still will need to get the tensioner bracket and power steering pump pulley. you can pull them at local junkyards complete for $100 or so, complete with the tensioner bracket what type of 4.0 are you trying to put this on?

In famous words from grumpy old men... "I eat bacon for breakfast, bacon for lunch....and I drink my dinner" this is something I MUST try. just got a steer back from butcher...now I need to trade some beef for some good bacon.

you only want the intake manifold. it's bolt-on. the only thing that could affect bolt-on is if you are running a header, and what type. I had to modify the #5 downtube pipe to the collector pipe on the borla header, and shave the intake manifold a little bit in that area. in order to put that intake in, you need a 96+ serpentine tensioner bracket and pulley (because the spacing is different for the power steering pulley and without it the serpentine belt won't line up), and a 96+ 3-hole power steering pump pulley. you can drill the threads out of the old power steering pump where the bolts go in to tighten it down, rather than getting a 96+ pulley...needed because the 3 bolts go straight through the pump from the front and into the intake bolt on your throttle body (don't use the 99+ it has an extra sensor) and fuel rail/injectors, then swap around some vacuum hoses and call it good. this is only bolt-on with a high output engine. I'm sure you can do some porting on the intake to make it line up right with a renix....it will bolt on to a renix but the ports aren't quite right. GoJeep has a write-up that involves using the 99+ injectors, but this way was just easier for me. BTW...can't use 99+ exhaust manifolds as there are two...one for cylinders 1-3, and one for cylinders 4-6. no, you cannot do a dual exhaust setup with this (well, don't expect it to sound right...because the manifolds aren't balanced out properly between cylinders to allow for firing order to come through the pipes and sound good. they are set up as "duals" in order to use two pre-cats in the 99+ setup)

I agree with oizarod. that's factory, and it's not a blockoff plate...merely a bracket for the fuel lines.

I have one in my 87 comanche...converted the truck to 95 H.O. your years are wrong though. it's 99.5 thru the end of the 4.0 production. any jeep body style with a 4.0. it's approximately a 15hp, 30ft/lb torque addition. IIRC it doubles your intake volume to 4.2 liters (capacity of liquid/air inside the intake at any given moment)...that's about x20 on throttle body spacers. I like it...but I have nothing to really gauge it's response off of. it went in with a modified drivetrain (built reman motor) with a lift, tires, and proper gears, and was put in along with the upgrade from the old renix setup when I blew the motor. I can tell you though, she really scoots compared to the old renix setup and is still faster than any of my friend's jeeps.

GVW is a class A...they may try and tell you class B if you intend to haul a loaded trailer, but they'd be wrong. class has nothing to do with what you haul.

lol. wade met one of them today when he stopped by so we could figure out his running issue (CPS)

agreed. you CANNOT install a 91+ engine without installing EVERYTHING from the 91+ as for gauges, use the ones from the 94. you will need to either live with the fact that empty is full and full is empty, or get a 1991 to 1992 comanche fuel sending unit (rare) to put in it

I'm betting he used his old wiring and just spliced wires. I did the exact same conversion on my 87 wheeling truck....my solution was to just make a jumper harness to go between the two harnesses (95 and 87) so I could just disconnect them seperately and not have any crossed wires and such..

here's the slow progress. thanks (again) to my friends Aaron, Zach, Steph, and Kelly for their help (or moral support in the case of the girls lol). I've mounted up my roll bar. will need to cut out the bottom 7-8" of the rear tubes, as they're rusted out and the mounting plates are virtually gone also made some non-structural (SCH40 tube) additions to the roll bar to be used as supports for the on board air tank and Hi-lift. the welder ran out of gas right when I finished tac-welding it, so I'll finish when I finish the rear tubes out. mounted up the KC lights. I stole the 100watt bulbs out of them to upgrade my bosch driving lights when the driving lights burnt out....will replace with a set of bulbs from a chrome pair of KC's that I have laying around (I don't generally go for shiny) then I polished up the old peterbuilt air tank (don't like to paint aluminum, and I even tho shiny isn't exactly my thing, this seems to be a nice touch), and mocked it and the Hi-lift up then I mocked up the in and out side of the tank with the pressure switch and check valve on the input side, and the regulator and blowoff valve on the output side. may need to put the blowoff valve on the input side...still thinking about that, which is why it's just mocked up and this is the girl's addition to the project the spare tire will slide in under the mounting platform for the tanks, and have a retainer and a lock to keep people from stealing it. now I need to figure out where to put my tools. also, the batteries will sit in the front corners of the bed...gonna have to make boxes for them. turning out decent. I won't be working on it much for a few days as I'm volunteering at the Racine county fair this week as I always do

that said, you can't get to a point where you're respected enough to make change over night. you have to work for it, day in day out starting in lowly political spots and working your way up. The only thing a guy my age can do to effect change is head down that path, or bich out people who have already been down that path. I choose the latter, because I do NOT want to live a stress full life as a politician. -Pat

.... if I do go, I'm going to badlands camp.

not really. he'd have to buy a clocking ring, or redrill all of the holes. if he resorted to a clocking ring, he'd end up having to buy an extension seal for the trans output to keep it sealed up. as far as grinding it off....based on the fact that the question was asked, I would suggest to do exactly what DirtyComanche said and modify the floor pan with a hammer and block of wood.

Simple solution. Quit whining and blamimg someone else, and do something about it, or get the hell out. It's your turn. uh. hornbrod, in our country, you can't do ANYTHING to change the government until you're roughly middle-aged. well, other than protest and that's gonna get me nowhere. I've already called my senator on numerous occasions.

http://www.e-imagesite.com/Files/obamab ... 697583.gif http://politicaldemotivation.files.word ... empire.jpg http://www.patriotdepot.com/images/prod ... tBlack.jpg we've had members of this board contemplate doing the same thing. I say that america has become a joke....and while my generation is generally "godless rebels" who are doing nothing to stop it much less help it, it's our parent's generation that's putting it into affect. so a big Eff you to our leaders. and thank you to the troops standing up for what they thought (when signing up) was a fight for freedom and democracy.

I'm leaning towards most likely. this completely depends on monetary status..I will not go if I still have debt/bills to pay off.

oh, not to mention. ANY grand cherokee you buy for under $1500 is gonna have a crap ton wrong with it, unless your lucky. and even if there is nothing wrong with it when you get it, don't worry, because something will go wrong. more parts to break is not good on a budget/d/d vehicle

rutledo has 1 post. it is promotional towards some casino in Las Vegas. probably a good idea that he goes byebye

what?!?!?! dude. rethink that statement. the jeep cherokee (base, sport, limited, country, etc. etc.) has been proven, time and again to be THE CHEAPEST and BEST vehicle to own for even moderate trail ridding. I can find cherokees all day long for $1300 or less. sure, they need TLC....but they will need a hell of alot less than that $500 ZJ seen on craigslist, and parts are cheaper to boot. a grand cherokee lift kit costs more than a bas cherokee as well. this is because they are coil front and rear. like geonovast said, there's not much beneficial to buying a ZJ over an XJ since an XJ can be found for less money.

it's a real shame that it's no longer a street truck. I'm sad to see it the way it is. on the other hand, it is a very clean swap so far. keep it goin. just a little note....with a renix fuel sending unit, your gas gauge is going to read backwards.