JeepcoMJ

yes. and no, brake clean doesn't "dry clean" so well when mixed with brake fluid plus electrical contact points. there will be a little bit of residue left that will continue to be corrosive. use electrical contact cleaner (comes in aerosol form)

35's+built 4.0 HO + open carrier + dry pavement also equates to burnout....one wheel style. rear locker is needed, but I want an auto locker not welded so it's just not hapening. gonna be pulling the welded spiders from the dana 30 front soon...just don't like it since the truck actually gets driven.

well I won't be able to make it. forgot that this is fair week, and I volunteer running the petting zoo there every year. should be fun (NOT)

bad wheel bearings are possible also. as well as bad wheel bearing retainers

haha just wait til you're obsessive! that sh*t will make you nuts.

having it tie into the steering box bolts is a GOOD thing. our frame rails are notoriously week right behind the steering box bolts....they tend to break (in half) or crack without any reinforcement. that's greatly increased by lift/tires. having the steering box bolt through there would be wonderful and make them worth a little extra.

ya know, I don't know if I'll be using this in my 86...but I have a NICE black full center console that came out of a cherokee, but has a factory MJ center insert. It'll be a month or so until I decide on the 97+ conversion...trading some stuff for 97 parts soon. -Pat

lol. thanks. We worked out a deal...I'm building his sandrail motor (1600cc VW air cooled) up to a 1900CC right now...just reworked the jugs and built up the heads for it but I need one more exhaust valve before I can put it together for him. it's nice because then all it costs me is time for now. basically I use them until I can give him some money. let's just say that I'll be getting them for less than 1/4 of what the tire/rim combo is worth. and yeah, that's what family is for.

thanks zoolander, but I do not think that the site would have gone south without me here either. my contributions are minimal. my obsession is a bit over the top, tho.

thanks hornbrod. I should probably use fedex then. as I've said before, I have issues with UPS...but there are no fedex centers local to me. Jake, thank you for your kindness but I do feel that I could have handled the situation better.

I have had bad transactions in the past. Akula69 bought a blue interior from me that got crushed when I brought it in to the ups shipping at reineman's. I pieced together another interior but it never made it in there. he took his money back via paypal. also, I've had a history of taking awhile to ship things to people. LotGod's wiring harness has taken a few weeks. it will be at reineman's to ship via UPS and I will be pming him the tracking # when I get it.

I've already stated in a previous topic about another bidder that I will not be selling anything to anyone who is not local. and you can feel free to ban me if you wish. I'd suggest waiting until I have the deal handled (because obviously there is no other mode of communication between me and 87mjdriver, so I will need to use the forum). this is not me being dramatic. this is me being honest. it really won't make a difference whether or not you remove me...I have enough comanche knowledge between me and locals for me, but unfortunately then I won't be able to share comanche-specific knowledge with anyone else on the board. the choice is yours and I won't argue further either way. -Pat

this is *mostly* true. the bellhousings off of the ax5/ax4 are the same from 1984-sometime in the 90's. the only difference is that the internal bellhousing doesn't have the pivot ball for the external slave throwout plate, and it doesn't have the studs or spacer to mount the external slave cylinder. it is, however, machined and ready to go to be converted. that said, I agree to just use the external bellhousing.

thanks guys. I will take care of everything myself, but I appreciate you guys offering help. -Pat

I haven't thrown tantrums reguarding this, and I'm NOT asking this thread to be closed. I completely agree with you Wahoo. and I won't argue anything. hornbrod...you are correct, I did not respond to his last pm.....about 3 months ago. I've put myself in poor situations monetarily and have no concept of spending rationally. I'm working on that. 87mjdriver, I am working on a few things to get money to send out right now. I will let you know with a constant update when to expect it, and when payment is sent. I can't ask if that sounds fair, because it isn't. I can't ask if that's acceptable, because again...it's probably not. I can ask, tho, that you extend your trust that far. However, if you need to, you can probably just pull it back from my paypal account, and I will deal with the consequences of that. -Pat

thank you for your understanding, and I apologize for my poor relations with you. -Pat

87mjdriver. I haven't recieved a pay check in 1 week, and last week I had to pay $500 in deductibles, $700 of $2400 owed for my surgery. I had a hernia, which was partial cause for a testicle to become "undescended". that testicle, which became 70% more likely to become cancerous, had to be removed. on top of that, the hernia (inguinal...i.e. crotch) ruptured last week, and I had surgery on thursday morning for it. the part in question is a serpentine/V belt combination pulley for an on board air system that I'm doing for a friend. I have two york compressors to install...one in mine, which will use a serpentine clutch ($80, which I won't buy until I've paid you back), and one in my friend Aaron's jeep. he's opting to retain the york's v-belt system since he doesn't have any issues with clearance with the radiator relocation to the rear. when I finish helping him design and install that OBA system, I get paid. he has given me the $25 for the part, which I am sending to the person selling PRIOR to him shipping it out (he will send out when payment is recieved). you will get paid when I have money. I haven't had money due to medical issues....knowing full well months in advance that I would be having surgery at some time this month. I know I'm no good with communication with you. here's our communication. hopefully a mod/admin will leave this open, because I don't mind having my faults shown to the forum. everyone has them, and while there is no excuse, I do want everyone to see that I am sorry. LotGod's renix 5 speed wiring harness is on it's way out the door BTW. it was put off due to the surgery. -Pat

your double shackle (a.k.a. scissor shackle) has been done improperly. the upper shackle should be angled towards the front of the vehicle, and there should be a "retainer" on it that keeps it from flexing towards the rear. there should also be a poly spacer between the lower shackle and the head of the upper shackle. this spacer will control the amount of lift/lack of lift that the shackle gives you, as well as allowing for a smoother operation. like so: note the spacer on which the shackle rests. also note, (and this is easier to see on the "at rest" picture) the lip that is on the upper shackle where the two shackles meet. this lip keeps the lower pair of shackles from inverting towards the rear of the vehicle after being fully extended. if one shackle does invert towards the rear, you will have an uneven/rough ridebecause the shackles upper mounting point (body mount) and lower mounting point (leaf spring mount) are not resting on each other...that will put strain on the center of the shackles, eventually resulting in them failing in that area. also, you want the shackles to be angled towards the front of the jeep because you are typically driving it in forward motion, and this will promote less tendancy to lift at higher speeds. view this thread for proper concepts on the funcionality of a scissor shackle system http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... ht=shackle I will be doing a proper shackle setup in the near future, and will do a write-up when I do so. -Pat

I can understand that directed elsewhere, but I genuinely want to know what the deal is here without having to read through tons of pages and I only asked a couple questions...hopefully I did not come off in a derogatory manor but if I did I am sorry. I do agree that he should make it a point to post progress pics at least once per page because, as you've stated, some of the "turkeys" around here have zero clue....and I will say that I am one of them. pretty pictures make for more comprehension to some of us. *shrug* I'd read it on the strokers forum but there is too much tech to wade through on that forum....and I opted to not build a stroker with what is hopefully my last 4.0 build, so I no longer use my username on that forum.

well. these are a temporary loan for my brother...hopefully he will sell them to me (and hopefully I can afford them by then). they are 35x12.50R15 dunlop radial mud terrain's on cragar soft 8's and have maybe 5k miles on them. first pic the axle looks off camber, and my track bar is still off a bit...need to adjust it 1/4" to get it right always critical, I LOVE it but it needs to go up 1.5" in the rear side view rear pass. rear driver's driver's side driver's front

so...engine bay shot? that intake....wtf is up with it? where do the injectors go....or wtf are you doing with it besides?

never thought of mounting it there. good idea :thumbsup:

thanks goblazers. I threw on my brother's 35's today and it looks GREAT. now to con them out of him....

hellcreek, I was saying that it is not common knowledge to manufacturers of lift kits...specifically everything BUT leaf springs. you are one of the few companies that manufactures and/or has anything to do with their leaf springs. -Pat

thats wierd. when you order a lift kit its the same kit for 2wd,4wd,and metric ton. they don't say the springs are different,not to doubt you as I'm sure youve seen the difference and i have not. i may have to bust out the tape measure,remember i have an RRO lift maybe they can't count :dunno: that's because the manufacturers don't bother looking anything up. the fact that the spring packs are different is common knowledge on CC