JeepcoMJ

:bowdown: :bowdown: plug welds are you friends, make lots of them and they will be very good friends :) yes, but unfortunately the holes need to be drilled into the new material PRIOR to welding them to the old material...so that's now out of the question.

I agree with everything here...

IIRC, this includes tranny cooling lines as well as the transmission and *technically* the radiator, as tranny fluid runs through it.

lol. yeah, guys. the clutch/pressure plate I have is 10k miles...unknown on jake's MJ

lucky I also have two trans mounts for ax15's we're also putting a 10k mile clutch in it...save money, and won't have to drop the trans to replace his when it goes out sooner than later.

they drain half the oil out and put liquid glass in them that hardens as temperature increases. the catalyst for the liquid glass (for lack of better description) is friction and heat...it seizes up the motor. you can't take any parts from a CFC vehicle that oil ran through.

I see no clean metal in the pictures.... cleaning just the edges (where you cut to fit) is not enough. also, the entire frame rail should be bare metal in that area...then primer it with zinc weld-through primer PRIOR to welding the frame rail itself. wouldn't hurt to drill holes in the new plates on the sections where the frame rail is still there, so you can plug weld several spots.

This weekend Jakeman is coming up to my place and we're swapping out his crap 2wd ba10/5 for a 4x ax15 I have with np231 and all parts to make it 4wd. I'm just trying to figure out if there are any differences in either size, style, or location of the ba10/5 to ax15 trans mount and x-member. This is the only problem I forsee with the swap. lucky for him, I have a d35 (to put in until I have time to get the 8.25 I'm giving him ready) with 3.55 gears to match the front...and conveniently I just did a complete drivetrain swap on my bro's truck with 3.55 gears and metric tonne conversion with d44...so I even have the proper driveshaft for that setup.

and I see vertical weld points (you chose to ignore the advice to remove the cab corners as they need to be). I don't see any fisheyes nor anything that will help remove shear points. your spot welds didn't look too bad....not too keen on the rest of them though.

if you're not going to weld properly, don't do it at all. going over it quick to just "fill in the gaps" on welds that we've all agreed are not good in the first place is just halfassed.

third on the flowmaster 40 crappy sound clip

drop the gas tank, disconnect the e-brake bracket from the bottom of the bed. if you have a roll bar you will have to unbolt the lower bolts as well.

if you don't want 'em, give them back... 15x7 is about perfect for oversize height tires in the 10.50 width range. and I can promise you...I didn't rub.

IF you don't reattach the manifolds before you drop it in. correy, I still say you're the only person who yanks manifolds before you yank the motor. IDK how you do it...I know I can't fit my hands in there...

dude, I was backing off the snow pile and hammed on it.

I'm with rob and joe...

hadn't considered alloys yet... as for the 260's being stronger....I consistantly break both the shaft ears, and the joints. prior to the 35's, with "non-greasable" 260s with the caps drilled to be greasable, I couldn't break a ujoint but could still break a shaft. there's not enough metal left on the ears of the shafts with 297 joints. that's an argument of opinion. ...hmm. actually, alloy shafts would seem to be the solution, and keep the 35's with just 1" drop and a lock-right. do option 2 more or less and keep the tires but upgrade the shafts. either way, I need to go with a non-disco axle to eliminate the extra crap. and...no dice on sales, thanks anyways haha.

those just look goofy. but extremely nice job!

those just look goofy. but extremely nice job!

my 87 comanche is currently sitting with 7-8" lift 35x12.50 tires d30 front, 4.10 gears. disconnect axle d44 rear, 4.10 gears SYE np231, double cardan rear driveshaft. Here's my issue...I've blown BOTH axle ujoints (since putting on the 35's) now, and it hasn't even been off road with the 35's. This in itself is kind of a feat, since I'm using "ungreasable" solid 260 joints with the caps all drilled to grease them...stronger than a 297 joint, and more meat on the ears of the shafts means they're stronger too. I lost 4mpg by going to 35's...and I'd like to get decent MPG so I can drive it to where I'm wheeling and not cry about it. anyways. I'm trying to decide what to do. A) upgrade to fullsize axles? this will realistically cost me $2000 or more because I'm going to need new carriers...and if I need those I may as well get lockers...and then I may as well get selectables. I'll need gears, install kits, ball joints, ujoints, wheel bearings, hubs, and new rims as well as new brakes...then I gotta weld up the mounts and set them up for longarms. 2) lower the truck and switch tires to 33's. I have $1000 in mounted rubber right now to sell then...as I have 8 matched mounted/balanced 35's. I already have 4.5" coils, and I can do a bastard pack and SUA with boomerang shackles. I would then boatside it, longarm it, and truss the front and rear, with custom shock mounts. this would give me around 7" down travel, 5" up travel, low COG, and with a belly skid/tummy tuck on it I don't think I'd ever have any issues with it. C) leave it be, finish the fender flares and wheel wells and other little projects on it, and pray I don't blow shafts left and right. basically, I have to pull the front axle apart anyways. the spiders are welded so I need to pull them out. I want to get rid of the disconnect because it's just one more thing to break. I'd like to use a selectable locker in the front. I don't see any issues with 33's and stock axles. the boatside would cut my cab corners and rockers completely off, as well as that section of the door and the lower sections of the bed. that, with a belly skid would mean ridiculously tough underside mixed with low center of gravity and good flex.

umm. he hasn't thrown any parts at it yet... No, but in one post he was going to rush out and buy a clutch master cylinder without knowing if the master cylinder is the problem, then in another post he was going to rush out and buy a brake master cylinder for what is probably a brake vacuum booster problem. That's not the way to approach diagnosing a problem. *shrug* I say he just limps it for a couple weeks and I just toss the 4x4 ax15 in it for him, with *new* master and slave and clutch....ta-da, done. don't see any reason that it wouldn't work after just replacing the entire clutch system...which I'd be doing when replacing the ba10/5 with the ax15 anyways. a booster/master that's making any type of air (vacuum) noise and is NOT dual diaphragm is more likely to be bad than not

Agree with Pat... at least on my TJ, I had all 4 off the ground (substantially if you believe the witnesses), bent the front axle tube pretty well, looked about like Pat's pic above, drove it home 180+ miles with bowed wheels... My tie-rod (heavy duty Currie) needed to be pressed straight again, I replaced the front axle assembly and other than some tweaked front fenders (from where the tires were shoved when when the bumpstops "failed") but nothing else structurally wrong with the rig. Wade It would appear that neither you nor Pat hit hard enough to bend a bump stop. I'm betting the OP's unibody is bent. nope. just hard enough to crack the uniframe where the steering box is mounted...apparently the steering pitman arm didn't turn or allow any give when I landed.

The master cylinder does not hiss, the vacuum booster hisses. You are throwing parts at the truck without understanding what you're trying to fix. umm. he hasn't thrown any parts at it yet...

ok. so we likely have a bad brake booster...not a big deal. we also likely have a bade slave cylinder and/or master cylinder. Rob, can we make your garage available for a quick tranny swap? lol...

did you wire the amp supply wire to your starter relay(little box where all the power wires go to...the thin + wire from the battery goes to it)? you probably just arc'd the starter relay and fried it. cheap part, and it controls ignition power to the starter solenoid.