JeepcoMJ

nope. idk where that is, never converted auto to 5 speed. it's not a big deal. that can be worried about last.

yeah, that.

it's not too bad. you'll also need the flywheel for an 89 or 90 5 speed...the 96 one won't work.

nope. you'll need the 5 speed trans harness, and you'll have to cut and splice it to your engine bay harness. technically, you will need to replace your engine computer to run the 5 speed.

new one and bleed.

floor shift xj columns have a lockout feature that keeps you from being able to remove the key unless the shifter is in park. it's easy to bypass, though. FYI unless you're swapping the brake booster and master, you will need the pedals and pedal bracket from an 87-94. the pedal mounts are different.

yeah, the master piston could be bad now. so, I'd suggest a new master cylinder

he's internal. did you check and replace the master cylinder? did you buy a cheap slave cylinder? typically, the only internal slave you want to buy is a genuine mopar part. parts store internal slaves don't tend to last long...

Thanks, plans are a set of cherokee shackles to drop the rear 3/4", 4 cyl coils to drop the front 1", and eventually going down to 215's rather than 225's. the only other things are to fix the body, eventually, and it will get a factory plow soon because my rent gets cheaper if I plow. this will be a somewhat low street truck and daily driver.

yup. gonna be a daily driver, so I want the part time/full time option. the shifter will then read 2wd full time part time neutral 4 low

well, got all of the stuff I needed. finally got the hood open (once again using Pete's DIY instructions on how to open the hood) and was worried when I found that the intake tube was not hooked to the air box...removed it to find no issues with mouse nests or anything. plopped a battery in it, put a key tumbler, and turned everything on...again, pleasantly surprised to find that everything works, and no mouse smell comes out of the heater. after the pics of the floor upload, I'm going to get her running. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

the 3800 swap is just as hard as the 4.3 swap, but with less viable (strong enough) transmission options. it's in no way shape or form a direct bolt-in like the 3.4 is.

3.4 swap = cost of motor and gaskets to swap, plus custom wiring if you choose to go with the EFI system on the 3.4 (VERY worthwhile IMHO) 4.3 swap = custom motor mounts, different trans, different transfercse, new driveshafts, custom wiring (or painless wiring kit), custom exhaust, custom cooling system. question is, do you want to blow tons of time and money, or a small amount of money and time? I would ditch the 4.3 idea. 4.3's are not very well designed in my experience, and you'd be better off getting the extra 2 cylinders of a 350 for the fact that the mounts and everything are literally identical.

:D just figured out that this one is removable :D

well, the seats are out, carpet is out. I'm VERY impressed with the floor...it's ridiculously nice. I'll post pics when I'm done...now I need to run to my garage, pick up a battery, my shop vac, an extension cord, and a couple empty cans of gas plus a new can so I can drain the tank and put good gas in it. I'm going to bolt the bellhousing to the motor with the CPS before I even think about putting the trans in....if it won't run, it's getting a different motor.

nah, I don't have anything caged. I've just delt with enough cages to know what needs to be done to make them right. I'm not trying to bust balls, just giving you an honest answer.

remove your rear hatch "door" panel. on the left side of the hatch (driver's side, there is a black single pin female wire, and a blue 2 wire single pin wire. if they are plugged together, you have power to ground...that can and will cause your issues. unplug them.

yupyup. I claim the first set of tan limited seats....my vinyl dying failed, and I need the interior of the 87 to look good.

The clocksprings are different. Trust me, I've replaced dozens of them. Also, the 97/98 buttons use different resistance than the 99-01. If you want to install cruise in a 99 you need 99-01 buttons. All actuators/servos are the same electrically, but the plug changed in 97. You can use a acuator from a 92 for example, if you splice in the correct plug to your 97+ wiring, the number of wires, order and the color is the same, so it should be easy if you cannot grab a newer one. my idea of "easy" does not include replacing a clockspring. I can do it, but I don't enjoy it.

I picked this up a week ago for $250. 90 eliminator 4x4 4.0 5 speed (ax15) np231 d35 rear, 30 front. tonneau cover (cover is ripped, frame and ribs are intact) drop-in bedliner split rear window dealer install sunroof cruise tilt buckets w/ center console (original MJ parts) the transmission is in the back of the truck, because the slave cyl and clutch were bad. I have a clutch but will buy a new slave as well as master cylinder. Unfortunately, the owner lost the keys, so I had to remove the key tumbler just to get it home...I'll be replacing all of the keys with chrysler era for just a single key system. basically, it needs a complete cleaning...seats and carpet and interior removed, vacuum it all out as I'm sure it does have mice in it, and get to work on the rest of it. I'll be putting an np242 in it, since it will be a DD. the rockers and cab corners are gone, but the floors are pretty much perfect. it needs one window in the slider because that's broke, and the bed is rusty above the wheel wells so it will need some attention too. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

I seriously doubt that the clocking spring is different. there would be no point in that being a different part between cruise and non-cruise.

it is best to use poly+poly or stock+ stock when it comes to combining motor mounts and trans mounts. If you're going poly with the trans mount, use poly motor mounts. I don't like poly...engine torsion is transferred directly through the unirails.

So mine look's "normal"? negative. that mount is collapsing. order a new one specific to your transmission (and verify that your transmission is specific to that crossmember...that is an ax15 crossmember). correy, that does NOT sit on the crossmember. that would defeat the purpose of the rubber mount.

superwade ^ Has given pat a suggestion that he has responded to.

looks like the wrong mount for that crossmember...the exhaust hangar mount shouldn't be contacting the crossmember.