watchamakalit

Hmmmmmm looks like I might make a trip to the junkyard....

The 904 is stout as hell I have one in my CJ and it has put up with tons of abuse from a built 4.2L. And they used the 904 in the early YJ's behind the 4.0 with a 231 behind them. I am not arguing the AW4 is stronger but the 904 is no wimp. I thought you had to swap the entire underhood harness to do the AW4 swap? :???:

Anybody ever swap in a TF904? I know alot of people want an auto in there trucks but don't want to deal with the hassle and work involved in an aw4 swap so why not the 904? Am I missing something other than the fact that it won't have an overdrive? I belive one out of a early 90's YJ should swap right in behind the 4.0l and still allow use of the 231 correct?

Looks good so far but you will probably need more supports from the lower mount to the frame further back. Most of the stress incured in plowing is rearward on the vehicle. Other wise it looks good. Now build me a duplicate. :rotfl2:

I belive it is a block heater that fits in the freeze plug location. Allowing him to plug in the heater in the winter and come out to a warm truck in the morning.

Well there hasn't been alot of progress lately but last night I managed to get the 2" spacers and the chevy drop shackles installed. I am very happy so far rides and drives just like factory and looks much better. Pics to come.....

I have removed mine up front and will be doing the rears soon. I just see them as another place for salt and road grime to get caught in and cause that four letter word.

The "hard plastic looking thing" is a spacer. Looks to be 2". I would look for a set of 6" or 6.5" springs and put them in and see where your at.

See below for the olde pharte translations. (the translations are in red) :rotf:

I agree 100%. x3

:agree: Sign me up. Sounds like someone needs to do a writeup.....

That ones mine. :cheers: It is a simple bolt on procedure except you need to make a way to bolt it to the fenders if you don't change them. I just bent up some little brackets on each side. I also had to switch the headlight buckets from side to side due to the adjusters and spring anchors being opposite on the 97+ header panel.

I cut mine to go with the 97+ clip. I prefer the cut look. I don't really like the factory valance across the bottom of the bumper.

OOH, one more thing, TRUE DW dosent "smooth out" Its a white knuckle, piss you pants, NEVER want to have happen again experience. That isnt over untill you have come to a complete stop and gotten out to check if all of you MJ is still bolted together. :yes: :eek: CW Those 2 statements say it all. Granted maybe its not as bad in a MJ but I had a case of true DW in my CJ about a year ago and let me tell you the last thing on your mind is accelerating. If you truly have DW you cannot steer the vehicle the wheel will shake violently enough to break you arms before you can stop it. The only way to stop true DW once it is in action is to stop the vehicle. That being said I belive you have a shimmy in the front end, not DW, if that is the case go get your tires balanced and rotated. Should cure it. If that don't do it start looking at loose front end components. If you know you have issues in the front end you need to fix them DW or not. Loose front end parts are worn front end parts and worn front end parts mean it could be my kids in the on coming car you hit when those front end parts break and you can't control you vehicle. Sorry if I come across as being a fool but IMHO there are 2 things on vehicles that should NEVER be ignored one is steering and the other is breaks. You are posing a risk to everyone on the road by doing so. And I prefer to be the only one who can gamble with my life. Watch"they call me captain safety"amakalit

I don't really have a dream job. I do have a dream though. I wanna be a mountain hermit. So I guess my dream job is what I have now. I am 3rd generation owner of the family furniture store. I plan to work my butt off for the next 20yrs growing the biz and hopefully sell it off to my daughter so I can retire at an early age to the appalachians and spend my days living completely of the land with my CJ, MJ, my chainsaws, a good axe and my wood stove.

I too have 97+ door seals I robbed from a wrecked one at the JY and I have the same comments as everyone. Doors close harder than before but not abnormally hard. Its like my truck is a much newer and the door seals actually work kinda hard. You will not regret the upgrade. Especially since most junkyards don't consider weatherstriping a valuable part. :cheers:

a couple of people around here have done it, and their posts helped a lot. Even then i still made a bunch of mistakes along the way...i thought i bought door wiring from a '96XJ from a member on here that isn't around anymore. Turns out everything was from an '89XJ (totally different connectors) and one of the regulators wasn't good. Lessons learned: get an FSM before tacking big projects and use as much wiring from the same year as your MJ as you can. I also carried a small project battery to the jy so i could test the window regulators before i pulled them. Also helped to be able to move up and down while pulling the wiring and regulators. And i've been lucky so far, the only electrical gremlin to pop up was a bad alarm the PO installed, it would go off randomly and drain the battery. Do you still have the 89 wiring harness? I am in need of a pre 91 harness (I think thats when the connectors changed) I have a post 91 harness I would be willing to trade. Just for clarification I need the harness that goes from door to door.

I love to cut firewood I love the appalachian mountains (Gonna be a hermit when I retire) I am 3rd generation owner of the family furniture store I got married at 19 (almost made it 10 yrs before the pending divorce) If it has a motor I love it

Whats the color selection for the Hoodies?

That would be cool, but you would be talking about and expensive hoodie to do that unless you were to make a large quantity of them like 100 or more. Probably run near $30... :ack: We are trying to keep whatever we make at or below the $20 mark for sweats & long sleeve. The short sleeve stuff we would like to keep them under $15. Yeah but it would be cool. :smart:

That's what I was thinking, but you know...the tan logo would probably still look good on the black too... :idea: I like the way you think. Would be something a little different. What about doing a big comancheclub.com up the left sleeve so you can pimp it out the window while you roll in your fly ride.

Depending on price I am definatley game for at least one of each. Hoodies could even be something simple like a black hoodie with white letters...

Please excuse me while I go clean up. when do we get to order?

I don't care just make some shirts.

Well not much getting done here got some new tires but haven't got pics of it with them on yet. Ran it up the RTI ramp at O'Daniels Jeep jam did pretty good for a 2wd stocker. :brows: