Minuit

:bowdown:

I don't know, Don. You planning on tearing the whole thing apart for a repaint? This just doesn't seem up to your standard I've been talking to the guy Ben. According to him he purchased the truck in Orlando two years ago. The owner before him in CO, the PPO if you will, painted it blue. It was originally yellow. There is no tailgate for some reason. The current owner bought it for Lowes runs, but now has another truck, so he's selling it. Odometer doesn't work so the original mileage - :dunno:. So I don't know if I'll go look now. Looking for something a bit more original. Nope nope nope nope.

Yep. Very VERY easy to mix them up. I always lay the pads on the floor in the position they came from (until I kick them and they get switched around of course)

I might try that if they don't improve after a while. They do seem to be softening up a little bit. The doors actually close now, so that's an improvement. Quality's not horrible but I probably would be better off with Mopar ones. I wasn't going to pay $148 per side at the stealership. Probably should've tried a junkyard set. Didn't think about that. The doors line up pretty good but not 100% perfect. Like I said, will give it a few more slams and see what happens.

I did get it to close once, with the window all the way down. Had to pull it closed extremely hard from inside. When I opened it again the door sprang back almost to the stops. Is that just what I need to do to close the doors for a while? I don't care to treat my truck that way. Nothing I'm doing seems to make the seal fit tighter around the curved spots.

Yep, that's what friends are for, and/or membership in a local clubs. I wouldn't let someone I don't know touch my MJ or even come to my house. THIS. I'm the only one who touches, drives, washes, or wrenches on my truck anymore. The last time someone other than me worked on it my engine block got a little bit lighter.

So, my 97+ door seals finally arrived today. I go out to install them, and when I'm done (taking care to push them in as far as they'll go, with a hammer for extra persuasion) the door refuses to close: They really don't seem to be fitting too well on the curved parts of the door jamb. It seems like they should be able to slide over the seam a little bit more, but no amount of persuasion will make them go. \\ Any suggestions on what I should do? I spent a pretty penny on these things, so I'm not giving up just yet. I know a couple people on here have installed the 97+ seals, did you guys have to go through this too?

Assembly lube (or Vaseline as it happens) is better than oil for priming. Oh well, you've already got it back together.

Make VERY sure you replace the slave cylinder (and with a quality part) on the AX-15 before you install it. If it dies on you later on you'll have to remove the trans again to replace it. Just making sure - you did/will prime the new oil pump, correct?

Alright, so the bumper seals are installed. I went ahead and stuck 'em on even though I don't have my new door seals yet. Unless you're insanely picky, I'd say avoid. There is a very slight decrease in wind noise from the sides, but other than that, not much to say. The quality on them wasn't very good either, some of the adhesive came off the foam when I pulled the protective film off. I could see them making a bigger difference if the rest of my interior was sound deadened (which I plan to do in the future). On a stock truck, not enough of a difference to be worth it.

lol... Team Cherokee did me the great favor of splitting my order without giving me any indication of it and without giving me a tracking number for the second box, so my door seals may or may not be here some time this year. This will be the last time I order anything from this company. Previously I've had good luck with them, but this has pissed me off just a little bit. I made the order on 7/22 (including these A-"piller" seals, a blower motor gasket, and 2 97+ door seals) and it did not ship until 7/27. The door seals on my truck are basically destroyed, so I will wait to install the A-"piller" seals until I can fix that. Probably will be easier to tell a difference then.

Factory Service Manuals. Also on a CD.

"like new" :laughin:

Basically, you'll need to find these things to have the "full" swap: - Headliner - Carpet - Seats if you want them to fold forward (you do) - Rear cab trim (both the plastic and carpet parts) - B pillar trim - Lower door opening trim - '94 or earlier steering column and wheel - Possibly the A pillar trim. I don't remember if these are the same or not. Everything else will swap from the XJ with little to no work. I strongly suggest taking the VIN tag from your dash and putting it on the new dash.

You will not be able to easily swap the donor's drivetrain into your '86 for a number of reasons. The 2wd transmission is 2wd specific unless you feel like disassembling the whole thing and swapping parts in from a 4wd transmission (and it will have the BA-10, not worth it anyway). Your transfer case will be different also (you either have an NP207 or NP228 - the correct TC for the donor would be an NP231). It would be a lot of work.

:agree:

Definitely looks like it's for wind noise. I'm also going to be running the 97+ door seals. Will report the differences (if any) in detail once it gets here.

Do your hazards work? If not, look for a single wire plug near your battery. That controls the brake lights and hazards. Easy to unplug by accident.

Yep. Any 96 or older 4 door door will fit without any changes. 97 and newer will with some modification.

On a 2WD (mine at least) you can clear the axle with the oil pan. Not exactly easy or fun, but possible.

:banana:

When I lived in the dorms at school there was always one of those locked up by my building. Still not sure how I feel about it...

I do this too. Even though any other vehicle I'm likely to drive has way more room. The MJ just fits me well, I guess? I drove it for almost 4 hours straight last week and wasn't uncomfortable at all. :dunno: That worn out bench seat is more comfortable than you'd think.

Coming from someone who just did a rear main seal job with everything in place, it would be much easier to get the oil pan off without the transmission in the way. I agree with Pete. Now's your chance to do an AX-15 swap. If you stick with the BA-10 and it fails again 10,000 miles down the road you would have wished you would have done the swap now. You're already halfway done with an upgrade, why stop now? Grabbing a good condition AX-15 (from the junkyard if possible) should cost less than rebuilding the BA-10. Even if the hypothetical junkyard AX-15 needs a rebuild, you'll still be better off. I'm sure parts for the AX-15 are much cheaper and easier to find than parts for the puke-box.