shelbyluvv

Track bar not centered right or you need an alignment after the lift.

Did you read the thread in link?

Let me see if I can find a bench out here in the yard. If so then I would only need the covers. I am still leaning towards doing a maroon interior. I have all my black stuff minus the dash and bench.

Thanks for looking out for me brother. I got a header today. Now I need to find the chrome strip that is in good shape. The one I got was dinged but it was $10 so that's cool I guess. Now if you can get me that black dash I would be in heaven!

I need that dash!

Let me get the black vinyl bench you are hoarding!

Don, that is Jeremy's truck. Smartazz19 from Georgia. He is a damn good guy too. PS: Ryan, I have a new in the box black rear bumper kit. I like chrome...

The rear gap is supposed to be larger than the front. The front should be around a 1/4 or so. The rear is more like a 1/2 inch. This is to allow the hood to clear the wiper cowl. That is why that big piece of rubber is there along the cowl and the hood to close the gap.

Your front axle is a Dana 30. The Dana 35C is a rear axle in a MJ or XJ. The Ranger came with a Dana 35 front center section in the TTB design.

Your SRT looked great! Good work Ryan. I and an Intense Blue Dakota and it was a cool color.

I won't be attending.

Patriot Blue or my next favorite color is Inferno Red. Inferno is like Chili Pepper Red but has more pearl and is gorgeous when it is clean.

If you can find me a 4 door, V8 powered, 97+ converted, lifted, and painted MJ for $10K, I will buy everyone you find! Not going to happen! No Bo, it's not. :P Besides what Sir Brando said about the seats and reflections, the top of the rear door looks wider than the bottom. Oh yeah, that is my bad chop with MS paint!

I actually took another look at your build before I sunk the winch into the cross member. I couldn't really tell from the pictures, but did you just run a chunk of steel from the bottom to each frame rail? How did you decide what the best way to reinforce the frame would be? As you can see I added some bracing behind the cross remaining member. Is that even necessary with the winch plate tying both frame rails together? To access the clutch lever, with either design really, I had planned on using some sort of detachable T-handle. One design I came across used an old socket welded to year cut lever. Then he used an old extension with a handle attched to the top. When its time to flip the clutch lever he pulls out the extension T-handle and clips the extension into the socket which was welded to the clutch lever. It seemed like a very clean and effective way to go about it. It might still be a challenge with the winch almost completely under the radiator. I took a long look at the front of the ZJ donor. It has the front end opend up just like mine is now. The ZJ has a more robust top rad mount as well. Used that to base my designs off of. I like the T-handle idea as well for the free spool.

Nope, don't like the new version. Not one bit. I am a bit biased though. I already cut my front cross member out for a radiator to fit there. Both designs look great! The only thing that has me wondering is, How will you flip the lever to free spool with the winch sucked back that far on version 2.0?

Your grill is on wrong.

All of them will bolt in. But, the TJ will be a LP30 and the ZJ will be a LP30 with CV axles.

I'll build you one with a 97+ interior and a 360 Magnum for $15,000. Johnny is this a real one? :wavey:

Thanks for the tip Rob. :cheers:

Welcome back Paul! Glad to see you are doing ok my friend. If the 92 sender was for a 23 gallon tank I would like to call dibs on it. Get cracking on the MJ. I need some inspiration!

I thought I was the only Kennedy on here. Welcome Jim Robert (Bo) Kennedy III

I know Pong is. I am not too sure about the other one.

I have used http://www.uship.com/vehicles/ in the past to ship a Vette from GA to MD. It only cost me $350 to have it done.

The Gen I kit had a weld on lower arm bracket. It got welded on right by the drivers side lower shock mount. The bracket would rip the shock and control arm mount off. I had the very first RK LA Gen I and Gen II kits sold to the public. The "Krawler joint" in the axle UCA mount on the drivers side is my design. If you got a complete kit you would have had to beat the stock drivers side UCA bushing out and replace it with a a ball type joint that has 4 little Allen head screws holding it in. The first version only had 2 Allens and the joint kept failing. Their kits also used to come with "Revolver" style shackles. Atfer they unloaded on me in a panic stop we, (Jeremy and I) came up with their new "boom-a-rang" style shackle for the XJ. I have been involved with Jeremy and Heather at Rockkrawler since they took over the business. They even took me to SEMA with them a few years ago. Good people and they have really turned that company around.

Thanks for up dating it. Your truck looks great! The RK LAs are Gen II not Gen I. You might need that info if you ever have to call them with a problem.