johnj92131

The simple thing is to use gasoline to rinse out the diesel residue. Put the diesel/gasoline mix into the fuel tank of what ever car you use the most. Then just drive the car like normal. Burn it all up. So little diesel left in so much gasoline, it will not matter one bit.

You Can NOT use a drill to change the odometer reading on the 91+. REASON? It is electronic - not cable driven! Want to change th 91+ odometer reading? See the link in post # 9 of this thread. How can you tell a 91+ from the earlier instrument cluster from 10 yards? Look at the color of the plastic case. White = 1991+ Blue = EARLY

You are driving a 25 year old car. Lots of things will need attention. It is just a fact that all the owners before you were only doing what they could to get by. That is why it is a used car.

I got a good pair of doors with electric window, door locks from a 4 door Laredo with the interior door panels for $200. Took a weekend trip to Phoenix to get them. Had the body shop put the doors on before they painted the truck. Then I just hunted for a 2 door Cherokee for the drivers side control switches. Took a little while but only paid $10-15 for it. I sure would not pay very much for just the switches.

Could have been an aftermarket addition on the windows and locks. But, cruise on the diesel? Rare indeed. Don't remember if Rob's diesel came with the factory window sticker or not. But imagine Rob has a factory build sheet.

Non traditional engine? Look at the 2004 Isuzu Rodoe 3.5 V6. Gasoline Direct Inection, 250 hp.@ 5600 rpm, 246lb/ft at 3000 rpm. Aluminum block and Heads, 10.3 compression runs on 87 oct. gas. Engine weight is about 450 lbs. Best of all the automatic transmission is our own AW4. Does the transfer case line up for the Jeep? Don't know. Guess I should look at my 4X4 Rodeo and my sister-in-laws 4X4 XJ. The enine is close to bullet proof, good low end torque and a 6200 rpm. Much better 4 valve head than the non crossflow 2 valve Jeep head.

thanks and when ya aint sick as a dog do take pictures of the factory ones, i don't be puttin hooks on for a while so i've thought bout the hitch but i can't find one under 300 round here, Redwolf 2 minutes with Google and $143. Like the old song says "You gotta shop around" More looking and patience will save you some more. http://www.etrailer.com/fmr-1992_Jeep_Cherokee.htm

Just a stupid question. Why not use a front mounted hitch? My DrawTite his has welded on brackets from the factory. Think the hitch was about $75 If I remember correctly, there are 6 bolts holding the hitch on.

These are short engines, so length should not be an issue. Now, being V engines, the width might be where your problems come in. Also, the Buick V6 should be lighter than the Chevy V6. And don't forget there was a 4.1 version block of the Buick V6. Eary 80's Also a number of books published on the Buick V6 power upgrades. Not sure if you can get any aluminum Chevy V6 blocks or heads. That would be nice. As would a T5/6 trans from a Camaro.

Pantex? http://www.pantex.com/mission/Pages/default.aspx

Suspect the answer can be found on one or more Cherokee forums. Just a lot more of them than there is of us. Have not searched myself.

I actually purchased a new Mazda RX3 with the rotary engine in 1974. The car went like a bat out of hell for the time. Turned 7K rpm in a flash. Mazda also sold a rotary powered minitruck that was a real hot rod in it's time. The engine was smooth and powerful. Also suffered from some issue that lead to short life. Later versions of the rotary supposedly cured the endurance issues. But lack of low end torque was never really solved, even with the very latest RX7/8. I like the KISS principle. That tells me to stick with the Jeep inline 6. The factory solved all kinds of problems to deliver a power plant that lasts for years under all kinds of conditions. That covers both the 4.0 and the stroker versions of the stock 6. Next keeping with the KISS principle, I would look at the aluminum block, aluminum head Chevrolet V8 engine and a GM transmission (6 speed automatic). Close to 100 lbs. lighter than the Jeep 6, just as good or better mpg and so much smooth torque over a very wide band. Yes, you are going to put effort into the cooling problem. (Remember, this is not a factory solution). But lots of support and people who have been there, done that - some good, some bad. Also, considerably more $$ that the 4.0/4.5/6. No matter what you do, you still have a 25+ year old truck. Keep that in mind also. I keep mine because it is relatively cheap to keep for what I do with it.

Guess this is a stupid question on my part. But why not just keep it under the truck in the factor location? Should be a simpler solution that keeps the tire out of plain sight and is less of a temptation to sticky fingers. If it is wheeling that makes you want to put it in the bed - move it to the bed on the weekend. I like the KISS principle. If the tire winch is broken, there are DIY articles telling you how to fix it. (One day, I will fix my tire winch).

Not much room to take off there.

There is MUCH more to life than just the Comanche truck!! Saw a 1954 DeSoto Station Wagon when I went to the store Friday. Spoke with the owner. Car looked not bad, had a DeSoto Hemi engine (smaller than the 331). Also had a variation of the old Fluid Drive transmission with the automatic clutch.

Since you were looking at spending $1745 (plus $350 core charge) for a rebuilt 4.0 from Titan and then want to rebuild your core engine to a 4.6 stroker, why not just get the Titan Stroker for $2899 the first time and give them your old engine to save the $350 core charge? I know money is tight, but for $800 you just plug in the rebuilt stroker and you are done with it. No eating the core charge, no pulling the engine again to do a stroker. You might also do some research on the stroker board to see what those fellows say about different engine builders. More stroker users there than on the ComancheClub.

Nonsense!! That is why we carry liability insurance. Both on each car, and an umbrella personal liability policy. Insurance as liability only works if the guy who hit you even has it. A lot of limp along car drivers don't have insurance, whether required or not Liability insurance covers you when the other guy or some third party attempts to sue you for damages and pays for damages up to the policy limit. My personal liability umbrella policy covers me after that up to the limit of that policy. My liability insurance does not cover damage to my car or personal property. Now if the guy who hits you was in the wrong and has no insurance, then you are out of luck. But if you are worried about him suing you, then your liability policy will cover you from that. Make sense??

I have had a white car or truck for the last 30 years, so what do I know, right? I have also had other cars that were not white for that same 30 years. And my Comanche is also a white base truck. Driving in Southern California, there is no shortage of idiots on the roads. Can not say I have noticed more people pulling in front of me when I am driving a white vehicle than a different color,

Nonsense!! That is why we carry liability insurance. Both on each car, and an umbrella personal liability policy.

The tools was used (abused?) in a way it was not designed to be used. If the socket was from the same tool set and did not break, that speaks to decent tool quality. Frankly, an I beam would be a stronger shape for a breaker bar than the round bar shape used. The amazing thing to me is that the frozen nut is still frozen and did not snap with a 4 ft. breaker bar.

OK! We got to share!

Your trailer started swaying because you did not have the trailer loaded properly. You had too much weight on the tail of your trailer and were light on the nose of the trailer. That is why it started swaying. And you did DAMN good to get it back under control! You need to have about 10% of the total trailer weight on the tongue as tongue weight. So if you are towing 4000 lbs, you need a tongue weight of about 400 or 500 lbs. Your boat trailer tows straight it is properly loaded. "I leave plenty of room in front of me." VERY Best advice when towing anything!!

You must not be married or looking to get divorced and cleaned out!!!

You did not say how many others are going with you. I am thinking there will be one or two vehicles and the company is not providing a truck? Personally, you should take the Grand Cherokee and tow a trailer for your supplies. You said the Grand Cherokee is dead reliable so you can ditch several hundred pounds of spares and tools "just in case".

Likely the For Sale section would get a better response. also, those seat brackets may be the most valuable part of the bucket seats and easier to ship.