johnj92131

How about trying to replace the transmission controller as a first step? Is it or was it a column shifted automatic?

Those are good websites. Lots of excellent jeep information there for the non supercharged jeep. Has anyone here used their supercharger kits?

He will either sell it or not. (I suspect not) I don't want a roll bar, so the price doesn't matter to me. You see this quit a bit on Craigslist. Sellers looking for a desperate buyer who will pay a sky high price. Often wonder how much actually sells and how much just gets junked.

I recently put a Grand Cherokee seat in place of the MJ bucket seat without doing any welding. Send me you email address and I will send you some pictures of how I did it. I need to do a proper writeup and post it to the DIY section. This will get me off the stick. I got everything I needed at the Home Depot, so it is not too difficult - just time consuming. If you are a decent welder, then it may be quicker to cut out the brackets from a 95+ Cherokee. I really don't know. I expect my second seat to go much faster because I have worked out just what I need.

Just a few hours of searching I found this article on converting a FWD 3100/3400/3500 to RWD in an MGB. Just for what ever it is worth. I am sure there is more good information out there. http://www.britishcarconversions.com/faqs-mainmenu-25/62-3100-3400 The high value engine will need all this and a bunch of electrical/electronics work in addition,. This same link has a 3900 conversion for the MGB. More on how to convert the FWD V6 to RWD application. From a BMW forum no less. Who would have thought? http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1741842-GM-V6-conversion-q-s

thanks for the info, is this an easily done swap? NO. I will take a whole lot of research. Easily done is the huge advantage of the 3.4 V6. What the high value engine offers is a much more modern version of the original 2.8 V6 family. But modern engines have become much more complicated. Nothing interchanges from the original 265 cubic inch Chevrolet V8 from 1955 to today's Small Block Chevy. It is not that bad with the V6. The 3900 v6 has been swapped into some Pontiac Fieros and they went out of production in 1988. So the Fiero dated to the same time period as the Comanche, it just had a little longer run.

You should also look at the GM High Value engine. It is more than 20 years newer version than the 2.8 V6 with all kinds of improvements. The biggest version of this V6 is 3.9 litres (237 cubic inches). It has 90% of max torque available between 1500 rpm and 5500 rpm. Great for a truck. Offers variable valve timing, fuel can be anything from RUG to E85. And it offered Active Fuel Management for improved highway mpg. About the only thing missing is direct injection. Here is a quick link: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GM_High_Value_engine

^ Those are very wise words. Here is a link to some good information on the 3.4 V6 engine: http://www.ls1.com/forums/f68/some-insight-into-3-4l-ohv-motor-4706/ Stay with the V6 and use the latest stuff GM put 15 more years of engineering time into and built the factory parts required. In the end, you will have a much more interesting truck than just the common 4.0 swap into an 86. And that 3.4 V6 modified to 99 specs will run so much better than the 85/86 2.8 V6.

Why not order a set of forged pistons from www.Bulltear.com? They will sell you any compression you want. They are a small AMC supplier who deserves support of the jeep community. Another option is to look for a stroker crank. Archer brothers used one if I recall correctly. Or do an offset grind of your current crank and custom pistons (from BullTear).

81Chero: You are a newbie, so you are forgiven. BUT, you have posted the same question in 3 different areas in just a few minutes - not good form. One area will usually get you multiple answers, but you need to give us some time. OK? See the answers in the Tech forum.

Link to the Redline kit: http://www.redlinetuning.com/QL-JEEP-CHER-8601.html $69.95 for the base kit is hard to beat.

Petroleum Jelly should not do any harm and will help hold the O ring in place (I think).

Dakota bench 40/20/40 seat in a Comanche here: http://comancheclub.com/topic/42200-dakota-seats/?hl=dakota+seat More information here: http://comancheclub....-seat-brackets/ Ranger seats in a Comanche: http://comancheclub.com/topic/34228-ranger-6040-bench-seat-installed/?hl=dakota+seat&do=findComment&comment=343846 More information on Dakota seats: http://comancheclub.com/topic/28848-anybody-ever-use-a-bench-out-of-another-truck/?hl=dakota%20seat Lastly, all my search results here: http://comancheclub.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=search&fromMainBar=1

Speed makes a big difference in mpg. If I run at 75+ mph, then 16-19 mpg is reasonable. Keep it to 55/60 and I can hit 23+mpg. But who can drive 55 mph on an interstate? But, I did not get the truck for fuel economy. When I want an economical trip, I take the Passat TDI and plan on 45-50 mpg. Even the Camry will get 30+ on a road trip, 32 at 70/75 and upwards of 37 mpg at slower speeds.

This seller offers a nice set of options! I like it.

Looks like he wants $15 for the pair and $6 for shipping. That $6 for shipping is just about what I paid to ship a pair of drip rails a couple of years ago. Put them in 1.5 inch PVP pipe, taped the heck out off both ends, then took them to the post office.

Just buy a new replacement tank. Ebay has any number of new replacement tanks with prices all over the place. But do save your old tank and everything in or on it till you get the new tank working. Finding a gas tank in a salvage yard will take you a while. Finding a good one will take even longer. BUT, you can give the new gasket a try while you look for that new replacement. Alternatively, you may want to look at the 22 gal. Dakota plastic gas tank as a replacement. Think it can be made to work on the short bed. Here is the link to the Dakota plastic gas tank: http://comancheclub.com/topic/30755-dakota-22-gallon-tank-and-fuel-pump/page-2?hl=dakota&do=findComment&comment=369352

My truck was owned by a guy who did drywall for a living. The truck has a factory installed "MetricTon/BigTon" package, he installed 2 (yes, two) overload springs on each side and installed a set of air shocks for extra measure. Now the air shocks are gone but I have personally put a pallet of 60 54 pound blocks in the truck and taken them home. That is something like 3300 lbs of cargo, Other times I have put 2800 plus pounds in the bed. My suggestion: Install the MetricTon springs from Hells Creek and a set of air shocks or air bags. The air shocks/air bags will let you adjust the rear end level, if you ever need to. Lastly, make sure your rear tires are up to the load and properly inflated.

152 hours of labor @ $60/hr? What if you worked faster? :P $40 an hour. I am cheap. :P 228 estimated hours. How about I hire you to work on my truck? Gladly pay you $40. I am cheap also!!

A duel has rules. Each participant is permitted a single shot at the same time. Google "Aaron Burr vs. Alexander Hamilton" Aaron Burr was the Vice President of the U.S. Alexander Hamilton was the 1st U.S. Secretary of the Treasury and his likeness is on the $10 bill. BTW, sound and performance are 2 different things. But who can forget the sound of a Jaguar XK-E? Now that was sound, high performance, and still very sexy looks.

Had my Comanche for 8 years in February. Paid $1150 for it just so I could stop using the SUV for hauling trash, junk, etc. When it was sideswiped 4 years ago, I counted $5K I had put into the truck. I spent around $3500 more to fix the damage and repaint the truck. About 3 years ago, the truck was stolen in TJ and recovered. I spent another $2k fixing the damage. That is just the big stuff I can remember right now. Doesn't count the 6 or 8 sets of bucket seats I have purchased, nor the tons of other parts I have in the garage, like extra tailgates and several spare engines (just because). I can easily see spending another 6K on the truck in 2015 Now, I did price a replacement, new basic work truck, just December 26, 2014. Least expensive new 2014 Chevy 1500 would be $24700 for a single cab long box. Could bet a double cab 2014 long box for $25,250. Tax and registratilon is extra. The new truck would do exactly the same thing the Comanche does, sit on the street/driveway most of the time. Would drive less than 5000 miles per year. So to answer the question of how much I have spent on the Comanche: Something less than $25K

No more let room with the buckets. Seat backs seem to go back further and not sit up as straight. Back on the 2 door buckets has a lot of "slop" in them. Had 4 or 5 different sets of 2 door buckets and they all had the same issue. You put your hand on the seat back and it can be moved for and aft by 2 or 3 inches. Long about 1995 Jeep changed the way the Cherokee seats fold forward and solved that problem.

You may want to read this article by David Vizard: http://www.hotrod.com/events/coverage/0311em-power-squeeze/ Good information about minimizing detonation, quench,combustion chamber shape, flame propagation. All areas that can be improved upon considerably by a more modern combustion chamber shape. Is it going to be a better head than the Hesco aluminum head? Could be, time will tell. Certainly will be a better price and likely has more engineering time in the combustion chamber design. The Jeep 4.0 head (combustion chamber) does not react well higher compression ratios without going to premium fuel quickly. Hence the stock 8.8:1 compression for 87 octane fuel. Boost the compression to 9.3 and you need mid-grade or more. So, does anyone want to buy my Hesco head??

Don't take it personally. Although the members on here are generally a really great group of guys (and gals) I have noticed they are the penny pinchiest, tight wadiest, misers I've had the privilege of associating with. We all would benefit from higher value of our trucks, so good luck with the sale. JeepMech, Above is 100% true! I am not in the market, but can tell all the cheapies, the very best truck to buy is one in good condition when you start. It is really expensive to take a mediocer vehicle and bring it up to nice standards.. Also, for a better price and wider exposure. You may want to look at Ebay. Some of the cars for sale there are presented extreemly well. And they sell for some nice coin. But you have to do some sales work. Good luck with the sale.

Hesco head tooling needs to be replaced according to Hesco. Because of the cost, not going to happen, per Bernie 3 months ago. There is a current, long thread on the Edelbrock head at: http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4638 On page 6 and 7 there are some interesting posts about combustion chamber shape, quench, and squish.