BLHTAZ

If you want to download the complete Renix FSM, I posted it in the DIY forum here... viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12517 Here is a snip from the FSM on how to test the TPS so you can double check that it matches what you are looking at / doing... THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) 1) Turn ignition on. Check throttle position sensor input voltage. Connect voltmeter negative lead to terminal "B" (M/T), or terminal "D" (A/T) of sensor connector. Connect voltmeter positive lead to terminal "C" (M/T), or terminal "A" (A/T) of sensor connector. NOTE: On (A/T) models, connector terminals are identified by letters molded into back of connector. On all models, do not disconnect TPS harness connector. Insert voltmeter test leads through back of wire harness connector. On some models, it may be necessary to remove throttle body from intake manifold to gain access to sensor wire harness. 2) Move and hold throttle plate at wide open throttle position (M/T), or close throttle plate completely (A/T). Ensure throttle linkage contacts stop. Note voltmeter reading. Input voltage at terminals "B" and "C" (M/T), or terminals "A" and "D" (A/T) should be 5 volts. 3) Return throttle plate to closed throttle position (M/T), or maintain throttle plate in closed position (A/T). Check sensor output voltage. To do so, disconnect voltmeter positive lead from terminal "C" and connect it to terminal "A" (top) of sensor (M/T), or from terminal "A" and connect it to terminal "B" (A/T). 4) Move and hold throttle plate in wide open throttle position (M/T), or maintain throttle plate in closed position (A/T). Ensure throttle linkage contacts stop. Note voltmeter reading. Output voltage should be 4.6-4.7 volts (M/T), or .2 volt (A/T). 5) If output voltage is incorrect, loosen bottom sensor retaining screw and pivot sensor in adjustment slot for a coarse adjustment. Loosen top sensor retaining

If you are comfotable with the fact that you are doing the test properly, then it sounds like a bad TPS to me. Just double check everything and be sure that you are connected to the proper positions when testing. When you say "my book"...is it a FSM?

Right now it's looking like probably December 7th will be the end of ordering. It will take me a couple days to sort out all the different orders and get the shirts. Then it will take about 10-14 days for printing. I figure on that schedule, they should all be done, packed & in the mail no later than Dec. 23rd - 24th meaning that most everyone will get them around the 30th depending on exactly how the Christmas slow down / stoppage affects it. All of this is tentative, so please DO NOT take it as gospel...but, it should be close :cheers: This also means that I need to have all payments submitted and in my hands by December 6th. If you are mailing a money order, it should be in the mail no later than Dec. 2nd ;) .

X2 :agree:

I have been a member of DTO since 6/03, but I only have 36 posts over there.

Yeah, it sounds like either the battery is to weak to start it or the cables are in poor condition and will not carry the load to the starter. It is possible that the starter is bad too so it's going to be a process of elimination.

:cheers: Welcome to the Club... The hub conversion is very expensive. Click Here to check out the kit to do it. Plus you will need a new one piece axle shaft for the right side. If the noise is coming from the front, I would be likely to believe that it could be the wheel bearings. ours did then on the YJ when the internal races cracked. They looked good, had no play in them, but they made popping noises in 2WD or 4WD when making turns.

:cheers: Hey man...long time no talk. Yeah...I don't go over "elsewhere" much any more as I had a bit if a disagreement with "management" there. Ya, I have had the MJ now for nearly two years...

Go here and download the FSM that I have linked there... viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12517 It will have all the info you need about that :cheers:

Be different...go Black & Gold...

It should not be a big deal for you as you have all of hte wiring & computer with it so you can just swap all of that over to the MJ. A 350 chevy swap is not much of a power gain over a 4.0L unless it is built or is an LS1 or similar. The 4.0L actually provides more torque and is a tougher more dependable engine. I would spend the money on stroking the 4.0L long before going through the V-8 conversion :idea: . I have just never understood why people think V-8's are such a great thing to do to a Jeep, but to each his own..."It's a Jeep thing" :thumbsup:

No...I meant to just take a leaf from the XJ spring pack and add it to the MJ. I have heard that the main leaf from an XJ with the eye's cut off will give about a 1.5" lift to an MJ, but it's not as stiff riding as if you added an Add-A-Leaf. :cheers:

Yeah...exhaust gasses in a normally aspirated engine can reach 900 degrees and turbos can get to 1400 :eek: . If you can find someone doing the 1000 degree stuff you should be OK. I have never heard that before anad it leaves me to wonder how expensive it is because if it will withstand 1000 degree temps...what does it take to put it on :idea: :???:

Ours finally broke under $2. The Hess station we filled up at on Saturday was $1.96 :D

I didn't realize that I had been here for almost two years now... :chillin:

Yeah...I have noticed that there has been a bit more activity. Seems that a good amount of it happened in the last few days since Pete sent out that mass email about the shirt & stickers. It's like it brought out a lot of lurkers that had registered, but not ever posted. I just checked the member list and it has not seen an influx of new people, still running 2-3 new a day average.

Helluva deal... I'll be watchin' to see where it goes :thumbsup:

\ Well i have to Apologize now.... LOL I just have been on other forums and ppl flame you for asking questions I am glad this forum is awesome and all the ppl here are helpfull No apologies needed. This is what keeps people coming back here...including me :cheers:

We stand at 38 shirts ordered right now. I have a few orders that are not counted in yet that have pending issues I am waiting for responses on.

Powder coat would not take the heat. Ceramic would, but is likely quite expensive to have done.

It definitely sounds vacuum related and an intake leak could do it for sure, but that's a tough one to diagnose. I have heard of a few people finding that they have a loose intake manifold bolt that was allowing a leak that when tightened, the idle problem stopped.

My ground issue was at the end where it attaches to the block on the right rear side. It needs to be there and be in good shape as that point provides the primary ground for the complete electrical system on the truck.

It can be quite difficult if you don't have the right tools and a manual to guide you or someone that has been there/done that ;) I have posted both the FSM and an Electrical manual in the DIY forum if you want to go there and download them. :thumbsup:

I tried a couple aftermarket resources that I know of including Rock Auto, but come up with nothing. You may be left with trying to find a used one that still works. :wall: