BLHTAZ

That is called Caster adjustment which is what Eagle said above ;)It can be accomplished with spacers or a lift kit with adjustable control arms.

If you think you have the problem fixed, just disconnect the negative terminal from the battery and leave it off for a few minutes and it should clear the code.

Key cycle... On - Off - On - Off - On and leave it. The Check Engine light will begin to flash. Flash, Flash ... short pause ... Flash, Flash, Flash, Flash = 24 ...long pause... Flash, Flash, Flash, Flash ... short pause ... Flash, Flash, Flash, Flash, Flash = 45 etc, etc... When you get a 55 = end of cycle

Self threading bolts is what is being used by the guys that are already making them in the retail world.

Sorry, but please do not believe that. A steering stabilizer will NEVER cure death wobble...nor will it cause it. Most (not all) Jeeps with 35" or smaller tires can actually do without a stabilizer and never know the difference...I know this as I have tested it on both leaf sprung and coil sprung Jeeps :cheers:

I tried Firefox for a couple weeks about a month ago and, while it was much faster than IE, there are too many things that just didn't work and I had to keep going back to IE to do so I gave up and deleted it to stay with IE so I don't have to keep jumping back & forth between browsers.

Articulate may not be the best word to describe it? Mine have three positions. Something like this -> Center - Off, Bottom - On, Top - On when door is open. Did yours not have this? nope...they were just fixed lights, nothing moved. Bill...the dremel was just to expand the hole for the new light to fit properly as it was a little bigger than the old one ;)

Chances are your bad alignment screwed the tires up pretty good. Get it aligned, you can try balancing them, but I wouldn't be surprised if you need good ones. Doing the alignment yourself is pretty easy... and free! http://www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html That is only a toe & steering adjustment...not a complete alignment though ;)

In this picture...it appears the zip tie is attached to the track bar... Image Not Found

I say get the alignment done, have the wheels balanced and replace the wobbling tie rod end and see what you have after that. :cheers: As already said...if it smooths out...it's not DW, just a bad vibe ;). If not attended to it could turn in to DW though...

There are no sources left for the factory lights. I have never seen one the does what you are describing with the "articulating" thing... :hmm: Mine were just fixed lights that didn't work anymore. Here's what I did... CLICK HERE

All emails should have a response by now. If you have ordered, but have not received a response with a total and payment information, please let me know ASAP. REMINDER... All orders & payments need to be to me NO LATER than December 6th. If you intend to mail a money order for you shirts, please have it in the mail by December 2nd. Any orders that are not paid for by this time will not be processed.

Hey...that looks cool. I didn't even know that the home page had changed as I have the forums bookmarked and never go through the home page. The only thing that bothers me is that it is not centered. Even with my 22" screen at 1680x1050 resolution and the browser screen fully expanded, I have to scroll to the right to have all the words on the screen... :hmm:

:thumbsup: Oh yeah...it's all in fun :yes: It was nice to seem the Steelers with nearly all of their primary lineup healthy and working better finally. If they can keep all of them healthy, I think we have a shot at a 10 - 6 season or better, but we have the Patriots, Cowboys & Titans 3 out of the next 5 games with the Ravens & Browns being the other two. I think we should beat the Patriots, but the Cowboys & Titans are going to be a ral challenge so I'm hoping for an 11 - 5 record...when I expected about an 9 - 7 season at the start.

We played like Steelers tonight...

Got it...I'll respond to your email with a total in the morning. I'm in to the Steeler game right now

:nanner:

I blew up his pic the best I could. I think you can see a little better now that the zip tie is around the lower radiator hose...you just can't see the LCA because of the draglink in the way.

I went to your album to see if you had one properly sized and found that you do. This is the URL to that picture... http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm111/mccutchancrew/allclean-1-1.jpg Take that and put it in the box that says "Link Off-Site". When you submit changes, you should see the pic as your avatar.

I know that Motion Offroad, JCR Offroad and ProtoFab4x4 are all working on the Long Bed sliders, but I have not seen any others.

I wouldn't trust the guage...get a laser thermometer and check to engine to see what it is really running at. It's just not possible for it to run at 120. I think there is a problem with your guage. If you are not getting heat from the heater, then I would agree with JT that there is likely a flow problem somewhere whether it's in the heater core or not. I don't even have the heater core hooked up in my truck...but the AC works well ;) (it leaks and I don't want to rip the dash out)

I think you are talking about the C101 connector, and yes...sometimes that gets corrosion in it and can cause issues :cheers:

It appears to be the radiator hose that has the zip tie holding it down to the LCA... If it were mine, I would get the right equipment for it instead of trying to find ways to rig what's not supposed to be there.

CLICK HERE for fuel injectors. When you make your purchase, use ' JEEP ' as the coupon/discount code for 10% off ;) The only other thing that comes to mind on the running issue is what happended to me. When I bought my truck, it had a slight valve train noise and a miss...it ended up being a broken valve spring. $3 part and $30 to the engine guy to fix it.

That's a very good question...and one that my limited knowledge of electrical issues prevents me from answering :oops: I do know from personal experience that these trucks are insanely sensitive to ground issues. I would do a little checking of the wires on the ignition switch under the dash on the steering column as they are know for having bad/deteriorating connections.