BLHTAZ

AFAIK...the 4.0L is about 450 lbs, but I can't remember where I got that from and I have not come up with it doing a couple quick searches right now.

While I understand where you are coming from and what you feel...I don't believe for a minute that things are that bad for Chrylser. I think Ford and/or GM will be in this trouble long before Chrysler. Even if they do file bankruptcy, it will be a re-organization and they will not be gone by any means :cheers: . Do what you feel is right, but try not to worry so much...it'll be OK :thumbsup:

Nice work :thumbsup: :idea: Just don't pull the pin...

Yes... :thumbsup: They are the same from the b-pillars forward...it's the rear stuff that won't interchange.

Excellent...I have always contended that you could find anything on eBay if you are patient/diligent enough :thumbsup: .

This guy is a member here, but I don't remember his username. He joined here after someone else posted video of him running it on here in another thread. :D

I am agreeing with Jon...it sounds like a master cylinder problem to me...but, if you don't see anything leaking...where is the fluid going?? I would look real good inside the truck and the master will leak behind the fuse block and down under your floor covering where you can't see it.

Not really "power" per-say, but it did make a difference in acceleration & idle smoothness as well as the afore mentioned MPG gains. I am sure there is some gain, but something like this is going to be minimal improvement on HP...5-6 maybe, but just a guess. ;)

:agree: The 19lb Design II injectors are the ones that work well in the '87 - '95 4.0L engines...whcih is what I linked to. The 24lb injectors are for strokers. The 4 hole design of the Design II is what makes is do much more effective. My MPG increased by about 14% in the MJ when I used them and by about 8% in my '95 YJ when I installed the same ones in it.

But still...why change the stock injectors for other stock injectors that are going to make very little difference according to those numbers. The Ford injectors are much better and will make a significant difference for less money and the same injector works for '87 - '95 :cheers: .

Getting down to the wire... I have received payments and/or replies from all but one person.

Both of your emails have been replied to Troy & Jeremy :thumbsup:

The injectors are the same for 1987 - 1995, so no...changing them will make no difference. The injectors for the newer HO's ('97 & up) are completely different and won't work. This has been posted on here probably 100 times or more, but here ya go... http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/p ... roductId=7 Make your purchase and then be sure to use the word ' JEEP ' in the discount/coupon code to receive 10% off of your purchase. :thumbsup:

:agree: If you intend on doing some intense wheelin', then you will need it, but for DD and occasional offroading you shouldn't.

Supercharged with 4.56's & 31's will go about 50 MPH in 4th gear at 5-6000 RPM...not a good combination :???: . IMO - 3.73's would be the gear to go with for that set-up...if, as you say, you are not going to go bigger.

You could probably hack together a kit that would do what you want, but it would be just that...a hack job. The best, safest and smartest thing to do is spend the $700 - $900 on a good kit and have it done right with upper & lower LCA's, track bar & rear springs. How on earth did you lengthen a stock control arm. They are nothing but weak pressed sheet metal and making them longer would just make them weaker. You must have done something to strengthen them as well as lengthen them or you would not be using them right now...especially if you have ever really wheeled them. ;)

As I said...IMO yes. Definitely need LCA's at minimum, but if the truck is going to be a wheeler...both are STRONGLY recommended ;)

The relay that is just above it on mine is a fan controller that I installed. This is the inner fender on the drivers side right by the ar filter box.

That's what I was going to say too. I just had an issue with our YJ with the check engine light on all the time, the volt meter reading 9v and the code was telling me that there was a problem with the alternator. I checked it and it was putting out good voltage, pulled the battery cables and turned on all the lights and it ran fine, took the alternator off and had it tested...it was good. When I put everything back together...it works fine and the code is gone... :dunno: . Evidentally there was a bad connection somewhere...

The problem is primarily with air in the system, which will cause overheating...not running cold. That's why I am not sure that the t-stat is the problem here, but it's a cheap thing to try to start. The t-stat without the bypass makes it quite difficult to properly bleed the closed cooling system. If you have converted to the open system, then it's not an issue.

-In my opinion...you will definitely need to replace both the UCA's and the LCA's...especially if you are going to wheel it as the stock arms are weak junk. -You will need an adjustable track bar. -No pitman arm is needed. Just remember if you buy that kit...you get what you pay for. Cheap means cheap :smart: . It's a good price...BUT...

The dealership is the only place to get the correct t-stat for the 4.0L engine. It needs to have the little bypass valve/hole in it that goes in the 12 o'clock position. I have never seen an aftermarket t-stat with this feature and it will cause problems without it. The t-stat's purpose is to keep the engine warm/hot...not to cool it :thumbsup: .

DAMNITMAN...now you've gone and got me droolin'... :drool: :fs2:

Here is help on how to do that... viewtopic.php?t=11077

Cool...you could put some 49" IROKs on the rear :idea: :D