BLHTAZ

Yes...I forgot that there are certain years of the 4.0L that came with NGK's from the factory. I think it was the '99 - '04 range, but not 100% sure on that one...

I have used the AMSOIL 85w-90 gear oil in my AX-15 since it had 10,000 miles on it and have had no problems at all other than when I broke the gear for 3rd gear. It has just over 99,000 miles now and still shifts as smooth as it ever has. The tranny shop that did the replacement of hte broken gear said everything else inside looked good as new and the synchros showed no excessive wear. If Chrysler is changing it, then there must be something to it, but I have seen no personal proof that there is any problem. So, with this info...I guess that you should put 10w-30 motor oil in the tranny if it is an AX-15 :thumbsup:

Ford was in some sort of partnership and had their hands in the making of some of the older Willys stuff, but they never "owned" Jeep ;) . I think that is the point that was being made.

:thumbsup: http://www.test-of-fire.com/Transfer%20 ... 0Guide.htm Sweet...!! Another bookmark added to the collection :banana:

Ya'll enjoy your snow. I just got done working up a sweat running the lawn mower and bagging up 3 - 39 gallon bags of yard waste... :shake: Now I'm off to the Chiropractor for an adjustment :D

I really don't know how many different versions of the NP231 there are, but suffice it to say there are several.

That manual has the wiring diagram for the coil. I posted a blow up of it in your other thread. Your problem sounds to me like the CPS (crank position sensor) is bad though, not the coil. :idea: Here it is again just for the hell of it... ;)

From your description...I would say you are talking about the tach output...

FWIW... I upgraded to Silverstars a long time ago. Much brighter and I did nothing but plug them in :thumbsup:

:agree: Can't wait to see it... :thumbsup:

You definitely need to take the drop out of it. That shaft is compressed way to far and removing the drop will pull it out a little bit. These trucks don't need the drop in them as the wheel base is plenty long to support the angle. I have seen XJs have driveline vibes that were fixed with a drop kit, but it is really rare and I haven't heard of anyone with an MJ needing it.

I use doPDF for the same thing... http://www.dopdf.com/ I use Open Office to create most of my PDF files, but that little printer utility is quite amazing and very convenient :thumbsup:

:agree: ...but, like the others, i'm still wondering why? School project? Just because you could? Just to see if you could? Just something to do?

With that much lift, longarms or LCA drop brackets are typically needed as the short control arms are just not going to do the job.

You need to know what size tire you are going to run to figure that out ;) . If you are going with 33's, you will likely want 4.56, but if you go 35's then 4.88 would be better with a 2.5L engine. If you have a 4.0L then it would be 4.10 for 33's or 4.56 for 35's.

We just went through this with another guy here. ;) Check out this thread for your answers... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13380

Royal Purple is good stuff. I personally prefer AMSOIL and use it in everything I own including my lawnmower, trimmer, chain saw, leaf blower and generator ;) . -Your axles will use 75-90 or 80-90 gear oil...either one is fine. If you have a limited slip rear it will need the friction modifier additive. -Engine oil will be something between a 10-30 & 20-50 depending on you climate and engine wear. -Tranny is going to be the same gear oil as the axles. -T-case is automatic tranny fluid if it's the AX15, the BA10/5 uses gear oil.

Yeah...stick with the Champions on that engine. As Wildman said, the Bosch Platinums are for the slightly newer engines. I run them in my YJ and in my '02 Dodge Ram 4.7L as they are the recommended performance plug frmo Chrysler ansd they are what you get if you order Mopar Performance spark plugs. I am a 100% believer in Platinum plugs, just not in older engins. As far as the 4cyl thing, the 6cyl (4.0L) has more power...and A LOT more torque as well as a much longer, more dependable life.

That is a slave for the internal BA10/5 tranny. If that is the one you need, you really want to buy it at the dealership. They are a bit more expensive, but well worth it.

Being 35's, those have to be 4" springs with 2" spacers...so as already suggested, go with some 6.5" springs and you should be good as far as height goes. If they were stock springs and only 2" spacers, you would not be clearing those tires that well even with the cutting and it would be much lower in the front than what I see in those pictures. As for control arm issues...that will be another monster to tackle.

Definitely a spacer in there, but I have no idea what sorings they are. What size tires are those? Is the rear SOA? If so, then the coils have got to be around 4".

The best thing you can do for yourself there is to go to my post here in the DIY forum and download the manual to your computer... viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12517 There is a vacuum diagram in there that will help you a lot :cheers: Most of the lines that you may need can still be found at NAPA online.

That should be a 4.10, but you will need to physically check it to be sure because nothing is set in stone with these trucks :yes:

Not saying a "bigger size", just an aftermarket wheel with backspacing in the 3.75 - 4" range.

The MAP sensor tube will maje it run very bad if it leaks or is not hooked up ;) Glad you're making progress. :thumbsup: