BLHTAZ

Is there any type of driveline shop near you. Places tha build driveshafts, cv joints etc, etc... should have stuff like that or be able to tell you where to get them as a lot of u-joints used in a cv set up have those type fittings.

Sounds like the bearing in the idler pulley is going bad. It usually makes noise, but I have seen many that didn't and they just all of the sudden fly off while going down the road causing all kinds of added repair expense.

Here is a picture of mine with 3.5" RE lift and 31" Swampers.

It's gone up about .30 cents in the last 3-4 weeks down here. It was at 1.50, but is running around 1.80 and I saw it as high as 1.87 Saturday, but that was right outside the Orlando International Airport along a major Highway.

If it has a 242, it should not have a CAD. If it has a CAD & a 242...it has been changed as the 242 does not support the CAD front axle. If you have a CAD and a 242, that would explain why both front tires turn with the shaft as someone has locked the CAD or replaced the right side axle shaft with a one piece :thumbsup:

You have to select a year for the 5.0 injectors on that site. What year should I select? If you are going to this site... http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/p ... roductId=7 ...I don't see where you have to select a year and have never heard that before. It is set to '87 - '95 automatically. If it is asking somewhere after the first screen then put in the year of your Jeep :thumbsup:

Actually, this is the only place I have seen anyone say anything about the change so I was basing that off of what I remembered seeing here. I never heard anything about using motor oil in the AX-15 while I worked at the dealership. I may have remembered wrong on the 30 / 40 part, but I'll see if there is any way that I can get a definite answer on that. I have never checked in to it because I don't believe in it personally since there are so many synthetic gear oils out there now that are affordable and do not have sulfer. AMSOIL & Royal Purple both make gear oils without sulfer that will be fine to use in the AX-15.

The end that attaches to the sides of the tranny tunnel had to be re-shaped a little to make them fit. A little bending and persuasion with a 3lb hammer and things went pretty smooth :yes: . The belt part was no problem...easy fit. I was thinking that the cup holder was not going to be the best , but we usually don't have anything but a can of Diet Pepsi to put in them anyway. I'm sure I will be looking to upgrade the cup holder situation in the near future though :shake: :thumbsup: My parking brake is on the flooor, so no problem there.

Yea...the strokers have to use the 24lb injectors. Precision usually has some, but he doesn't always have a lot so he has not yet put them up on the site. If anyone is wanting those...email him and ask :thumbsup:

The drain plug is on the lower right side near the front. The fill plug is on the left side about mid case. Chrysler has changed the recommended fluid to 10w-30 because of the sulfer content of the gear oil that was previously recommended destroying syncros. Personally, I use AMSOIL 80-90 gear oil as it has no sulfer in it and mine (the YJ) has run on it for many years now with no ill effects.

Yea...it got here in two days even when shipped by First Class Mail :thumbsup: . Of course they are only about a 6-7 drive away from me :yes:

No...they are not the same. I am really surprised that you were able to put it in.

The belts came from Car Parts Wholesale on eBay. Needed a little "finesse" to make the buckle end fit right, but they work great. Only available in Black though. The cup holder is brand new from Oconee Off-Road on eBay. I got a great deal and easy transaction on the console from a fellow CC member... smartazz19 :bowdown: :thumbsup:

Thank you!! ...for the compliment and the good deal on the console :bowdown:

Sorry to hear of your troubles, but listen to the docs and take care of yourself :cheers:

I am not an electrical wiz by any means, but from what I have found out, the fuel pump gets its primary ground from behind the left tail light. Be sure to check that the ground back there is in good shape. There is an electrical manual posted in the DIY forum if you need it. Go here... http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... =9&t=12734

Well...I bought a clutch kit for mine for about $150 (I believe) that came with a slave too. The problem there was, the slave did not fit right and as I found out...doesn't last long either, so I ended up buying the one at the dealership for another $100 +/-. You should plan on $250 - $300 for parts at least and be sure to use the OE slave...you will regret it if you don't...I did :roll: . I have no idea what you will pay in labor as I was working at the dealership at the time mine went out so I got one of the guys there to help me out for a little cash a some cold Bud Light ;) .

OK...I'll rescind my previous post and go with Pete on this one :oops: . I did not read the OP real well and didn't catch the R/T part.

If that is true, why does Precision Auto Injectors list 87-95 as compatible? Should I stay away from them? http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/p ... roductId=7 They are completely compatible using the Ford injectors from Precision. I used the same ones in my '88 MJ and in our '95 YJ and am very pleased with the results. Those examples are for stock injectors and don't really have any bearing on the replacement Ford Motorsport injectors. If you go to other sites like Five-O motorsports...you will see the same listings as on Precision ;) When you go to Precision, be sure to use ' JEEP ' as a dicount code at checkout for 10% off...if I haven't told you that before :cheers:

After reading the further discussion about this, I know believe that your problem is likely the slave if there is no puddles of fluid from a broken hose squirting. Mine did the exact same thing when the slave went bad...fluid would go down slowly and if it got too low, the clutch was gone, but there were no puddles under the truck. I could always refill, pump the pedal a bit and bee good though until I finally replaced it. The master on my YJ went out like that one time though...no leaks, it just would not hold pressure and the fluid stayed full :nuts:

I aquired and installed a full console today...

Yep...that GLXJ link is the same file I have for the FSM :thumbsup:

Sounds more like a master cylinder problem to me...

if he's just dropping the motor...he doesn't have to worry about the transmission. just needs to put the YJ flexplate on it. I don't see where it says that he is working with an AT or MT though. My advice only applies to a manual trans, in which case there is a lot more to consider ;) Obviously the term "flexplate" being used would make you believe it is AT...but, I learned a long time ago not to ASSume :thumbsup:

All he needs to do is download the manual from the link I posted and then it is easily burned to a CD if you wish...and it's free ;) .