BLHTAZ

You may have a bad CTS (coolant temperature sensor). It's in the left side of the block just behind the P/S pump under the manifolds. It's a bit of a pain to get too, but it can cause what you are experiencing. Check your grounds too. There is a primary ground post on the right rear of the block where the negative battery cable attaches and 4 other ground wires that ground most everything in your electronic controls system. If that is not getting good ground...you will have all kinds of weird troubles...ask me how I know... :fs1: :ack: ;)

I would be affraid that the air flow would be restricted too much. The engine compartments on these trucks have a hard enough time breathing and staying cool without cutting the air down even more. I don't know if you have ever seen people use what looks like window screen from the house on the front of a vehicle to stop bugs from getting in/on it, but they don't realize that regular old screen like that cuts air flow by nearly 50% so I can only imagine that those mesh things would do the same. Something to think about... :smart: :thumbsup:

You're right...I missed that one :oops: OK...that'll work... :thumbsup:

I think there should be another "0" on there to make it 1000 grit. There is no way that you use 100 grit on that and then polish it out ;)

Exactly...it's an HO ;)

Very cool video... :clapping: I used that same song to make this year :thumbsup: . That new album is really good!

I have seen D35 shafts break on the highway with 30" tires because someone tried to take off to fast... :shake:

The most common break on the D35 is the axle shaft itself. It usually breaks toward the inner end just outside of the carrier. Probably the second most common failure is the axle tube...comes out of the differential housing or bends. If the D35 is re-geared to a fairly low ratio like a 4.56 or 4.88, it is real common for the ring & pinion to fail because the pinion head is very small.

Welcome to the Club... :cheers: If you are mechanically inclined and you have a good selection of tools, you can do the engine work if you have a manual with the needed specs. I would not recommend trying it if you are not real comfortable with how an engine works and your ability to put it back together and make it work. If you have never done it, or seen it done, then you probably should find help. It should be no big deal to swap the GC engine in since you already have the HO version in yours. :thumbsup: This is the way I would go.

Nice job...on the work and the write up :thumbsup:

The kit for an XJ will work fine on the front of you MJ. I don't recall ever running across anyone using a ProComp on an MJ, but I have sold & installed the ProComp coil spring kits on other Jeeps and the customers were happy. ProComp has issues with leaf springs being very stiff, but the coils are fine.

:thumbsup: Sounds like a good plan so far.

The front will be a D30, but your concern is the rear. It's either a D35 (most likely) or a D44 (not likely). Can you take a picture of yours and post it?

Need to get in touch with Spencer at jeepsticker.com and get a set of JEEP tailgate stickers for on that... :thumbsup:

:agree: It's just gettin' broke in... :cheers:

He just did that above... ;) Here ya go... :thumbsup:

Isn't that the ones that they put Bourbon, Baileys and other liquors inside of and sell on the counter at the ABC store? Those little round individual packages look real familiar ;)

Probably a server overload. It happens from time to time here and on the phpbb site that I admin on. It's not caused by us, but with all of the sites that are hosted, some of the bigger ones tend to over-run sometimes and it slows everbody down until the server resets. Just my guess from past experience... :cheers:

The MJ will NEVER fire up that quickly. The Renix controlled engine will always take between 2-5 seconds to ignite and run. I have two Jeeps with 4.0L engines...one Renix & one HO. The HO fires and is running in 1 second or less most all the time, but the MJ has never done better than 2-3 seconds. Check your fuel pressure to be sure, but there is not likely a problem...it is what it is. Don't waste your time & money cleaning the stock injectors. You can get the Ford Motorsport repalcement injectors like I used and see great improvements in idle, MPG, smoothness etc, etc... I got a 14% increase in MPG and I think it starts a little faster, but still never better than 2 seconds ;) . Go to Precision Auto Injectors for the ones that will make a difference. :thumbsup: OH...BTW...we have a special deal with Precision too if you decide to go that way. Use ' JEEP ' as a discount code at checkout and get 10% off :clapping:

As far as I know, they stayed with the 5 on 5 for the WK.

That is a 4 door XJ too so the seats are not going to be the fold forward kind. It's a real PITA to get behind the seats if they don't fold. They are in good shape and the console is definitely desireable, but I can't say that I would vote go for it on the seats.

:agree: Unless you are going with a BIG lift and BIG tires, which iis not likely on a Grand, then you should be fine with what you have. The D30 is a much better axle than a lot of people give it credit for.

:agree: Using caps in a forum is the equivilent of yelling ;) Welcome to the Club :cheers:

:thumbsup: :yes:

That is exactly the method that I have always used too and it has never been a problem. :thumbsup: