BLHTAZ

Good idea...I'll do it right now. :cheers:

OK...here is the "how to" part from the FSM on adjusting the Renix era TPS... THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) 1) Turn ignition on. Check throttle position sensor input voltage. Connect voltmeter negative lead to terminal "B" (M/T), or terminal "D" (A/T) of sensor connector. Connect voltmeter positive lead to terminal "A" (M/T and A/T) of sensor connector. NOTE: On (A/T) models, connector terminals are identified by letters molded into back of connector. On all models, do not disconnect TPS harness connector. Insert voltmeter test leads through back of wire harness connector. On some models, it may be necessary to remove throttle body from intake manifold to gain access to sensor wire harness. 2) Move and close throttle plate completely (M/T and A/T). Ensure throttle linkage contacts stop. Note voltmeter reading. Input voltage at terminals "B" and "A" (M/T), or terminals "A" and "D" (A/T) should be 5 volts. 3) Return throttle plate to closed throttle position (M/T and A/T). Check sensor output voltage. To do so, disconnect voltmeter positive lead from terminal "A" and connect it to terminal "C" (M/T), or terminal "B" (A/T). 4) Maintain throttle plate in closed position (M/T and A/T). Ensure throttle linkage contacts stop. Note voltmeter reading. Output voltage should be .8 volt (M/T), or 4.2 volts (A/T). 5) If output voltage is incorrect, loosen bottom sensor retaining screw and pivot sensor in adjustment slot for a coarse adjustment. Loosen top sensor retaining screw for fine adjustments. Tighten screws after adjustment.

Doesn't the link work for you? It should open the RENIX manual in PDF, then just save a copy to your local drive. That is too good... He didn't mean that literally...it's a quote from a very funny movie called Office Space (I believe is the name).

Check it out here... http://www.jeepstrokers.com/forum/ Strokers can get expensive, but they are sweet :cheers:

ALRIGHT...!! Let's all go to JoyZee :D

I wish I could bring it to Jeeptoberfest, but we will be bringing the YJ as I believe we are putting her up for sale and figured it would be good exposeure to have it there. We were going to bring the MJ until we decided to sell the YJ.

X3 ... with a sudden no start / no spark, it is nearly always the CPS.

The FSM says that it should be .8 ...it doesn't give a range. It says the input should be 5v and output should be .8v :???: Here is a snip from the FSM... THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) 1) Turn ignition on. Check throttle position sensor input voltage. Connect voltmeter negative lead to terminal "B" (M/T), or terminal "D" (A/T) of sensor connector. Connect voltmeter positive lead to terminal "A" (M/T and A/T) of sensor connector. NOTE: On (A/T) models, connector terminals are identified by letters molded into back of connector. On all models, do not disconnect TPS harness connector. Insert voltmeter test leads through back of wire harness connector. On some models, it may be necessary to remove throttle body from intake manifold to gain access to sensor wire harness. 2) Move and close throttle plate completely (M/T and A/T). Ensure throttle linkage contacts stop. Note voltmeter reading. Input voltage at terminals "B" and "A" (M/T), or terminals "A" and "D" (A/T) should be 5 volts. 3) Return throttle plate to closed throttle position (M/T and A/T). Check sensor output voltage. To do so, disconnect voltmeter positive lead from terminal "A" and connect it to terminal "C" (M/T), or terminal "B" (A/T). 4) Maintain throttle plate in closed position (M/T and A/T). Ensure throttle linkage contacts stop. Note voltmeter reading. Output voltage should be .8 volt (M/T), or 4.2 volts (A/T). 5) If output voltage is incorrect, loosen bottom sensor retaining screw and pivot sensor in adjustment slot for a coarse adjustment. Loosen top sensor retaining screw for fine adjustments. Tighten screws after adjustment.

The braided "cable" is still there on the left rear of the head to the firewall and is in good solid condition as I looked it over good and grabbed it and pulled hard on both ends to be sure it was still attached firmly. I thought my way of grounding should have been good too, but obviously it wasn't ;) . I did the TPS adjustment tonight. The input voltage was good at 4.9v, but the output was a bit too high at .92v so I got that adjusted down to .76v. It gave me a scare when I started it and it went flying right up to 3000 RPM, but I quickly shut it down and disconnected the battery ground for a couple minutes. When I hooked it back up and fired it up...everything was good again :D Thank ya'll for helping a real electrical dummy get through this :cheers:

Yeah...I might give $150 for the D44, but $600 for the truck is a bit much. Offer them $400 :cheers:

Well...it would be quite tough right now. They are on national back-order with no expected date of availability from Chrysler :roll: . If I could get it, it is quite expensive too at $155 for the cover alone at CC price :eek:

I only have trouble with regular Bud...all the other Bud products are no problem. The one that gives me an unbearable headache is Coors...

Well, we played better this week, but still too much pressure on Ben and too many stupid penalties. Somehow they managed a win though...

I searched all over and the best price I found was $92 around here for the Renix era engine.

If I had any power around here, I would remove this pic. Showing something like that is in poor taste and to think that you would be drinking while wheeling is just disgraceful. Drinkin' & Jeepin' do not mix :roll:

Yeah...I was thinking that it is not likely to be right since I have had it off. I'll get that set ASAP. :cheers:

I just went through the high idle problem, but mine was a ground issue... http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=12188 Did you be sure to use an Oxygen Sensor safe cleaner?

:cheers: It sounds Great . Congrats on a job well done - Rich It does sound good, but it looked to be running at a little over 1000 RPM in that quick shot of the tach you did. It should be down around 700. Keep up the good work... :D

DUDE... maybe I should have shipped it a little faster than ground. You could always run out to the drug store for some Melatonin :brows:

To answer the question...no, I did not have it on a scanner. I did replace the TPS, but it made no difference so I put the old one back on and figured I can sell the new one I bought to recover some of that money. On to some good news... I had an epiphany...!!! I went out as planned and started tracing wires, checking the c101, checking grounds with all of my diagrams printed and in tow. I got around to the passenger side of the truck and BOOM...it hit me as I looked at the new battery wiring harnes that I had put on a few months back. The battery ground goes to a stud sticking out of the right side of the block that also holds the dipstick tube. That is also where the 4 primary block & wiring harness ground wires connect. Well...when I changed the battery harness, I could not get the nut off of that stud, so I just cut the old battery ground cable and then found an unused threaded hole below the oil filter to put a bolt in and attached the battery ground to that. I guess this was the wrong thing to do as all the problems I have been having seem to have been ever since I did that and now that I have taken the time today to get the nut off of that stud, removed the ole battery cable end and have now mounted the new battery cable end where it is supposed to be...THE FREAKIN' JEEP RUNS BETTER THAN IT HAS IN MONTHS. It starts faster, quicker throttle response, accelerates better etc, etc... :D The EGR valve is still not working and the solenoid is still failing the tests per the FSM so I guess I need to replace that. I am quite relieved, but still feeling like quite the idiot at the same time... :oops: The great part is...it only took about 3.5 hours so now I can watch football & drink beer all day

Ya'll must be talking about a Zippo style light. I can't imagine a plastic Bic style lighter doing something like that... :eek: Back in the day when I worked construction, we used our claw hammer and held the bottle close to the top to roll the claw against the side of our had and pop it off...soda bottle of course while on the job :brows:

I do have the c101 connector and will be working on checking/tracing wires today. I can not see any sign of an intake manifold leak and have tried to check for that by spraying throttle body cleaner all around it while running with no response, so while it still could be possible, it doesn't loook likely. As long as I keep the IAC unplugged, it runs fine which is still leading me to believe that there is an electrical problem somewhere. I drove it for about 10 miles without the IAC connected and you would never know that it was not hooked up...the truck runs great... :dunno: I have printed out a bunch of electrical trouble shooting stuff from a .PDF manual that I got and I intend to spend what I need to of today working from that. Electrical stuff is way out of my scope of abilities so this may take quite a while. The Steelers are on at 8:15 tonight so I better go get to it as that is less than 12 hours from now... :roll: :brows:

It is Power Distribution Center...otherwise known as the fuse box ;) That's about all I am good for though as electrical stuff is just way beyond me... :cry: