BLHTAZ

My scenario is completely ASSuming that the 2.5L works similarly to the 4.0L, so I could be completely off base ;) . I have never owned anything but a 4.0L Jeep and when I was a technician back in the 80's...I didn't work on Jeeps so I am pretty much a one track mind here. Guess I should shut up and wait for someone with more knowledge on this one come in and help me learn too... :smart: :D

Having no spark would indicate a CPS issue.

:mad: That truly sux!! I don't know if there is anything that can be done unless your agreement was in writing about the metal replacement and everything that was to be done. I would at least have a "talk" with whom ever this is and see if he is will to honor at least some type of "gentlemens" agreement and work with you. I know one thing...I would be incredibly pissed off and have to wait a few days before facing him so I could be composed and not just blow a cork.

I know you have a 2.5L, but your description so far is highly indictive of a CPS failure. It is quite common on the 4.0L engines for them to do just as you have stated here with your 2.5L. Check for spark as mjdoa said. If there is no spark, but you have good fuel pressure, that would also point to CPS. Disclaimer: I am not "real" familiar with the 2.5L so I could be way off here too as they may have other common issues causing this that I am not aware of. ;)

My method of bleeding works without running then engine and requires it to be cool... 1.) Park the truck with the front end pointing down hill or jack the back end up as high as you can if you don't have a sloped area to work with. Allow it to set for a few minutes to get the air to accumulate at the high point in the rear of the head. 2.) Locate the temperature sender at the right rear of the head just under the MAP sensor. (I found it easier to remove the MAP sensor to get to it with a socket & extension). (not a Renix engine pictured, but it shows the location) 3.) Be sure that your coolant is propoerly filled and remove the sender, but don't go far with it as the air will bubble out and then the coolant will start to flow so you will need to be ready to put it back in quickly. Be sure to leave the cap off of the coolant bottle during this process. That should have the air out. Check your coolant level again after this process and then take it for a ride and see how it works. It should not heat up again (unless you have other issues), but if it does, repeat this process one more time AFTER IT COOLS DOWN. Mine worked with one try though :cheers:

You MUST make sure that you bleed ALL of the air out of the system when you have had it open & refilled. The closed system is very sensitive to air in it as I found out when I first got my truck ;) . My method of bleeding works without running then engine and requires it to be cool... 1.) Park the truck with the front end pointing down hill or jack the back end up as high as you can if you don't have a sloped area to work with. Allow it to set for a few minutes to get the air to accumulate at the high point in the rear of the head. 2.) Locate the temperature sender at the right rear of the head just under the MAP sensor. (I found it easier to remove the MAP sensor to get to it with a socket & extension). (not a Renix engine pictured, but it shows the location) 3.) Be sure that your coolant is propoerly filled and remove the sender, but don't go far with it as the air will bubble out and then the coolant will start to flow so you will need to be ready to put it back in quickly. That should have the air out. Check your coolant level again after this process and then take it for a ride and see how it works. It should not heat up again (unless you have other issues), but if it does, repeat this process one more time AFTER IT COOLS DOWN. Mine worked with one try though :cheers:

Great pictures. That is my kinda wheelin' :D :cheers: I expected to see this at the end... :laughin:

:cheers: Very nice clean work.

It's going to be a bit of a rough ride for a while, but I think we'll (America) be OK over all. I am in the same boat with the job outlook...should be OK on mine, but the wife has nearly 23 years in Pharmacy and should be no problem. We are in great shape on our house owning less than half of what it is actually worth even in the defalted market right now. I think stock-piling and guns would be a bit of a drastic measure right now, but who knows what the next few years are going to bring.

Does anyting like this still exist. If so...I want to go there... CLICK HERE FOR A TRIP DOWN THE DIRT ROAD MEMORY LANE 8)

:bowdown: Sweet!! I will be down for one...

I have no experience with this job, but if you say 11mm is too small and 13mm is too big, then this makes perfect sense...

It's been a long time since I did a balancer, but I seem to remember having to remove the radiator to get a puller in there as it sticks pretty tight on the crank. Otherwise I believe it was as you have described.

Here is the testing procedure for the MAP Sensor from the FSM... ------------------------------------------------------ MAP Sensor Test 1) Inspect MAP sensor hoses and connections. Repair as necessary. With ignition on and engine off, test MAP sensor output voltage at connector terminal "B". (Marked on sensor body). See Fig. 5. Output voltage should be 4 to 5 volts. 2) To verify wiring harness condition, test ECU terminal C-6 for same voltage described. Test MAP sensor supply voltage at sensor connector terminal "C" with ignition on. 3) Voltage should be 4.5-5.5 volts. Same voltage should also be at terminal C-14 of ECU wire harness connector. Using Diagnostic Tester (M.S. 1170), test MAP sensor ground circuit at terminal D-3 and terminal "A" of sensor connector. 4) Using an ohmmeter, test MAP sensor ground circuit at ECU connector between terminal D-3 of ECU connector and terminal B-11 with an ohmmeter. 5) If ohmmeter or diagnostic tester indicates an open circuit, inspect for a defective sensor ground connection, located on right side of cylinder block. If ground connection is good, ECU may need to be replaced.

Very sorry to hear that :cry: . Our's passed about 18 months ago at 14.5 years old and my wife still cries over her every now & then. Time heals so hang in there...

None of that now...look at rule #2 ;) http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1239

Definitely go with the aussies from Motion. They are stronger and more dependable from all I have read, but no personal experience.

JT... We will have those hat's at the show. They should be here within the next 10 days. SW2... Definitely need to update that picture. The MJ is quite different now and our dog seen in that picture was quite sick at the time with brain cancer and died 18 months ago. It was a VERY hard loss on Tina as those two were inseparable. We do have the Flag Flame & Pink hats in stock.

I forgot to note it, but I just copied it from the FSM...I didn't write it... :oops:

I finally saw $3.46 last night... :roll:

:cheers: :laughin: The whole thing is great, but I like this one the best...

This is my family. Then you will stop arguing, listen to your father and stay off of the computer on Sunday night!! ;) :D

This show brings all kinds so I would not worry about being laughed at...it won't happen. If you come out...look us up as we will be a vendor set up and selling our t-shirts, hats etc, etc... It is usually a busy time for us so we will not have time to run around much. Our set up usually looks like this... ;)

For anyone in or even near Florida, this is the largest Jeep only show in the SE United States. I is a two day event on October 25th & 26th. See the JEEPTOBERFEST flyer here. <-- It's a 3.7mb .PDF so it make take a minute to load ;) This show is a good time with 3 off road courses and typically around 4000 people in attendance.

THROTTLE POSITION SENSOR (TPS) 1) Turn ignition on. Check throttle position sensor input voltage. Connect voltmeter negative lead to terminal "B" (M/T), or terminal "D" (A/T) of sensor connector. Connect voltmeter positive lead to terminal "A" (M/T and A/T) of sensor connector. NOTE: On (A/T) models, connector terminals are identified by letters molded into back of connector. On all models, do not disconnect TPS harness connector. Insert voltmeter test leads through back of wire harness connector. On some models, it may be necessary to remove throttle body from intake manifold to gain access to sensor wire harness. 2) Move and close throttle plate completely (M/T and A/T). Ensure throttle linkage contacts stop. Note voltmeter reading. Input voltage at terminals "B" and "A" (M/T), or terminals "A" and "D" (A/T) should be 5 volts. 3) Return throttle plate to closed throttle position (M/T and A/T). Check sensor output voltage. To do so, disconnect voltmeter positive lead from terminal "A" and connect it to terminal "C" (M/T), or terminal "B" (A/T). 4) Maintain throttle plate in closed position (M/T and A/T). Ensure throttle linkage contacts stop. Note voltmeter reading. Output voltage should be .8 volt (M/T), or 4.2 volts (A/T). 5) If output voltage is incorrect, loosen bottom sensor retaining screw and pivot sensor in adjustment slot for a coarse adjustment. Loosen top sensor retaining screw for fine adjustments. Tighten screws after adjustment.