BLHTAZ

Nice lookin' truck...BUT, I would have to find a way to get rid of that woodgrain if it were mine ;) .

Definitely a nice start. :cheers: Looking forward to where it goes.

I like the electric idea. :cheers: I'll have to be watching to see how that develops.

Cleaning has been done as I said above... ;) It appears that there is no way to truly test the IAC without the proper tool for doing so, so I have ordered another one to replace it again. We'll see what happens. I think I am going to replace the EGR Valve as well...just because :brows: . I'm sure it couldn't hurt after 21 years.

Timing is not adjustable, but there is a tensioner in the 2.5L's that can go bad. X2 on the o2 sensor...

Well...he may not have Internet, but he is still cool because he drives an MJ :cheers:

I cleaned it good and can not see anything there so I guess someone has been in this one before.

Like you said last weekend when you were down here...it just makes sense to do both since you are already in there. If you are going in, you might as well have everything you need on hand...ie; rods, mains, oil pump, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, oil & filter.

Wish I had heard that one when I was struggling... I will remember it for next time though :brows: .

Correct, but the nightmare of air compressor, air lines, difficult/expensive install etc, etc... is just not worth it. I agree that the selectable locker is the way to go, but my preference is OX Lockers :cheers: . OX is simpler all around and from what I have seen it is stronger and more dependable than ARB. This is all just my opinion (of course) based on my personally experiences from previously being in the aftermarket business (4 Wheel Parts) of selling & installing such things.

The front or rear debate is another one that goes on like which tire is best. I personally think that the rear is the best choice because it is the main drive axle and carries the biggest load even when in 4WD. I don't like ARB's and would never recommend them or put them in my vehicle, but that is another debate ;) . Check with Motion Offroad for rock sliders for you MJ.

There was a great leader we once had that was in to Jeeps. I don't know that McCain holds a candle to him, but we can always hope...

I had the same problem for several months. I changed the belt 4 times before I finally found out that someone before me had replaced the power steering pump and in the process, they did not put the pulley back on correctly. It was not pushed far enough on the shaft and the mis-alignment was causing the belt to make all kinds of noise. It was only off by about 1/8", but it caused me a huge PITA. The front edge of the instal flange on the center of the pulley should be flush with the end of the pump shaft. Also...check your idler pulley bearing to see if it is going bad and has too much resistance.

OK...maybe there is hope for us after all... :D

I'll bet that sounded interesting. Glad you got it moving again :cheers:

I replaced the guage today and it works great :D . I can actually see how much pressure I have now.

I have not replaced the EGR valve, but that was on my mind. It just didn't seem that it would be a root cause for this issue as it doesn't seem to matter if the engine is hot or cold...it just wants to run at 2500 - 3000. I have taken everything apart and cleaned it thoroughly today, but it made no difference.

:eek: Good God man... What kind of vehicle is that and how did you manage to split the t-case that badly?

I replaced the IAC back in January because I was having some very intermittent idle issues. Things seemd fine until a few weeks ago and the idle issues started again and have become progressively worse. When the truck is started...it will rev up to as high as 3500 RPM and will sometimes stay there for as much as a minute if I allow it to and other times it will calm down to normal (650 - 700) in just a few seconds. Usually I have to shut it off and start it again a few times before I can get it to slow down and if I start driving with it at high idle, it typically has no effect. I took the big air intake duct off of it today and started it up. It immediately went to 2500 and stayed there until I put my finger over the IAC hole on top of the throttle body and it slowed down to normal idle so I know that the IAC is staying open when it shouldn't. Is there another way to test the IAC itself other than with the testing tool that is described in the FSM? I have ordered another IAC for Monday, but I am only "ASSuming" that it is the problem right now and hoping that it's not the ECU. I put a new TPS on it too just for the hell of it, but that made no difference at all so I now have a brand new TPS to sell if anyone needs one ;) Within the last year these items have been replaced... IAC TPS o2 sensor MAP sensor Could the CTS (Coolant Temp Sensor in the block) be an issue here?

Had no desire to watch it... All it would do is confirm to me that there is no good choice for president and it really doesn't matter who gets elected...we're screwed. Obama is a great "stage act" with no experience who is going to "change things". McCain is just more of the same crap that we have now. :cheers:

Here are a few pics that I did manage to get... This is a main cap This is the #1 rod. As he predicted...the upper halves were the worst worn. Pretty clean inside See the small scar on the journal. There were a couple like that, but they were not bad enough to warrant replacing the crank.

One of my co-workers found them at a place called Auto Machine & Parts in Down Town Orlando. She knew of the place from many years ago when she and her husband had their own business and they used them for supplies and machine work. I tried looking for the codes on the side of the block, but I am going to have to clean it before I will see anything. There is an oil build up all around that area from the oil filter adapter o-rings leaking, but that was fixed the other day too ;) .

:cheers: Very nice work :D Wish I had access to the equipment and the ability to do that :bowdown:

The BFG mt's are probably going to be your best for overall use. I personally prefer the Swamper TrXus MT Radials and have no trouble with the ones that are on my MJ...even at 70 MPH on the HWY, but they were hard to get balanced and do have some "small" vibes on the road sometimes. I run the Xterrains on our YJ, but it is primarily a rock crawler and sees absolutley no HWY use. The yare great on the rocks, but not real good in mud. Stay away from the Goodyear MTR's as they are trash and will try to kill you on the HWY as they have NO traction in wet weather or on slippery roads. They are pretty sticky for rocks, but I would never trust my life to them on the HWY.

No problems here in FL either :dunno: