BLHTAZ

Hey Jake... It's on the passenger side inside the cab under the glove box in the side of the evap case. If you get down and look under the dash, there will be a little cover (if it's still there) over it. Take the cover off, unplug the wires, take the two screws out and go get another. Most dealers still stock them and they are not expensive.

Where are you getting these prices? Cheapest we've been able to find is ~$1300 for the front and ~$1200 for the rear. And that's getting a "deal"... That is correct. I qouted a set of them the other day to a friend of mine that wants to put them under a TJ and it was about $1500 front and $1400 rear. They have also stopped building them with brakes now too. There are still some out there with the brakes on them, but all of the ones being built now will not have brakes on them, but the price is still the same.

I am not sure what the engine issue may be at this point. The clutch is hydraulic. You should first check the fluid level in the master cylinder. It is located on the firewall just to the left of the brake booster and should have a round black cap about 2.5" in diameter. If that is low, then you obviously have a leak somewhere. If it is not low then you likely are experiencing a failure of either the master or slave cylinder. The master would be easy to change as it is right there on the firewall, but the slave is inside the tranny bellhousing and requires removal of the tranny.

Yeah...the o2 sensor sticks out of the exhaust manifold and is pointing at the back side of the left front wheel.

:cheers: Nice work! I don't know that the higher flow rate will boost performance, but it will more like just cause your enfing to run rich and destroy your Cat.. I would research that one much more before trying it.

The unit we are talking about here is a 2.5L TBI, not MPI. :dunno: Why would you spend that kind of money to clean injectors when you can upgrade to the Ford Motorsport injectors for the same money? ;)

I'd would want a wiring diagram/schematic of exactly what they jury-rigged to fix the short, including ECU pinouts, diode type they inserted, and the FSM circuit number/description they bypassed/replaced/ and/or cut out. Just in case it fails......... 8) X2 I am glad that you got it going, but I would definitely want to know what/how on that wiring repair in case there was an issue in a place that you have no access to help.

Welcome to tropical weather... ;) (sorry, I had to... :D ) Hate to hear of your troubles, but I am glad that your issues are small. Winds like that are often much more devastating, especially to an area that doesn't normally see that type of storm.

I thought that too, but when I realized both of us were feeling the same thing, I had to go looking :cheers:

so does the situation, or the car sound familiar? Got it... It's the situation... ;) You posted nearly the same thing back in April... Look Here :laughin: :cheers:

It should come on immediately when the AC is turned on, but should also work from a thermostatic control as well. What year is your Jeep?

The truck starts losing power. Eventually it'll just keep stalling out. Partially clogged, it can also cause engine overheating and if it clogs completly...it will not run at all.

Exactly...shim the CAD over in the locked position and forget about those tubes :cheers: You will need to locate the vacuum source and cap it off though ;)

Well...it wasn't purdy, but it's a win... :brows:

:rotfl2: Great explanation... :D Probably a good idea to do it ASAP because if that is it and it decides to plug up...you will have a much bigger problem.

so does the situation, or the car sound familiar? Both, someone else a few weeks back made a post very similar to this. Anyone know who that was? I thought that's what your are referring to, but I wasn't sure. I seem to remember the same thing and it seems that the title was nearly identical.

That video is not terrible. Considering it's a cell phone...it's quite good really. From what I hear there, I believe even more that it's the Cat.. I would try what you mentioned above and see what happens as there should be no ill effect from just cleaning it out otherthan a loss of a little back pressure.

The catalytic converter could have possibly come apart internally. If a chunk of that honey comb breaks off in there it can make quite a bit of noise and it can radiate up the pipe making you think it's coming from higher up.

I believe the truck is a '91, but it has a '93 engine in it. He is very vague in the description so it's hard to tell. You are correct though...MJ's were '86 - '92 :cheers:

OH...OK... When I saw two MJ's, I didn't bother reading the details ;) . I didn't think about the fact that he may have meant Metric Tonne instead of 1 Ton.

:dunno: A 1 Ton what...?? :huh???: All I see is a link to two Comanches...

Glad your back...and still alive :eek: . It wasn't your time to go yet :cheers:

I did the same thing and have been very happy with them

I'm glad I read this as I was thinking about doing a good engine wash job in the very near future now that I have all the leaks fixed :brows:. Guess I'll be finding a shower cap for the throttle body... :D

I have had ProComp MT's on my Ram and loved them. I got 40K out of them before I traded the truck for a new one. We drove them from FL to PA 3 or 4 times. We have been running the ProComp Xterrains on our YJ for over 6 years now (same set) and love them too. They are a bit noisy on the road, but our YJ is not driven on the road much at all. We had the Swamper SSR's on it prior to the Xterrains, and believe it or not...the Xterrains are louder on the pavement than the Swampers were. We have occasionally driven the YJ for short trips of 1.5 hours or so on the interstate and they ride great. They are not the best in mud, but they are great on rocks :cheers: I have no use for All Terrains so I can't help if you are looking at them ;)