comanchedude

I would think it won't matter ..if you have the smaller tank ..now you will have the larger tank..you may just need to move a strap over a notch on the bed or add a strap if the larger tank used 3 .?

now now.. I installed new electric water heater in 1998 and its still going strong today.. just had to replace both elements once about 6 years ago.... they last fine. But i could not carry the old one filled with water... Jim is Da Man :)

22 TO 24K seems to be best on my renix system. I used to get as high as 19-20 hwy with 33" tires and 4.10 gears..now with 35" rockers best I can get is 15-16 hwy.....

Looks like they are all going to be the same type from rock auto, so you can just buy the lowest cost unit. now there are better units "ie all metal" on ebay they have units to fit i have included a link to a All Aluminum unit for $100. but they also hav copper/brass units. if you want a 2 or 3 row unit you will need to spend 175-200 . http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Row-w-o-EOC-w-TOC-Performance-Racing-All-Aluminum-Radiator-For-4-0-L6-GAS-/290782201989?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A1988|Make%3AJeep|Model%3AComanche&hash=item43b3f84885&vxp=mtr

I don't have any issues with Rustys offroad. but the General Spring deal is really good for the fact its a M-wrap.. for your needs they sound like a perfect match.

I have seen your thread before.. if you get this done it will be so cool. I may have to do this..... man its so cool. awesome tow rig ...

I used ZJ seats, What I did was remove the electric base and used 1/4 flat stock bolted to the bottom of the seat and bolted the MJ brackets to that. They are ok but they are going this year for suspension seats.. I have the leather and its way to slippery...

I believe this guy has more than one bed ..maybe you can get one for good price http://www.cincyoffroad.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10018

w. I got my POS beat MJ for 800 just the other day in cinci. :fs1: Nice..that MJ was 2500.00 I believe when it was first posted.. Seen it had blown head gasket and he wanted 1500.00. So you got him down to 800.00 that's good. I was interested in that one cause it was a 92. Is the frame solid back at the rear spring mounts? Good score don't see many 91 or 92 MJs .. Enjoy it

Well heck you guys should own 3 or more MJs then for those prices. rusted out beat up MJs in Cincy area are over a grand.. Nice MJs are 3-5 k.. and there are only a few.

I read your post 4 times... I think you asked what is the easy way to put a 4.0 in your 87 2.5. well the easy way is to swap in a 87 through 89 4.0 engine from another XJ or MJ. now I have done this swap and its like any engine swap. what you will need if both are auto, or standard? the wire harness from the firewall forward from the 4.0 Jeep, also the engine mount frame horns from the 4.0 Jeep. and of course the radiator form the 4.0. that's the basics. there is no need to change the dash or any dash wires. you also may have to swap gas tank and fuel pump..I did. also you do have to modify the fuel soft line and splice in the 4.0 line at the end so it can connect to the 4.0 fuel rail. if you are skilled with auto repair..with 1 or 2 helpers it is a weekend project. it took me and a buddy about 16hrs to convert 2wd 2.5 manual to a 4wd 4.0 auto (all new drive train with engine swap. that is the easy way.. now if you go to Ho engine and or want to change dash well I didn't do that so I don't know how long but I would expect double the time to Change all that. As for selling your MJ and buying a 4.0 MJ well in my area that would most likely cost double or more because a 2.5 MJ is half the value or more of a 4.0 MJ.. and that's assuming you would even find a nice running 4.0 MJ for under 3k

Here is a place I have bought from, all the parts they supply are top line and they have very good pricing.. and you can customize your master as well. http://www.flatlanderracing.com/rebuildkitsamc.html

Nice, enjoy it.. i think its cool as can be

Sludge can be from a few things. Least is oil. Not changing it as often as needed, running the engine in a lot of short trips ,running engine cold, non functions PVC system. . I think you cleaning the sludge by scraping is best. Remove your pan and start at top clean and wash through with solvent ,then clean pan and the pickup screen. . Then just run normal 10w30 and change it per owner book. Per your driving conditions. 3k is usually a safe bet. My 2cent

Could be the ignition switch on the column .. Or the relay under the hood..jump from the battery post on the relay to the sol term on the relay. If it works then prolly the ignition switch.

Have you tested the fuse box..you said the fuse is good so did you check that there is 12v to each fuse port? if not then you know the problem is prior to the fuse box or at the box. now if you get 12v at the fuse ports then you you know its past the fuse box. .everyone has said to check your ground..that is good advise and with the info provided may be just that. I do know the listed items are connected to the headlite switch also so that suggestion is good also. just start testing with a meter and track down were you lose power

When setting up your system just keep the steering and track bar in phase during suspension travel . This link shows what you want http://bulletproofsteering.com/geometry.html

Ebonics? HaHaHa

Yes you do need to raise the track bar.. Of course I don't have any steering issues..it perfect. I really do me perfect nice tight exact ..just how you want the steering to be. I recommend to anyone with similar lift on MJ or xj to run this type steering setup..it's the deal. you can see the setup fairly well in this pic [imghttp://pic100.picturetrail.com/VOL1163/4194354/24293153/405425830.jpg[/img]

I will give my experience with my MJ at 6.5 lift , I have fooled around with the steering for couple years and used different setups and drop pit arm ect.... for me only setup that met all my expectations and works perfect is using a JB conversions high steer adapter, RR steering system factory pit. problems solved.been a solid setup for several years now. but you can try the other stuff out there it may satisfy you? at 6" lift the steering needs to be changed to a high steer setup for best performance. The systems below seem to be popular JCRoffroad one ton steering Rustys off road steering Currie steering system also Iron Rock Offroad

Another option. http://roughcountry.com/jeep_mj_4.html Or this one and ask for MJ leaf. http://roughcountry.com/jeep_xj_4.html

Don't have pic, i can take one later and post it , I cut about 1/4 or so of the support. you can cut up the lift kit also. for me it was no big deal the support is thick and what I cut from it was not enough to make much difference in my opinion. and I didn't close it back off , if your going to treat the MJ like a res-to and keep it really nice and not wheel it much then i would (if you notch) close it back up so it looks "finished off" if someone looks under your Jeep. so you will have to decide. the RC kit has been updated over the past couple years and if you buy one today RC has updated the weak links both the flex joints and the lower arm bushings at the axle . I have the updated parts in mine and they do last as long as would be expected. I'm over a year on the latest gen and I wheel mine often and fairly hard. and the parts are lasting.

I may just not see it but looks like the only broken item is the spider gear? if to just replace them from any d35 and no adjustments need to be done. or just swap front and rear axles both from junk yard XJ or MJ so you get matching set. as for the perch welding don't worry to much about that once they are bolted in even a crappy weld job won't matter..the unbolts hold the axle in ...the welds would have to be so bad to matter..so don't. or you could always order a gear set for the front and rear and just re gear the axles to say.4.10? I bet you could get deal on a gear set if you sell that fact its for school project and also learn installing gears it not to bad just takes time

I have 35" tires with 6.5" springs. you will need to bump stop obviously. also flatten out the seem in the wheel well... at 37 you will start to get into the wheel well when you turn so you will have to clearance that more than just flatting the seem. I say 6" min and make room...

I have PORC 6.5 coils with .75 poly spacer in front and factory (2WD) leafs soa with 1.25" tall by 8" long spring pads . sets level.. parts have been in service over 5 years and all is well. as for steering I run High steer adapter from JB conversions to make steering linkage work perfect! and custom track bar. at 6" lift you will ant to get your steering system right..or it will always suck. Hi Steer Adapter