ftpiercecracker1

On the driver side of the engine bay.

This is probably something you are going to have to figure out on your own since each person has a different amount of damage to repair, just remember the old saying "measure twice, cut once". maybe you can find a way to mate the C2C rocker with whats left of the old? :dunno: Oh and BTW would you mind putting up a picture of what the C2C rocker looks like? I had tossed around the idea of getting them myself but decided to repair my old ones the best i could. thanks

nice, i will have to check that out,

Are you in a position where you can't use proper cleaning agents? or do you just not want to? (afraid of messing up electronics)

What is that? :hmm:

same here, ya I would never build it, but if i saw a double dually comanche rolling down the road or at a mud bog i would be doing all i could to run him down to take pictures and ask questions

Horseshoes are cake to weld aint they. :D I made a set of drings for my front bumper, with em.

What if you wanted to keep your a/c?

Yup, I know to do that at least

I've currently have a standard (ax-15) in my truck and when i pulled the engine to do a stroker i decided to "clean up" the engine bay harness, well now that i have it all torn apart i havent the slightest idea how to goes back together. Soooo I will be going to the junkyard to pull another harness, approx $25. I want to know if i can use a harness from an auto. I know the throttle body will have two plugs, and there will be extra plugs for the TCU and what goes to the Transmission itself but other than that i can't see what else would prevent me from doing this. The reason why i want to use the harness from an auto instead of another stick is that i plan on swapping to an auto in the near future, so this would be perfect planning ahead, just snag the harness and TCU and when i am ready i will have everything i need, wiring wise, to swap in an AW4. Savvy? :D Ftpiercecracker1

My pleasure Knucklehead, I sometimes do searches on craigslist for comanches at random places in the US just to see whats out there. I have found some absolute steals, but they are usually 1000 miles away, literally. I found one some where in FL, i think, guy wanted 14K for it :eek: , but it was uber niiiiice. Imagine a Comanche fresh of the assembly line with every offroad add on you could want. :drool:

Amen to that brother. :agree: Favorite song, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_jyafQe_2Do :thumbsup:

This is a list of all the Comanches available in Alabama. At least the ones that are listed on Craigslist. http://auburn.craigslist.org/cto/3330213687.html http://bham.craigslist.org/cto/3379920839.html http://bham.craigslist.org/cto/3280066261.html http://gadsden.craigslist.org/ctd/3387803642.html http://gadsden.craigslist.org/cto/3346585825.html http://dothan.craigslist.org/cto/3346689941.html http://shoals.craigslist.org/cto/3326575471.html http://huntsville.craigslist.org/cto/3340569489.html

Ya i had the same thought, except to tap into the Floor board lights instead of the B-Pillar. But either way i ended up figuring it out, tapped into the floor board light harness. Now that i know what to do its really easy, tomorrow i will take a few extra pictures and do another writeup. This go round I will make sure to write it so retards like my self can follow along without getting lost. Now that everything is working properly, my B pillar lights, Floor boards lights and mirror lights all come on when i open the door. When the door is closed i can still turn on the map lights individually, both vanity mirror lights and if i turn the knob on the headlight switch all the way over to the left all interior lights come on again. So I think I am pretty well set. :D Someday i will get those B pillar lights they have for sale on ebay, super nice and fairly cheap.

Alright, I had to go three pages back to find this cause i didnt want to start the same thread over again. So after getting everything setup and installed I can't get the stupid mirror to shut off. here is my wiring set up. . . White = intermittent/switched ground Black = constant ground Orange = constant power As you can see i have the black wire ran directly to the truck cab to be grounded Orange is ran to the vanity mirror lights power source, both vanity mirrors work. And the white wire is connected to two black wires, one for each door jamb button. This is a shot of the door jamb button pulled out with the wires visible. I figured that ALL of these wires act as an intermittent ground for one device or another, so i spliced in my white wire to one of the three wires seen here. It is the same on the other side as well. Now, with the setup as discribed the only way to get the light to turn off is by either A. unplugging the mirror. or B. unplugging the socket that connects the door jamb button to the inside of the truck. I had a brainstorm, and had the idea to check the already existing floor board lights. There are two wires running to each light, pretty simple, One hot One ground, or so i thought. I unplugged the light from the socket and used my test light to do my test. One of the two wires (pink) is hot all the time door open or closed. The other is dead, but not a ground with the door closed but hot when the door is open. Meaning both wires are hot with the door open. :hmm: If you can make heads or tails of this i could sure use your help.

Oh, my bad :oops: , every time i hear about someone doing a 97 swap all i can think about is how much firewall manipulation is needed. BUT for the doors the only thing that is different is the door strikes, these will have to be modified. can't say much about the rest.

ya, prepare for some serious mutilation of your fire wall, and when your done make sure to do a super thorough writeup (LOTS of pictures) so the rest of us can follow suite :thumbsup:

don't you also need the Clutch master?

A bad CPS will also produce a no start, i think.

Ya she is pretty sweet, but SHE is even sweeter, man I sure wish I could find a woman like that. :drool: I mean honestly.

If its free, why not?

That there is just unexceptable :shake: , but at least there are some decent kids still out there.

You guys are soo lucky, There is only one comanche within 75 square miles of me that is in a salvage yard and they want a fortune for the smallest thing off of it. I once made the mistake of actually paying $35 for a mirror that i later realized was broken and could not get a refund. :headpop:

So you think this is an actual problem? Not just how the thing works? And also the brakes are working fine, no hard pedal like the booster is going out. Maybe the check valve?

1986 toyota tercel wagon, 4x4 :brows: , 1.6l 4cyl This is a question that my dad wanted me to ask you guys, but since its not about an MJ i figured it would be most appropriate to put it here. so here goes. . . Now, when the car is sitting still just idling and you depress the brakes the engine begins to spit and sputter like it is running out of gas or being suffocated for air. As soon as you let off of the pedal all is well. The question is, Why does it do this? This has ZERO effect on performance of the vehicle while driving and I figure this is just how it works. Since the brakes are vacuum assited and the engine is very small, 1.6l, when the brakes are depressed it acts like there is a vacuum leak in the system. This is the only rational idea i could come up with. Again this is just a question out of curiosity, not a real problem. or at least i don't think it is. :crossfingers: I also have a little 1.9l isuzu pup that does the exact same thing at idle too. thanks guys :cheers: