aemsee

I have a 73 4dr beige AMC Hornet, factory 304, that loved to eat ricers. (engine being rebuilt currently). Nothing pisses off a wanna be more than to get smoked by grampa's car :D

Dead...Europe 72

Ohhh, that's what that is. I thought that it was a spark plug socket stuck on your spring bushing bolt.

What is that funny looking think in front of your muffler? Mine doesn't have that!! :D

Just find another vacuum reservoir from a JY. Doesn't have to be from a Jeep. Any will do.

That stud broke off while going down the road Umm, well half of it fell off when it broke. Where did the inner half go?

It is probably locked up due to the one wheel stud that is missing. Wedged btwn the hub halves.

There should be a vacuum line going in to the truck with manifold vacuum, the one coming back out would be for the heater control valve on the heater hose. If the valve is gone, well, there you are. Cap off the line and see if your stuff starts to work.

Didn't seem unusually thick, did it? Someone trying to cover up low oil pressure with gear oil?

Oh what the heck. Lets add more. Once again. Caster is referred to as ball joint inclination. It is the relationship between the upper and lower ball joints vs true vertical. If the upper joint is further back than the lower, this is positive caster. This is good for tracking, steering stability and return to center. Negative caster is just the opposite. Upper joint further forward than the lower. This is bad. Camber is the tilt of the wheel, top to bottom in relationship to the vehicle and true vertical. In at the top is negative, out at the top is positive. / \ would be negative, \ / would be positive. An old crude mechanic told me to remember it this way. When you ask your lady for sex, if her answer is a positive one, her legs will do this \ /, if it is negative, they will do this / \. Not exactly PC, but there was no PC 25 yrs ago :D . Since our trucks have solid axles, there is no built in adjustment for camber like a IFS vehicle may have. If it is at zero, and the wheel bolts to the hub, which bolts to the knuckle, which is hooked to the tube by the BJs, any change in caster by rotating the axle won't change camber because there was none to begin with. Take a old CD. Draw two dots on it 180 degrees apart. One is the upper BJ, the other is the lower. Hold the CD on edge perfectly vertical with the dots at 12 and 6 oclock. Now turn the dots to 1 and 7, It had no effect on the side to side tilt of the CD since it was at 0 degrees camber. IF there was a camber angle, it would be affected by a caster change slightly. I have seen shims to place between the hub and knuckle to change camber. This would be to correct something that is bent. Offset BJs would be the better method. I think you can get up to 1 1/2 degree offset. Anything more than that and you need to find the cause. As I said before. Get it on a machine and see what is really going on. Now if you want to get in to scrub radius, steering axis inclination, compliance steer......come to one of my classes. Chrysler Training Center Rochester NY :D Hey Brent, do you ever get over to the training center in Orlando for any reason?

Hard to tell from that picture. There is no camber adjustment per se on your truck (solid front axle), so a lift wouldn't change anything.. If there is a camber issue, you have something that is bent i.e. knuckle or axle tube, unless your friend put in offset ball joints. Get it on a machine and it will tell you.

Another way, instead of putting the socket on the bolt, take all the bolts out, place a socket between one of the outer u-joint yokes and the axle tube, then use the P/S the same way to pop out the hub. Same, just different :D

How did the t-case make the clutch go bad?

Where did the t-stat come from? Be very, very sure it is for a 4.0 and NOT a 4.2. The 4.2 is similar and will appear to fit just fine, but the 4.2 stat is just a tad longer and will bind on the 4.0 t-stat housing when tightened, not allowing it to open. The way to tell is the 4.2 stat is rounded where it goes in to the housing, and the 4.0 is pointed. (don't ask how I know this :wall: )

How's your PCV system? Don't want all your hard work to be for nothing.

When this works it is usually because one of the brushes is stuck and not touching the armature. Tapping the started makes the brush spring forward and make contact. Why it sometimes kills the starter is because if hit too hard in the wrong place, you can break the permanent magnets that are screwed or bonded to the housing. Most "bad" starters just need a good disassembled cleaning and new brushes.

Careful. I hear that Mike Vick started out fighten them rabbits, then move to the chickens, then the dogs. Just like crack. See where it got him! :D

If you were closer......keep us updated with pics.

Personally I find the waggy front ends very unappealing.

Mini--I like your truck and all, but is your grill in upside down? Maybe its just the lighting :D

I checked out the sherman parts site. They have cherokee and comanche pans listed as the same. Aren't XJ and MJ pans different?

I got a pair from e-bay last year, for a very good price. Haven't looked lately to see if the company still lists there.

Thanks Eagle. I like that idea.

This truck will stay mainly a road vehicle. With my wife driving it as well as myself. Wouldn't consider going without a sway bar. But it isn't needed (for now) as a DD, so I have the luxury of putting in the springs and playing around with the links.

I'm gathering stuff for a three inch lift on the MJ. Any thoughts on sway bar links? Can't afford disco's right now.