aemsee

What kind of CRD do you have?

Instead of spacers, you can either shim the steering stops or replace your stock LCA's with either aftermarket or modified WJ LCA's. The WJ arms are boxed and curved away from the tire. I ran the WJ arms on my 93 ZJ with 3" lift and 31x10.5. No rub and stronger arms. Wheel spacers move the centerline of the wheel out and will add to stress on the wheel bearings. If you wheel alot or live with lots of pothole roads, you may find them wearing out quickly.

I checked the 09 specs and no .50. They would have to change the number of teeth on the planetary sets for the ratio to change. You'll just have to go with taller tires :D

Yes the Ram 50 is a Mitsu pick up. The front is IFS, the rear is a third member set up, and fairly strong. Most of them came with 3.90 or 4.10 gears. 4x4 should have 6 lug wheels though.

Since I still work for Chrysler for another 34 days, I still have access to an employee database. There was NO stalking involved. There is nothing to see here folks, move along :D . I also told him of the pics of the truck on here, and invited him to check out the site. Again, no stalking. Most of us are somewhat sane. :thumbsup:

Well, I checked the internal Chrysler data base and S. Schramm (one of the names on the door)still works for Chrysler. I sent him an e-mail asking if he can share any info with us. I will update with any response I receive.

People on quaaludes should not type. :D . Trying to read texting speak gives me a headache :ack:

As a certified "Tread Lightly!" Master Trainer, I'll have to disagree with you. Tread Lightly means doing as little damage and leaving as little impact as possible -- including simply not going certain places if you can't go there without leaving a severe "footprint" (such as not driving across boggy terrain during the wet season, for example). It also means things like not driving with a heavier foot than necessary for the conditions, not straying off the prescribed trails, not making multiple detours around the detours -- all that good stuff. Tread Lightly! certainly doesn't encompass cutting down trees to unstuck yourself. If the only way to get out of somewhere is to cut vegetation, the Tread Lightly! approach would be ... don't go there. It's about being responsible stewards of the land, not only to preserve the environment but also to preserve whatever level of access to it we currently have. Irresponsible wheeling just gives the rabid tree huggers more reason to argue that we should never be allowed to wheel, anywhere, any time. You prove my point well Eagle. The definition you have for "Tread Lightly" as an off roader (which I agree with 1 million percent, by the way), would greatly exceed the "tread lightly" parameters we use in Scouting. And what we use as scouts would exceed what the people in charge of preserving areas like the Adirondack high peaks areas find acceptable. Don't get me wrong. I do not condone destroying any area of nature through misuse. I spend way more time hiking in the woods than driving in them. Without knowing anything about multipurpose, only taking what I saw in his post, it seemed like he was being set upon by a pack of pitbulls. If anyone here who goes off road can honestly say that they have never screwed up at some point in time wheeling, then :bowdown: . He admits to being a :fool: , but let him move forward, huh?

On another forum he stated that he had to cut down a tree to get it out. The unauthorized removal of vegetation WILL get trails shut down. That is NOT treading lightly and I don't think any mature wheeler should condone or defend this type of behavior. I have gotten myself into some really tight situations and had the wherewithal to use the R gear to backtrack and not make matters worse. Rant off. Well, that is not information we are privy to here, now is it? :dunno: The guy definitely FU'ed. No doubt about it, but a bunch of internet Mommy's isn't going to change that. But what it is going to cost to fix is truck probably will. And by the way," tread lightly" has MANY levels of definition depending upon whom you ask. The last peoples to live by that standard were driven off to reservations many years ago.

The 545 has a 1st gear of 3.00, OD 5th of .67. The 68rfe has a first gear of 3.23, OD 6th of .62 (rev is 4.44 :eek: ). Nothing approaching .50 for OD

Why???? It's the "I think I can make it....maybe....maybe....OH $#!&" scenarios why we have to take a 4hr drive to wheel. I guess I missed the part where he said this was land that he was not allowed to be on with his truck?? I also don't see where his truck will mess up the environment any worse than a pack of ATV's will.

Best holiday ever. Tons of food, beer, football (well, not the Lions) and NO GIFT GIVING!. :cheers:

Why are some of you guys being such tools? You know very little about the situation. If any of you has never been in the "I think I can make it....maybe....maybe....OH $#!&" scenario, then you need to wheel somewhere other than the mall :D . (JK guys). But really, the dudes truck is severely fubared, he is accepting responsibility , and it was one of those character builting things your Dad always told you about. :smart: Now, I want to see some pictures of the trail to see how "tough" it really was :yes:

A tech I know did a 5.7 hemi/ 545rfe swap from a wrecked ram in to a TJ. If it'll work in a TJ, should work in a MJ!

I agree with the quality of the RFE series. There were some issues a while back, but they were assembly problems, not design flaws. What were the problems that you had Eagle? A lot of early issues were due to a lack of knowledge by the techs on how the trans and computer worked. As for the question about separate trans controller or PCM controlled. Both yes. Depends on year and application. JTEC engine controller used separate EATX controller, NGC uses same box, but separate processors inside for engine/trans function. NGC4 has combined engine/trans processor. Now, if you are looking to install a RFE, there is a trans only NGC box in a 2500 Ram with a Cummins, but it is a 6 spd (68RFE). Rated for 850 lb/ft of torque. Should handle anything you need in a MJ :D .

Ya never know. To someone, it may just be a 32 year old Dodge PU, with stickers.

If you are sure that it is starting related to wiggling the wiring, pull the relays back out and verify that there are no spread or corroded terminals in the harness. This should involve either removing the wires from the connectors one at a time and slipping them on to the relay terminals to check tightness, or you could sacrifice one of the old relays by breaking it open and pulling off one of the terminals and using it to gauge the tightness of the connectors. There should be drag between the male and female wiring terminals. Also look for any corrosion .

2bbl, huh? I was under the impression that it had the Little Red Express engine in it. I had to rebuild a couple of those and they were put together with MOPAR performance parts. But they were all sporting Thermoquads.

That would be "snow" southern boy. A form that liquid H2O takes when ambient temps reach a part of the thermometer that you have never used. Can be just as challenging as mud to wheel in, but it doesn't need to be washed off. It will eventually go away on it's own. :D

Warlocks are uber cool, and rarer than MJ's. I'ld go for the Dodge depending on condition.

Got an Apple store near you? PS. I love my little Shuffle. People couldn't believe that is all I wanted. No videos, no screen. Just my music

I've used second hand gears numerous times. Ran used 4.10's in my ZJ for 40K miles. If you go from 3.07 to 3.55, you can reuse your carrier. Above that you need a new carrier and it adds to your cost. If you look at the end of the pinion, there will be a variance marking. Either (+) or (-) . There is a chart to put in the original pinion variance and the new pinion variance, and it will tell you how much shim you need to add or subtract to your new pinion. This will give you your pinion depth. If you are reusing the carrier. I would start with the original shims and check backlash and pattern, and adjust accordingly. If it is a new carrier, and you don't have the special tools to determine side clearance, be prepared to pull the carrier numerous times. A case spreader is often necessary for this. If you are still determined to try this yourself, get a good book with illustrations. And some gear marking compound and pattern your old set before you take them out, drive and coast sides, so you have something to compare your new set up to.

We used to index the distributor on high mileage motors that showed signs of timing chain stretch. I had (still have) a dist cap with a window cut out at #1 terminal. Remove the ears and align the tail of the rotor with the post. We did this to correct misfires and bucking. Always seemed to work.

As it sits. You did nothing to it? $150!!!! You may go to jail. Go directly to jail. Do not collect $200. Holy crapola Batman. What a deal.

We've gotton a solid foot over the last 5 or 6 days. Alot melted today though