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Everything posted by aemsee
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Those wheels look like they are 15 x 8's. If they are they are worth more than $100. Is it a 4.0 or a 2.5?
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Mine is currently silver and burgundy. Thinking of that Deep Slate they did the 5.9 limiteds in.
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I will be out in Detroit in sept for our annual instructor conference. My boss has some connections there (we work for Chrysler) and I will try to get in and snap some pics.
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Actually found a rust free box in NY. Listed on CL as a Cherokee box. Right around the corner from where I work. Have to fix some wheel opening butchery, and some damage due to it being put down on the bottom of the sides instead of upside down. But no rot and for a very good price for up here in rustville. Now I have a good reason to get cracking on the rocker repair.
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What do the plugs look like when you pull them out? Wet with fuel or dry? Does it try to fire at all, or just spin fast and dead? How long did it sit? Could the fuel just have gone bad? I am also not sure what scanner would tell of a faulty fuel pump. There is no electronic feedback system that the scanner can read concerning the fuel pump. Trying the other TB might not be a bad idea. A bad IAC could give you a no start condition and it is a easy swap to try. Even when you get it running that 50 psi cylinder is going to be an issue.
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Is that a ghey bar?
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+++++++++++++ :brows: What a great idea
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Usually my XD9 or S&W's, SW40VE & 10-5 snubby. But my P3AT gets to play occasionally as well. Really need to buy another 10mm soon.
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I would be interested in it, but not for 5 bills!! :eek:
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You are about right with the 3 1/2 qts, but the longer you leave the drainplug out, the more will drain out of the TC, and out of the trans. The more the better. Pull the plug and let it drain overnight.
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meandering thread alert!!!!
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If it is for a trail spare, plug away.
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with the higher temps you have down in Ga, you could experience some damaging engine detonation without one installed. The EGR reduces NOx by lowering combustion chamber temps.
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they are good cars, and the engines are decent. but on that design the cat is right by the timing cover so it heats the oil and burns it basically into the timing cover/ chain area. now as soon as you remove the timing cover for work, carbon falls directly into the oil pan and will not get out and you motor is screwed. the same engine is availbe in chargers and 300's in rwd. they are simple to work on and no sludge problems like those years. You're close jared. The cats in the LH body are below the cyl heads in the engine compartments. These engines have poorly designed oiling networks, especially for the cyl heads. BUT, adding an external oil cooler goes a long way. LH's that had oil coolers installed from the factory didn't have the sludge problems. Just as JR bodies from the same years, with the same engine, with SMALLER engine bays didn't have the sludge problems. They came with oil coolers, and no cats under the heads.
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There is nothing similar between the GM 2.5 Iron Duke and the 2.5 AMC engine, other than approximate displacement.
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My Jeeps always run much better after I wax them, too :D . Not a fan of motor flushes. Seen many that died soon after having them done, but realistically, they were bound to die anyhow because of the sludge. The flush just kinda helped 'em along.
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You don't think that the 2.5 in your Fiero is the same a s the AMC 2.5? They are totally different engines.
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highly doubt fuel pump. Fuel pressure issues will usually have a stumble or stutter before die out. And don't normally start right back up. Sounds as though could be more of an electrical thing, or IAC issue. Is 90 2.5 still TBI, or was it switched to multiport by then? If still TBI, then you don't have an airflow type IAC, but a stepper motor. These were very problematic and would cause a off the gas stall out like you describe.
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May also depend on gear ratios. There is a break/change in carrier sizes. I THINK it is 3.55 down and 3.73 and up are different size carriers
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aemsee=A.M.C. The little company that could. Well, until Renault got ahold of them.
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Jack the rear wheels off the ground. With it in gear (so the drive shaft won't turn) spin one rear wheel. If it is open, the other wheel will spin in the opposite direction. If it is limited slip, the wheel won't turn. I did a moderate amount of wheeling with a D35 and limited slip in my 93ZJ, with 31x10.5's. If you keep the tire size down, and are not insane with the gas pedal, you'll be OK. People make it sound like D35's just explode as soon as you drive off the pavement. It can be a weak link, but there always is one of those, isn't there? :D
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Remember to check your PCV orifice. A plugged orifice will cause numerous leaks to appear.
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There are numerous post on the gun forums I belong to. The gun had been modified to fire full auto. There was a selector switch. The guys nads are in a vice.
