aemsee

Started out just intending to pull my ign cyl and free it up. Was getting pretty darn stiff. Simple 20 miute job. Except when you drop the key buzzer spring thing down the column. :wall: . I spent a hour at least looking down that column trying to find that damn thing. No luck. So out it comes. Took the opportunity to clean and grease everything, tighten up a loose wobbly dimmer lever, peel the rest of the chrome off my wiper stalk and paint it, and of course REPLACE the cylinder ( I assumed that this was a sign to not be so cheap). Got it back together in time for me to fly out to Detroit for work. Hopefully I tightened everything up as my wife will surely be driving it while I'm gone. :D If I get over to the Walter P museum I'll give 'em more crap about the mystery Comanche they have hidden in the back room. :brows:

No, that color is "earth tone"

Where superwade has the bolt and nut is where I put the deep socket. Yes, take the three hub bolts all the way out. If you do it this way you can leave the axle nut off if you want.

No,NO,No....leave the three hub bolts out. Put the AXLE nut back on if you are planning on beating on the hub/rotor or use a puller. The outer stub shaft and axle nut keep the hub together. The socket goes in between the outer axle u-joint ear and the edge of the axle housing tube.

Rotate the axle so that the out stub shaft u-joint ears are horizontal. Put a deep socket between the yoke ear and the axle tube. Start the engine and turn the steering wheel toward the socket. let the P/S pop out the hub.

Put the axle nuts back on. That is holding the hub together. Any force you use to remove the hub will split the hub and ruin it.

nice looking rig for $150! (Get your subject line from Grosse Pointe Blank?)

If you are truely idling at 1500 due to a vacuum leak, that would also affect your MAP sensor causing an overly rich mixture. My 87 2.5, 4x4, AW4 with 4.56 gears averages around 22 mpg. That includes my wife using it as a lawn and garden hauling device. ( Her way of telling me to fix her wheelbarrow tire :D ). Of course that auto keeps me from hammering on it, cause it just gets louder with no faster acceleration. I also don't drive over 55 with it.

Nice job

Look closer, probably 225/75/15. If it was originally equipped with 205's, then you are traveling a bit further than the odometer is showing. (also traveling faster than the speedo is showing).

Is that a recap tire?

Hmm...still don't get it. 23 as in 23x7x15? That would be a damn short tire. What am I missing here?

not really related to your fuel thing, but what are 23 tires?

Only one response for that...let me introduce you to my little friend..

Was it noisy? There is some wiggle to the input shaft normally. The pilot bushing/bearing in the flywheel keeps things straight. It isn't a tapered roller so it isn't normally preloaded. There may be nothing wrong with it. How "loose" is it? Maybe someone has one sitting around and they can compare amount of play for you.

Me either, people are a pretty stupid bunch. Course, I would have hoped that by now I displayed a level of technical competency that would make you realize it was a joke - and moreover, not me who made that. Never even looked at the original poster Sam. Was too overcome by the flexy pipe pics, and figuring how long that contraption would take to ignite an oil spewing Jeep motor :D

I am no longer surprised by the stupidity of people. Why would I not think you were trying to make your own killer exhaust? :D

If it's not running because the carb flooded out, adding more fuel in the form of starting fluid won't make it run. Flooded is flooded. Pull them plugs and see if they are wet. How close are you to Auburn Hills? I'll be there for a conference aug 29th to oct 3rd. Those carbs are crap. Chec on some GM sites for a conversion to a roch 2 jet or something like that.

IMO, 4 cyl Jeep + performance is just an oxymoron. Especially if you are Renix. I wouldn't even go any further with that project. Sorry to be negative, but it is what it is.

:cheers:

Close up the windows on your truck. Run the blower fan on high, NOT on recirc. Spray the suspect areas under the hood with soapy water, just like looking for a leak in a tire. It will bubble where ever the pressurized air is leaking out of your cabin. You may need to seal off the exhausters behind the door depending how small the leak is.

Most of the problems I've seen with the H4 set ups is lack of refinement in the reflector causing poor light pattern. I definitly need to do something as well. Of course since the 'manche isn't a DD I never think about it until it is dark while I'm driving it and realize I can't see $#!&.

Always wanted to do a removeable top on my ZJ like a Blazer, but figured it would cost too much to have someone make a canvas top for it.

You need to find a mechanical oil pressure guage to screw in where the ops is. If it is really dropping that low there is a problem.

Dude, whats with the creepy face in the back window of the 'manche? Is that thing haunted?