Jeep Driver

If you have a 2W MJ now you'll need the entire transmission from the XJ.........no adapter.

Back in time about 200 years.

Not to go off in a different direction............ I mentioned SuperCaps, there are tons of vids on this, guys are running their cars on these. What interests me is- I wonder if a 12v bank would neutralize or destress an electrical system?

They're all exactly the same

Then is is your cheapest route........and most mindless too, IOWs, you won't have to think about it, it will just function. Just make sure that whatever you want to use with engine off is tied only to battery B.

The Aussies have figured this out, overland, check out some of their off-road sites. There are likely 6 different ways to do this and do it right for a multitude of purposes. You can use an oil pressure switch to activate a solenoid, engine running- A and B are connected, engine off- B is isolated. Switch on dash completes the same ground circuit to activate B for self-recovery. I intend to build an overland teardrop trailer for my truck, batteries, charger, inverter, and small generator............all makes dual batteries in the truck pointless. Switch- if you are doing something to consume power intentionally anyway such as running a wench or other.......turning a switch is not a big deal. Doing it and doing it right is not a 'tinkerers' project. It's going to be expensive. Two decent deep cycle batteries, inverter, cable, solenoid, lugs, switch......ect.......$1500++ Suggestion- get a good high performance alt and high-end deep cycle battery, see XS Power. That alone will set you back a $grand. Get a good marine deep cycle to throw in the back of the truck with inverter and run your $#!& for the day and be done with it. If you want to talk serious recovery power- bank of SuperCaps..........that's another discussion.

Leave it at 1+2 for normal operation. Switch to desired battery for engine off long play. Switch to opposite battery for self recovery. Switch back to 1+2 for engine run. And I'd use 12v plugs front and rear for jumper cables, add jumper cable end to inverter, use inverter at will. I'd not mount inverter. https://www.westmarine.com/buy/blue-sea-systems--e-series-compact-battery-switch-off-1-both-2-no-alt-field-disc--3831393?mrkgcl=481&mrkgadid=3202694843&cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC%20-%20Product%20Type-_-3831393&product_id=3831393&adpos=1o5&creative=108421552324&device=c&matchtype=&network=g&gclid=CjwKCAjwoMPcBRAWEiwAiAqZh1qJlxP1KVELO8siLsZD-9e7U8h1XQBJa1LHfCiUdrwEtCCIQTvw8hoCNJgQAvD_BwE

Mini gauge on the A-pillar.

Jump to 3:00. Create a standalone speedo, plug it in when you want to use it, stick it to the dash or windshield. And BS on GPS fail, I use GPS all the time here in the mountains and rarely find any dead spots. As for burying your current speedo? who cares? You'll find multiple examples of GPS speedos on YT, all very smooth and accurate.

Go to a body shop supply house..........ie..........automotive paint store.

You are correct and this has been stated here before. Below is what a formula looks like, you have the code now, assumably, now you need to find someone who has the formula. 'Low gloss' will likely come as a basecoat, no clear, you may need clear, likely you will. Depends on who makes it up for you and how. If it comes as a single stage you need to make sure you got your primer color right, one rattler ain't going to get you far if they make up base/metallic with clear added as a touch-up paint. If anyone was going to be helpful at all here they'd start a forum or a page whereas owners can post their formulas for others. I just bought a quart of black today, enough to make nearly 1/2 gallon of product for $39. I just looked on ebay, custom mixed rattlers are about the same price for 10-12 oz.

Possibly. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/41612/10002/-1?CAWELAID=1710606761&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=39714413703&CATCI=aud-295441112107:pla-457013474803&CATARGETID=230006180040357460&cadevice=c&jegspromo=nonbrand&gclid=CjwKCAjw2rjcBRBuEiwAheKeL-ce-PoXikMq2i_-1kdj4UJ5dih1l6GaYtZiGGeFQrY3_Ew5Yka4hhoC6AgQAvD_BwE

He's using a TH350........don't know, think not, that the sender will fit. Chevy sender will likely have differing values. Cobbling. Somersaults.

Spend time, energy, and money on that front end before you approach 120.

Sounds to me like there are a few cheerleaders here that are more than willing to foot his bill. Since I'm the Debbie here.............. Well, one of us has to be reasonably intelligent, might as well be me.

HO sensor runs through the ECU if I'm not mistaken, and since you are eliminating stock ECUs of any kind..........moot. I too will be going SBC, learned my lesson the hard way. I'll have $12-15K in my engine alone if I'm able to pull off what I want. I want accurate and reliable information. If you want accurate and reliable gauges in a stock configuration- Dakota Digital is your only possible option. I'll tell you what they told me- "Send us the complete stock cluster and we'll get back to you in 6 months". Their verbal quote was $1600. There is always a trade-off.........you choose.

Create your own.

You can't be more creative than that? There are a few nice trucks close to home for $3-4K that he can drive home with no drama, no reason to be a burden on anyone else. That northern rust bucket will cost him every penny of that by the he gets it home. Uhaul truck and tow dolly cost me $1300 plus fuel, Tampa to Knoxville, that was 10 years ago. Or he's gotta find a buddy with truck and trailer to come drag him home. Or course, I give the opposing POV. Hell, according to Eagle it ain't worth $500, if it ain't worth that it ain't worth dragging 1000 miles.

There's no point in debating what makes a free market economy, that said- I paid $2500 for mine, I cannot buy mine again for under $3500. I paid for rust-free, relatively straight, running. It's not up to me or you to determine the value of anything, buyers and sellers determine value. You say that truck is worth $500, yet someone will be more than willing to pay $500 for a straight and rust-free bed, the box alone will be worth more than $500 if a buyer can find one. Tail lights, stock tail lights, NOS ain't worth $.50 to me but to someone else they are worth $500, someone has paid $500. It's not up to me to determine what tail lights are worth, it's up to someone with strong desire for them to determine if they are worth $500. Would I pay $1000 for a straight rust-free carcass? just the cab and box, no engine, no trans, just the carcass??? You bet, like yesterday, hell, keep the axles even. And in retrospect, that exactly how I'd approach a new project today, live and learn. What has value to me may have no value to you, it's value that determines price.

Excellent, really nice!

15 years ago- We paid $1.69 for a loaf of bread, that same loaf of bread now costs $3.18. Demand, inventory, value of the dollar, thriving economy, seller's attitude........it's all relevant. What is not relevant is what someone did 15 years ago. OP, there is a 99% chance that truck will never make the trip on it's own, be prepared. I'd never drag a northern vehicle to the south anyway. Find something in your area and save yourself the aggravation.

The interior color is a giveaway It doesn't have C 101 connection above the master cylinder What I could not see is the hood latch will be in the center of an 86 all other years have two Hood latches one on each side of the hood

It's an 86 not an 88