Jeep Driver

Yep, General is good. Ask about the military wrap if you can get one, very happy with mine.

You didn't go far enough.

Disconnecting it is not a halfassed anything.......it's an evaluation. Now, you've evaluated. Idle motor is controlled by the ECU, ECU receives information from three sources, temp, AC, and power steering pressure switch. ECU idles-up when AC is on, when it's cold, when the PSPS senses high pressure during a low-speed turn. That's what it does. Does the system operate anything what you might be used to in a more modern vehicle? No, it's not nearly as responsive. Now that mine works- At cold start- Idle jumps to 1900rpm for 30 seconds, idle comes down to 1100rpm for 30 seconds, then settles down to around 700rpm and remains. That's it. I did have and do have AC, with AC running idle was unaffected, I replaced PS hose and eliminated the PSPS long ago and again idle was unaffected. If your engine is running properly the idle control motor is of little effect. What I did was save you $100 and about 2 hours of aggravation only for you realize the stepper motor was not your problem. You have to be tech savvy enough and at the same time old-school enough to work through these problems, sometimes it's intuitive and other times it a process of elimination. It's obvious you have a massive vacuum leak. Could be EGR, could be cracked vacuum lines, could be bad/worn TBI...........could be filthy, could be bad temp sensor, could be wiring issues, could be intake/exhaust gasket, could be TBI gasket, could be cracked intake (although unlikely).......you'll have to go through it all.

Tonight- Typical JK A-hole, not brights but cheap LEDs. All the time round here, super annoyance, peeve.

Yes, 90 is the same as 88

NOT Home Despot. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-afpr1/overview/

Yellow should be ignition and should be hot in start position. Green wire is starter wire and should also be hot in the start position. Brown should be hot in acc then not hot in start but hot again in run.

OP, The point of you stripping the front end is to make it as easy as possible for the frame guy to do his job. Make it easy for him to measure and attach chains and so forth......this is how you save money. Not only that you are more likely to get the body shop to work with you........you make it easy on them and they make it easy on you. And yes, looks like the truck is worth saving. It's never as bad as you think once you actually dig in.

OP, If it were me, assuming no rust and truck is otherwise in good shape............ Remove the hood, fenders...etc........strip the entire front end.......I'd even pull the engine and trans right there at home. It's probably not as bad as it looks now, not really. Have it towed to a body shop, have them straighten the frame- $200 in towing both ways and $1200 to straighten frame. Now all those parts that are damaged can be sourced from an XJ. Other than finished body work and paint you can be driving it for around $2000.........then paint at your leisure.

This is why it needs to go on a frame machine and be straightened. The original sub-frame will be stronger if straightened and reinforced than for some jackwad to take a sawsall to it.

NAPA Chassis. I'll never buy Moog again.

Yep. You can do whatever you want- rule of thumb- make it look finished and intentional.

After it is straight have them weld on this or something similar- http://www.t-mfab.com/store-3/?model_number=3896750

That sub-frame can be salvaged, no I would not cut and weld. You need to find a COMPETENT body shop with a frame machine and a guy who knows what he's doing. And no, it won't be cheap.

Once you unplug it it becomes nothing more than an adjustment screw. I don't think this is your problem anyway but this is how you will eliminate it as the source of the problem.

OK. Post link to the Crown. Then unplug it, adjust to idle.

Unplug the stepper and forget about it. The plunger will thread in, adjust it to a fixed idle speed. The stepper is available, BWD, it's a total POS, don't bother. You will not find it listed for a Comanche, it will be listed for a 89 Cadillac Coupe de Ville, IIRC. My stepper actually works but it's new NOS on a NOS TBI, but I drove it for years with no stepper.

He has the 2.5 1990 would still be TBI and I doubt it his stepper motor.

There is coolant in the intake......it's a heated intake.

Needs caps.

Don't be confused. Renix 2.5 has two temp sensors/senders, one in the intake and one in the head. He's looking for the one in the intake- to ECU.