Jeep Driver

I've run both 235/75R15s and 30x9.50R15s. They are essentially the same diameter, but the 30s are just a slight bit wider. The 235s gave me no problems. The 30s rubbed on the lower control arms when the steering was cranked over to full lock. The rub wasn't bad ... and I've also run 31x10.50s on stock rims, with more rub than the 30s. But for zero rubbing, 235/75-15 is the largest size you acn run rub-free (unless you change out the lower control arms for WJ arms). Anyone got any pics or details on the WJ arms?

What's the WMS to WMS on the Rodeo rear? Can the axles be swapped for 4.5x5?

Ravines.

Yeah thanks.............I'm looking for wider. Just wondered if anyone had any interference problems?

I'm referring to 255-70-15 Height is 29.6 and the thread width should be around 9".

I'm looking for more meat not more height. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp ... l=Outlined White Letters&partnum=67SR5GRAT2OWL&tab=Specs Anyone have any luck going outside of the typical off-road sizes?

Today is the Sabbath and I souldn't have but....... I dropped the TB today to determine what to do with the mount and as it turns out the TB is completely warn out, new Moog bar. Thank God I did as it may have not lasted much longer. Advance has a Driveworks coming in for me this afternoon, getting a cheapy until I go double shear. Have any of you had one fall out on you?

I got my patterns cut and mig set up. Now I just need someone to buy me some steel and give me some time. :0

BTW......... You can bake paint to metals......the 2000 was the best but the 500 will work also. Spray then place in oven before cure.....400-450 degrees for 20 minutes.....let cool. If your wife can tolerated it. :) Very tough finish. I baked automotive grade paints this way too...acrylics.

I used the Duplicolor 500 engine paint. They used to make a 2000 degree paint that was excellent and I can't find it now. To do the raised letter.......putty knife rapped tightly with a thin t-shirt material then spray paint in a puddle and dab knife/material and then dab letters lightly. I tried a rubber roller but that didn't carry enough paint........unlike ink paint won't hang onto the rubber. To give an 'aluminum' appearance.........spray with chrome paint then again with clear......acrylic clear.

Thanks. Any ideas on coil springs and shackles?

Pics?

Thanks but the wallow is at the frame mount not the axle mount. I could weld it up and ream it out but I need a reamer, I could get a used mount at the PnP for about $8 and I may go that route. I like the idea of the double shear though.....just makes better sense. Help me out here......I don't want any lift but as I said I would like 31s so maybe the 1" would be good for me anyway. I'd like to find springs that would offer the inch in the front and decent shackles for the rear. Any of you lift guys got any ideas?

http://ironrockoffroad.com/Merchant2/me ... y_Code=PFX I have some wallow in my TB mount and I'm thinking of going double shear. I have stock height although I may go minimal clearance in the future with 31s. Is the above bar a good one? States 1-5" of lift...........can I simply trim the bar a 1/2" or so if necessary to get back to 0" lift? Thanks.

I have had the rad drained a few times now. Once completely drained the Tstat will not allow coolant to flow and it will overheat quickly. What works for me is to fill the rad and then idle until heat approaches 220 or so then shut down, this will allow the stat to heat up enough to open. Restart after a couple of minutes, repeat until stat opens.

No PS? can't imagine that.

I wish the seat fairy would swing by and swap my bench for a couple of nice buckets..........tan please.

I was waiting for someone else to comment....... I know full well what he did, he used the bolt to draw up the HB. Either the HB was not aligned or the bolt was cross threaded, either way he stripped the threads out. How's he gonna fix it? I know what I would do.......but then I'm not an animal that would have done what he did. You know if things aren't going well.......ya stop and have a smoke and come back to it in a few minutes....but no, some guys just plow ahead.

I don't trust mechanics. Oh boy.

Grounds probably.

SPAL is online and can be sourced. If you have the $140 they are the way to go.......controls both fans and are adjustable and are soft-start. BTW the Hayden fans are good.......never had a problem.

Those controllers suck @$$, I went through three of them on my other truck. I drove the last year with it with no fan at all cause I wasnt' gonna pay another $50 for another POS controller. Use OEM sender or run relay off ignition source............trigger wire to any ignition source and when engine in running so is the fan. If wiring off sender you still use ignition source as trigger and sender (ground) as secondary trigger.

I went to 105 amp from an 88 Caprice. I read others have luck with 94 Dakota. And yeah if you run e-fan or amp or other devices it helps a lot.

For some of us it's the turd we got to work with.

What about the O2 sensor and EGR tube? Where do those go? Can't find a header for a RENIX. Borla, yes they do. http://www.quadratec.com/products/17601_03_07.htm