Jeep Driver

Edit.

No PCV in mine. Elbow is sold at Advance. I used a piece of 1/2" copper coupling inside the elbow to aid in providing internal pressure against the valve cover......tighter fit. I also used Ultra Black to seal the elbow. Months now and no seepage anywhere. Do yourself a favor and get rid of the air box......for the 2.5 it is utterly a POS. Edit: The rear vacuum connection is 4.0......it's all they could order for me........should be the same for you......dealer part. The front elbow is the same size also.........just different style.

Yeah.........that's what I want to know. The chain is so lose it slaps the case a low speed. When in 4x you can hear the chain pop off the teeth. I just want to replace the entire case.

Pull-a-Part shows 3 96 XJs and I need to replace the TC in my wifes 97, will the 96 swap on the 97? It's a long trip out for me to the PnP........that's why I'm asking. Also.......any difference between a XJ and a ZJ 231? Thanks

I'll answer one of your questions..................Plywood.

Yep, works the same.

You searched for VIN : 1J7FJ36L5KL478035 This vehicle's data: Country of Manufacture United States Manufacturer Jeep Corporation Powertrain 3-speed automatic, column gear shift, Select-Trac/ 4 W/D Assembly Plant Toledo South Plant, Ohio, USA Engine 4.0L Model Year 1989 Read more: http://www.jeepz.com...p#ixzz280d6s4Fp

Never heard of it myself.

Good, better yet. Actually I didn't pay attention to that.

Convert to the external slave. Ask how many here have swapped out the internal multiple times.

Wow! couldn't imagine the holes in the cab.

Mount your relay in the engine bay. Wire hot from bat to relay, wire lights to relay, ground, run trigger wire from dash to relay, trigger from any acc wire or fuse block. Your relay IS the switch. All wires should be 12g min except trigger (16g OK). Keep all wires short as possible. Wire each light separate to the relay.......don't' run one wire to one light tapping off the first light to run the second light. Trigger wire only activates the relay and draws virtually no current. You are blowing a fuse because of too much draw.

Pure1 and straight 40W

The Chrysler mark near the CTS is like a billboard.....lol AMC in 88. I have owned a 89 that had a mix of AMC and Chrysler parts. IIRC Chrysler bought out in 89..........90 and up is all Chrysler.

That's not an '88 block as NAPA told you. See first pic above.

BTW, if your engine stumbles at idle when you step on the brake you are losing vacuum......lots of it. Either hose bad or the bladder in the booster is torn. The comment of the faulty booster seemed to get glossed over.

The brake booster operates on vacuum supplied by the engine, how on earth would you know if the brakes feel right or not without the engine running? Guys bleed brakes different ways. I've heard of folks gravity bleeding, just open a bleeder and let it drip for 10-15 minutes........not very effective IMO. Others vaccum bleed......I recently bought a vaccum bleeder and have yet to try it.........guess it's about the only real way to do when you have no helper.........I have a wife. I've bled dozens and dozens of brakes on dozens of vehicles over the last thirty years.......always with a helper and always with the engine running. Helper pumps three times....I say "let off".......open bleeder.....say 'to floor'..........close bleeder........'pump'...open bleeder......'to floor'.......close bleeder............ Repeat until air is clear and fluid is clear. Repeat until pedal 'feels' right. Also, if you have rear drums you want to make sure that the rears are adusted correctly after you bleed.

Engine running when bleeding and no you don't remove the vacuum hose. Bleed right rear, then left rear, then right front, then left front. Sounds like a faulty booster..

Cleanliness is next to godliness...........so they say.

The sender should be 1/8" NPT.........if you got an earlier sender it maybe metric........just a guess as to why it won't fit. NAPA sells the vacuum harness and I don't know if the map tube is included however you can make your own.

Don't know what's going on with yours or why............

BTW have you checked for condensaton in the distributor cap?

You said the exhaust smells rich that that tells me that you are not burning off the gas. Also you smell oil or oil being burned off. If all 6 plugs look tan and all six look similar then all cylinders are firing. If one looks fouled, covered with oil, smell of gas...........either the wire is bad or the plug is bad or you have a mechanical problem. The plugs will tell you whats going on inside.

You're welcome. :) I work out of my truck. Keys stay in the ignition, doors stay open, radio stays on.