Jeep Driver

Is the variation in idle a rhythmic up and down by 2-300 rpm? If so, replace your TPS.

Yeah, about 3" longer IIRC. The AX5 that is waiting to go in my truck came from a Wrangler, I discarded the shifter otherwise I'd measure it for you.

You can simply replace your throttle cable........or......... go high tech. http://www.kartek.com/Product/72/Cable-Morse-Ball-Joint-End.aspx Use pliers to crush and destroy existing plastic end or cut off....assuming you have enough threaded adjustment for length in the cable at the cable mount. Silver solder or epoxy new end on. These ends may be available at hobby shops that specialize in 1/4 scale RC......or look to web........or look to lawn tractor shops such as Cub Cadet, these are used for trans and throttle links. May have to drill out the threads on the joint to get a slip fit over your existing cable rod. There are other rod ends but you may have to remove your TB to get that pressed in ball cut off and drilled out to replace the ball end.

That does not exactly look like an optimal donor for a 2.5 to 4.0 swap. How do you know it even runs?

Unplug it and see if the stumble goes away.

Thanks for the info! What's the down side to the 28 spline? I won't be twisting any axles with the 2.5.

Couple of weeks ago I had Oreilly warranty another TPS for me, I swapped in the parking lot on my way to a job, I just guessed at it's position. My truck is running so damn perfect right now I don't dare to adjust anything to spec. :P

This would rock my world, but who's got $4K for a rear end? LOL

I have the 2.5. What I have been looking for, casually, looking for a rear axle that will serve two purposes or at least one of the two. I want a locker, the Aussie can be had for about $300. I'd replace seals, strip and paint housing, install new cover if not a 9", I'd also like to convert to discs. I do not what to put any money into the 35c. The second thing I'm looking for.....I'd like to find a housing with about 63" WMS to WMS, this would move the tires out on the back of the MJ without the use of spacers. From what I can find out......some of the Mustangs had a 63" rear and maybe the Falcon?? I cannot find much useful info on the web as most people use 'track' width and not WMS width. I went to the PnP to look around and measure, nothing really struck me as something that would work. Most of the Ford 8.8 from the Explorers have offset pinions by nearly 4" to the passenger side.....screw that $#!&.

Also, if you are using a borrowed trailer, know that most trailer lights are $#!&. Sockets corrode, ground out......just simply fail. And that in and of itself may be your problem. If you can swing it, get a pair of sealed LED lights........yeah......like $50 for the pair........really like mine, nice and bright.

So you don't have a trailer to plug into? Are you using a borrowed trailer to test? Are you assuming that the borrowed trailer is wired correctly? Is the harness on both sides grounded well? Did you clean the ground at the rear yet? When you get YOUR trailer......take it step by step......every connection....or splice.........all the way to the trailer lights and test each wire. Might even consider rewiring your trailer. I'm going to rewire mine AGAIN, this time I'm using a 50' 16g extension cord. Will have three wires, turn/brake, running, ground. The trailer wire will wear and ground out after a while, the extension cord will be a lot tougher.

Do you own a test light?

You need a HD flasher..........yours will NOT power the additional lights. Mine won't work with the trailer plugged in either.....but I don't care. From what I gather from your post....all works BUT the flashers with lights on....correct?

AX15 Yeah, I got find a day to get back there.

The one I saw at the PnP was a 98 with a 2.5 and I'm pretty sure it was an 8.25. I did measure the width and now I forget what it was but I dismissed it because of the 6 lug.........but later thought it might be 4.10

The above 9" Ford is selling for $200. Let's assume it has 4.10s. Seller states 61" WMS to WMS. Why could I not order 5 on 4.5 axles and replace the drums or go to discs? I was also thinking about measuring a Dakota 8.25...........why not just swap axles out?

Mines done this for as long as i've owned it. Never really payed it much attention because i've never been able to actually pin-point it. Never really thought the control arms would be making the noise, I'll have to give them a check I replaced all my control arms a little more than a year and a half ago. For the last six months I've had a 'rattle', sounds and feels like the passenger UCA. Only happens when I drive over ripples in the road. When I can afford it I'll replace them all again.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/87-02-2-5-Jeep-Cherokee-Comanche-Thermostat-Housing-/400089729396?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d2734c974&vxp=mtr

Does it physically feel stiff at the shifter or does it feel stiff inside the trans? I have been through 4 clutch masters, I think I fixed it this time. From my experience if the master/slave is not working perfectly, not having enough throw to FULLY disengage the clutch, it does make it more difficult to shift.

The more it runs the more it heats, the more it heats the more it condensates, the more it condensates...............need I say? Most 20 gal compressors will maintain about 5.6cfm at 40psi. The last thing you want to do is run out of air half way though a panel or have it start spitting water. Since he in inquiring about a $200 compressor I doubt he'll be in the market for a $4K dryer. Look to the 175psi craftsman.......less volume but a little more compressed air to work with.

Yes and no. If you are spraying a bumper or an axle or a Xmember or....... then yes. If you are spraying a door panel or a hood........no. You'll need 60gal and up. You'll just simply run out of air. Also, get a couple of the cheap air filters, they are like $5, you add it in-line at the gun.

] ] RL] $40 at Lowes. Makes a great little pressure cleaner too. ] I have the big one too but I haven't used it yet.

I did not know about Hesco........thanks. Dealer? who'd a thunk? Really, never considered that.

At this very moment....... I just did the pan of water test with the 195 stat that was in my truck, did not open till after 200 degrees.......like 205+. I installed the Spal switch the other night and all was right with the world until I realized that the fan was not shutting off while driving. I picked up a 180 today, tested it with the 195 and it seems to open around 185+. My wife's cooking thermometer does not read in full increments so it's hard to be exact. I'd like to find a stat other than Stant brand.........inconsistent. Anyone know of another brand?

AMC/Jeep 2.5L four cylinder, ported head, YellaTerra roller tip rockers, MP cam 248/248-32-.440/.440(Phase II), Banks Torque Tube header, '95 MPI intake, will run '93 OBDI MPI, built by Duffin Engine Service, SATX. http://4bangerjp.com/forums/index.php?topic=9530.0