Jeep Driver

I also have the 88 2.5. If you want it to run right......... Systematically go through and replace EVERY sensor, clean every ground and connection, add grounds. Try to find Denso, Elchin, Standard, stay away from BWD...........also consider NAPA Premium parts such as brass distributor cap and rotor.......Belden wires are good also....... I had a fuel pump relay that would go out intermittently also.....similar to what you describe........but I agree with Eagle........start with CPS. BTW........what I stated above......will run you about $350 and will take about 9 hours worth of work if you did it all at once.........best money and time you will spend. Also, clean up your engine bay and engine, cleanliness really is next to godliness. Go to Cruiser's Renix Tips to learn about how to go through your electrical system.

I got 31-10.50s. Cooper AT3s locally, mounted and balanced for $650. I would not bother with online tire sales.

interesting.......made in Israel. http://www.motoradusa.com/about-us/

If not for the bumper stops........ Mounting similar to the XJ, just in reverse, rear to front rather that front to rear would be the logical approach. I have no spare tire or winch. I'll look around and measure others to see what will fit. XJ bars are wimpy, can't see how they have much effect.

Not on my truck.

Where in Sweden are you from? I've been to Malmo. Yeah, the cap is not attractive but as one who works out of his truck, I can appreciate it.

You may or may not find this interesting- https://coolviewthermostat.com/ A couple of weeks ago I went to the dealer to get a new stat, dealer stated that none were in stock nor in the system, but that he could order it but could not promise when it would be in. I complained to him about the BS Stant stats that are unreliable. He told me to get one from NAPA, that the NAPA Stants are different than the box store stats. I got the NAPA 180 and I've had no trouble since. He also told me that Mopar stats are made by Robert Shaw.........take that for what it's worth as I can find no confirmation of it.

http://knoxville.craigslist.org/pts/4300803835.html

http://orlando.craigslist.org/ptd/4296391924.html

http://comancheclub.com/topic/41755-helper-spring-suggestions/ As for a sway bar.........don't know yet, I'm gonna look around myself.

If your springs truly are weak, replace them. In my case, my truck sits perfectly level, springs are strong, bushings are good. I too have some slop in the steering/cornering, the feeling of under steer/over steer when taking a sharp corner. I attribute this to the track bar in the front, I know for a fact its the track bar, I can see the slop when I have someone else rock the steering wheel. Shocks are also to be considered, I'm running Gabriels in the rear and I'll move to all Bilstiens in the near future. Tires are also to be considered. I'm running the Cooper AT3s, good tires with little sidewall flex........IOWs I sense no roll in them in a corner. I'm looking to the double shear track bar, I can find only one that does not require a lift, most are for 3"+++. I'm also considering a sway bar for the rear, the XJs run them, along with just about every other late model truck. Also consider going the the thicker/heavier V8 ZJ front sway bar.

Having not done it myself.......but I have read here that guys swap from XJs to Grands to Dakotas to aftermarkets. I think you have a wide birth of choices.

http://www.generalspringkc.com/Leaf_Springs_Jeep_Comanche_s/1954.htm I'd spend the $280 and be done with it.

Also.... I have a trans out of a 94 and I know the CPS is different........Renix to Chrysler..........I suspect the fly wheel is different too.

If he's going to go through all that.......he might as well do a 4.0 swap, he'd be better off.

I disagree. The gain will be worthwhile. The throttle body injected version produced 117 horsepower at 5,000 RPM and 135 foot-pounds of torque at 3,500 RPM when it was introduced in the 1986 model year. This was raised to 121 horsepower at 5,250 RPM and 141 foot-pounds of torque at 3,250 RPM for model years 1987 through 1990. The final, multi-port injected version produced 130 horsepower at 5,250 RPM and 150 foot-pounds of torque at 3,250 RPM. If you get the system from a '97 - '00 Cherokee, you'll also get OBD-II, which will allow using a hand-held scanner to read trouble codes. I was going to post this--- and decided not to........ The point is, I have a real world comparison. If he wants a project, so be it, it's his. For what ever he will gain, horsepower or familiarity, consider the effort, time, money............and what is the payoff?

That's a whole lot of effort to avoid a new familiarity. Clean it up, tune it up, and come to understand it. Mine runs extremely well, I'll put it up to any MPI 2.5 anytime. Efficiency? 22-25 But.........nothing more than my opinion............do as you will.

Consider dollars and effort........any gain will be negligible. Tune what you have, you'll be surprised.

Like a dog with worms......huh?

88 here. Us 2.5 guys gotta stick together. :peek:

$500 for the LEDs? Ain't for this poor boy.

Get a second opinion. If it has not thinned or increased or changed color.......or.........? I would not worry about it.

25 year old plastic. What would you expect?

My 31s are perfect at stock height.

That's a TBI Renix...........not a multiport Chrysler. Looks like you got some cleaning to do.