Jeep Driver

I'll also mention that grease will solidify over time. Did you flush out all your rod ends? I'd take a look at your ball joints, the upper can be flushed but the lower cannot. Also, flush your front drive shaft. I would imagine all your seals.....main seals.....axle seals.....TC seals.....etc.......are dried and cracked and do or will leak. What about Ujoints? Brake lines??????? You will spend some time and money.....just a fact.

Did you replace the battery cables? Cable from alt to breaker?

No, It's EVERYTHING. Your bushings are bad, I guarantee you that. Track bar too........and I'd look at your rod ends......... The worst thing that anyone can do it let a vehicle sit........and after 12 years worth.........rubber goes to rot. And I'd bet the bushings in the springs are bad too. I'm telling you the truck is wondering and what you consider touchy is you constantly working the keep the truck straight down the road. And for the dampener? yeah, the seals have dried up and it will/does stick.

I wonder if he's confusing sensitive with sloppy. If your control arm bushings.....or any other part of the suspension......is worn, your truck will wonder and keeping it straight is a full time job.

Someone has a very sweet truck.

These would be cool too. https://digi-tails.com/1966-67-chevy-nova-led-tail-light-panels

With filler panel and body work........properly done........ http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/parts/catalog/chevrolet~c10-pickup~64.html?3593=246264

The pic above this post....#6.....is a Yj shifter Does it place it in the same position as the MJ at the tunnel?

Someone in the 'build' forum did just that. He used a Honda shaft as the thread one on the shaft was the same as the ball he used, looked good.

Go to Oreilly or NAPA and ask to go to the back and look through all the preformed hoses, you'll find one.

??? What's a triple braced link? The parts in your photos look like the OEM parts, and they look like every 4.0L timing chain set I've ever seen.

Vacuum leak or intake manifold gasket.

With the engine OFF! all anyone has to do is turn the clutch by hand, the face of the clutch will turn or it will not. If it turns, it's not the compressor, if it does not, the compressor is locked up. It's that simple.

The other two guys are correct. I cannot believe a 'shop' could not figure that out in 5 seconds....????????

That ring is the back of the bearing stop. At some point the drive shaft as been forced forward into the TC. You'll need a new tail shaft cone. Fix it NOW.

Fuel pump relay.

The ones from Europe are amber......>>IIRC

Image Not Found I use a drill to destroy the rubber and then a punch to move the steel collar out. Image Not Found This is not the UCA bushing but I did the same there too.

Bad advise? Think not. He's running a 12" tire, he did not say what wheel or wheel width they are mounted to. A 12" tire should be mounted to a 10" wheel, otherwise at full pressure you pull up the tread as the sidewall expands out. To correct this, you guys reduce tire pressure. This causes lateral movement of the wheel inside the tire, IOWs the wheel is allowed to travel left to right inside the tire. Also causes some real slop and sway in turns. What width wheel are you using?

It's fairly low pressure. Cut the line and splice with fuel hose and two clamps.

http://www.nonlintec.com/sprite/oils_and_zddp.pdf I just replaced my VC last week. There are over 60K miles on this engine, I put 55K on it, using Havoline 40W and Lucas. It is spotless inside. I also replaced the oil pan gasket two weeks ago, just as clean there also. I run a little more than 60psi at 2000rpm and 40psi at idle, no problem with wear. You guys really need to get over yourselves with all the oil science bull$#!& and just run a quality oil and filter. I use Pure1 filters. Image Not Found

Also, How many of you guys have reused axle Ubolts? I want the Ford Explorer style with the flat strap at the arch of the bolt. Ford want $30 each......they can bite me. Plentiful at the PnP. Or have you guys seen these aftermarket? And I definitely want the 9/16 bolt.

I have a 93 8.25 from an XJ. I'm converting it to discs from a Liberty. I snagged the studs from the Liberty, only to learn tonight that the Liberty studs are too big at the neck. At this point.......?? Drill out the hubs to accommodate the Liberty studs? Or From what axle can I get the longer studs to fit the XJ axle? Will a similar year D30 have the longer stud with the correct diameter? Thanks