Jeep Driver

OP, I referred your thread to a guy who needs your PS brackets and associated parts. If you are willing to part it out. There are people who need these parts, don't chuck them.

Find someone who needs the 2.5 parts, brackets, pulleys, etc........they have become impossible to source these days. Sounds like you got it, straight forward.....but, of course, nothing is ever straight forward. Fuel system too, rad support, rad.

I'm confused, pic prior, no broken bolt, now, broken bolt......????

To answer your question, the common 4WD hubs appeared first on the mid-92 MJ models, not the 91 models. So your easiest option is to grab a used 2WD or 4WD XJ front axle (whichever you prefer) from a 93 and up instead of trying to convert your existing 2WD front axle. I have to do the same thing one of these days on my 91 2WD............ He's in Germany, IIRC, he stated there are no 2W available to source parts from, hence, the tone of my response.

That block is not what I call clean. Permatex #2, not silicone.

I am using the 97 ZJ MC since it does not have a sensor in the reservoir and I'm anal bout such things. I'm using a 04 WJ booster with spacer and have no clearance problems.........again, I'm anal bout that $#!&. After I get the Wilwoods settled in........I'm swapping the WJ booster again, this time with an adjustable stem so I can set my brake pedal where I want it and I'm also going to the Ford brake light switch and ditching the PIA POS stock config.

BTW, I'll state as my opinion............ 2W or RWD is not a positive attribute. Rare? I don't know what 'rare' is worth there, here? not much. If it were me, I'd find a good XJ axle and bolt it in.

As far as I know........ You should be able to bolt on any year knuckle to that axle........however......... You MUST MUST MUST use the axle stub (you can cut the ears off) as a bolt to bolt the unit bearing together. Otherwise the unit bearing will come apart and you will loose a wheel........both wheels. Since yours has a spindle, not a unit bearing, your knuckle and associated parts can be discarded. BTW, you'll need brakes....rotor and caliper to go with the new knuckle.

Read up on some of the history of AMC. AMC's practices were the most innovative since Ford's production line. AMC invented 'outsourcing'. Now, every automaker outsources. TImer? and POS? yes. Driven by EPA, not AMC. Much of what took place in the 70s and 80s as it relates to 'safety' and emissions was driven by NHTSA and EPA, both of which have killed more people than they saved.

TC gets ATF. I have about 40K on 40W and Lucas in both difs and 30W in the AX5. I'm the poster child for combating conventional wizdumb.

I downloaded to my computer then to my imgur. Don't know what problem you are having. I use Chrome but toggle to IE where imgur is..............maybe try IE.

Click on pic from your library, pic opens, click on Linked BBCode, copy button. Paste here.

I did the braided lines also to all of mine. What are you gonna do with the fronts? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-12576d/overview/make/jeep/model/cherokee There is nothing available anywhere for the WJ knuckle, I decided to go with the early knuckle and standard Jeep steering. I've had a couple of conversations with Wilwood, really wanted the 14" rotors, they referred me to TCE. TCE can make a kit for me for $2K. For now, I'm going with the standard package, once I have the parts and have it set up, I'll look to see what I can do with the mount and rotor combination. There is a 14" available, but no hat/rotor combo with the correct offset. Pretty much have to use their SS lines........so............$ 1075 to my door, I'll live with that for now. I've decided on the Synergy steering package that I will order this week.........then another month for the Wilwood package. $600 here, $1000 there..........adds up..........since I'm poor............time.

All I know is I'm glad I had no idea what I was doing when I did mine. Braided SS is a great improvement also. Can't wait to get my fronts done now.

They are not related. For that matter, the clock could have quite 10 years ago 5 minutes before it sent a signal to the service light.........IOWs it could be telling you now what it should have told you 10 years ago. How would anyone know? you wouldn't. Ignore it.

Do what you need to do for your engine. The timer on an '88 is just to the right of the steering column at the front of the dash. Mine was a small white/transparent box.

and...? change O2 sensor? It's a 30 year old plastic clock, I find it completely irrelevant.

Reach under the dash and unplug the timer.

imgur

Yeah, I wasn't trying to sell you on Fuel, it's just an easy and quick way to get a contrast of different wheels..........something to 'fuel' the imagination. Personally, I find blacked out anything to be boring.

With holes that size I would just go ahead and for fiberglass it four layers of glass it will be stronger than it was new

Bwd is the worst of them all there are Mopar sensors out there you just got to look for them

I suspect something came apart possibly the friction disc or a finger came out of the pressure plate something came apart and is flinging around on the flywheel the grind portion of the sensor is too small for it to be the flywheel itself

http://www.fueloffroad.com/iconfigurator.cfm#!lang=0&year=1988&make=Jeep&model=Cherokee&submodel=5074&go=1&body=0&tab=wheels&page=1&color=31701&wheel=4047&wheelimage=30871 If that link does not take you directly..........go to Fuel.com, truck builder, 88, XJ.........click on different wheels.............kinda cool.