relyt120

I got calipers from advance auto, let me see if I can find the PN

:hmm: Taking the dash out is really no big deal, definitely a lot less work to go ahead and take the whole dash out than to try to work around it, if it is possible or not.

Decided to take my dog to the lake for a walk today and since its Sunday I drove this truck. When I was backing out to leave a cop pulls up behind me and gets out... :doh: I knew immediately what the issue was. In Tennessee a vehicle can be permanently registered as an antique if it is at least 25 years old, so that is how this truck is registered. Its a one time fee and doesn't need to ever be inspected again, but you can only drive it for GP on the weekend. Today is a Sunday so I'm in the clear for that rule. When you register as antique you have 2 options: :smart: They issue you a generic Antique vehicle plate You can register with a vintage (one year older than model year) Tennessee plate The officer was not aware of option two, which of course is the route I had taken. So, as far as he knew i was driving around with 26 years expired plates. It was pretty funny actually because he was like "You know you got '88 plates on there right" I explained to him they had given me the option at the county clerk when I registered it as antique but he was less than convinced and asked to see my registration. I got it out of the glove box and he looked it over still thinking something was wrong, so I asked him if it was the right plate number and he went and checked it. Sure enough it was right, he was still pretty confused saying hes never seen anything like that before and he kept looking at my registration. Here is the best part...He turns to the next page from the papers I gave him and there is the outline of the law that I had printed when I was looking to get the truck registered as antique. :D I printed it out so I could remember the restrictions on driving it and in case I ever got pulled over by someone who was unaware of the law. Looks like it came in handy, though the officer said he wasn't going to give me a ticket anyway since I was not actually on a roadway. All in all it was pretty fun, and he could have given me tickets for two other things he did not even mention: my reverse lights don't work and the windshield is broken. :thumbsup:

really like a white MJ

make sure you got a good ground to the dash, that is where I would start at least.

Thanks for the offer. I actually have 2 or three of them somewhere but i just can't figure out where i put them... :hmm: Too many parts in my garage!

I guess I forgot to mention that. After I got the tires balance at a cheap little shop the DW got worse and occurred much more often. Could not even get to work and back without having to pull over multiple times, and i don't even take the highway. I ordered a bunch of parts: TREs,track bar, steering dampener, center link. The whole shabang. Got my tire shop to quote me on the cost to install the parts...$600! That was a no go. I bought the whole truck for only $1175, no way I am going to pay 600 to get some parts put on. So me and my step-dad ripped it apart and put the new parts on. Alignment is only slightly off and I haven't had DW one time since. I think the main issue was one of the TREs was completely shot. I am going to get the wheels re-balanced at my tire shop rather than the little foreign shop I went for convenience last time, because I can still feel a little bit of a shimmy at high speeds. It is so much better than it was though so I am very happy with the money spent on the parts. Buying my step dad a big bottle of Whiskey is way cheaper than giving $600 to the tire shop! and i got to have some too :brows: I think there is one more TRE i need to order, alignment, rotate tires, balance tires and I should be good to go for another 100k. Also i bought lower control arm bushings but have not put them on yet.

If its a 90 auto then it has the AW4 rather than the A904 if you look at the fuel door you can tell if you have a short wheel base or a long wheel base. If the fuel door is nearly touching the rear flare then its a LWB if you have several inches between the fuel door and the rear flare then it is a SWB. You can tell if it is 2wd or 4wd a few ways: the presence of a transfer case, the presence of a 4wd snifter, the presence of a front differential rather than beam axle. If it is a 4wd then you will have a dana 30 front differential, if it is 2wd then you will have a dummy beam axle instead.

:needpics: Nice to see another TN guy on here, Welcome!

Thanks a lot! I am a big fan of the column shifter. In other news I decided to do something about the unevenness of my front bumper. Due to the wreck I had before the paint job the bumper brackets had to be massaged to accept the bumper again. I was too timid with the new paint being on to use my jack to align the bumper when I put it back on. At this point there are enough little chips from little road rocks that I went ahead and loosened the passenger side bumper bolts and jacked it up until it was level, tightened it back. Now it looks much better! :thumbsup: If only I could find that damned ash tray :dunno:

all first gen xj seats will bolt onto MJ brackets but only the 2 door ones will be able to fold forward

Next thing to do is clean up the wiring under the hood. I'm going to collect all the things I've added and put them in one area. Namely the relay bank for locks/windows and the remote start module.

Here is how she sits The fuel injectors and cleaned up fuel rail: The Subwoofer and amp: The Subwoofer is self enclosed and really easy to take out if needed. The amp sits under the seat and below the sub.

Yesterday I decided to go ahead and re-route those wires I mentioned before. I have taken a dash out before in my other truck so I knew it was not too bad to do. I didn't even have to take the dash all the way out. I just removed the lower dash panel, dropped the steering column,unbolted the 8mm bolts from the top and loosened the 15mm bolts from each side under the kickpanels. This let me get at the wiring behind the dash to rerun the rca cables to the amp and the power and ground I added when I put the new radio in. I also went ahead and ran the remote-on wire from the radio to the amp so it will go on and off with the radio, I had a simple switch before and it killed my battery a few times. While I had the dash loose I replaced the a pillar trim on the drivers side since it was loose from the screw being over tightened the last time. Finally was able to reassemble the whole dash for the first time in months. No wires showing :banana:

That spring is definitely part of the parking brake assembly

The cable is probably broken. You are might be out of luck too because they are impossible to find new. The plastic retaining clip that keeps it seated in the cluster is also prone to braking so keep that in mind while searching for a replacement.

Make sure that hose is not collapsing, had a similar issue before. If need be replace it with a sturdy new hose, I used fuel hose.

Oh yeah i forgot! I also made myself a clone of the supplental head light harness I ordered from Amazon. I was not a fan of the odd relays they used and some exposed wire at the connectors and I needed a second one anyway for my other truck. So I went ahead and made a clone with 14ga wire and standard 40amp 5 pin relays. Here is what I used:

Have been having a lot of problems with death wobble lately. I have never done anything with the steering on this truck so I ordered a bunch of new parts to get it taken care of. I tried to get the tires balanced first but it actually made it worse/more consistent. Also I am going to pull the dash and neatly re-run a bunch of my wiring. I added an amp and sub after Christmas and ran it very amateurishly just to get it working in the cold. That plus all the wiring I have running to both doors for the locks, windows, and mirrors along with miscellaneous other wires for my remote starter/keyless entry system mean that my wiring is a nightmare up under/around the dash so it will be well worth it. While I'm at it i need to replace the A pillar trim on the driver side, at some point the screw hole for the mount broke off so it flaps around and drives me crazy. I am going to update this with some overall pictures of the truck as soon as i get a change to snap some. Also I had to replace the starter a week or two ago, it would barely turnover with two batteries and a jump box hooked to it; man that new starter cranks so much faster than the old one! Oh yeah! I also upgraded to the Volvo 155 746 Injectors and cleaned up my fuel rail. yeah man i need to upload some more pictures!

I have done a few minor things with this truck lately. Mainly because my DD has been getting major death wobble lately. This truck has been sitting on a flat tire on the front passenger side wheel for the better part of the winter. I got 2 of those eliminator rims to a presentable, but not perfect, condition and had a couple of 225 75 15's put on for cheap. It already had a mismatched wheel on the rear driver side so I swapped the Wheel from the rear driver up to the front and put the two Eliminator rims on back. Like i said the rims are not perfect but from 10 feet with some nice sun on them they look great! I've got to work on the other two a lot more to get them in good enough shape to put on. I've also had this little solar trickle charger from harbor freight hooked to the batter for a while and it does a great job of keeping the battery juiced up since I don't drive it much. Also I replaced the battery cables and installed a hold down for the battery, he starts right up every time. I'll put some pics up later today. Next things to do: Get floor patched on driver side Cover floor with rust preventer Insulate floor with bubble foam Either order carpet or reinstall the vinyl mat Once all that is done I'm going to install the sweet Maroon interior i picked up a while back When I have the dash out I'm definitely going to swap the fuse box and harness so i can get my cluster working again and remove the jumpers currently being used to rig up the brake light circuit. Once ALL of that is done I got my paint guy to quote me on painting the cab red ($300) I'm going to replace the doors and hood with red JY ones once I find a good set...hopefully with chrome handles and mirrors. Then I want to put the Laredo style gray lower body line paint/trim and paint the flares the same color. Haven't decided what to do with the rear bumper yet, probably a chrome aftermarket one if i can get a deal. All in due time :crossfingers:

someone do this with a 4.0 :drool:

Make sure you didn't break or otherwise disconnect the numerous vacuum lines that must be removed to take out the Fuel rail. I did the same thing when I changed mine, forgot to reconnect the map sensor's vac line to the TB. I know you said it went back to normal when you swapped them back but it is possible when you swapped the volvo injectors in you forgot to connect a line and then when you swapped them back to the old ones you did not forget to connect that line. my $.02 anyway. GL :thumbsup:

FYI I can confirm that the volvo injectors use the same Orings as the OEM injectors. These orings can be found at Advanced auto parts with part number 274573 for under $5. It comes with all 12 orings, pick up an extra set,or p/n 274571, if you want to change the oring for where the FPR attaches to the fuel tail, it is the same oring.

Nope on both accounts. Too much for the first and the second has the v6. Would not touch with ten foot pole.

I like that bench seat a lot. Welcome :waving: