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DirtyComanche

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Everything posted by DirtyComanche

  1. DirtyComanche
    That. Although currently it looks like it's dead weight.
  2. DirtyComanche
    Glad you found your way here
  3. DirtyComanche
    That will make a huge difference.
  4. DirtyComanche
    Make sure the rear line is not plugged or broken. That much oil is not a good sign.
  5. DirtyComanche
    Thanks! There's a Beach box in there that I got from my uncle, it's old and SOLID. I also have been half assed looking for somebody to make me a big maple leaf decal or stencil for the bay door, since I think the place could use a little snazzing up and that would be tasteful.
  6. DirtyComanche
    I really don't understand the obsession with remaining spring under when lifting.
  7. DirtyComanche
    I didn't take enough pictures for this to really work out for a proper forum post, so you're just getting a video. I will try not to do this again.
  8. DirtyComanche
  9. DirtyComanche
    Grind the head off, punch it through, make or buy a tab nut or bolt and fish it in there.
  10. DirtyComanche
    I'm assuming he means smoothies or the old dish steel wheels from the 50s-70s. Yes, there's some out there that fit, but unfortunately most are in 5x4.75 or 5x5 patterns as the 5x4.5 pattern wasn't super common prior to the 80s.
  11. DirtyComanche
    Mine are basically that size. 3.5" RE lift coils. They're 17" metric tires though with the JK wheels.
  12. DirtyComanche
    I have no idea. I honestly believe I've never seen a post-Renix 2.5L in person.
  13. DirtyComanche
    He has a 2.5L. The Renix 4.0L has it in the same place as the HO.
  14. DirtyComanche
    Support the engine with a floor jack and pull the mount out piece by piece. The pipe nipple extractors are low profile and you should just be able to pound one in and put a wrench on it. Alternatively Snap-On sells some small extractors for not too much, Google search REX114A for an example.
  15. DirtyComanche
    My 86 is in the same boat, it basically needs one of everything to be usable. There is a fair amount of info out there on EV conversions and some good forums, and one of the better known retailers and manufacturers of conversion parts is in the same province as me. It would be a huge task to do a clean and useful conversion, and I believe I would be into it for at least $15k, but need to do more research. That said, I find I'm far more able to get my own projects completed if other people are enthused about them, it makes for a positive feedback loop when you post updates, and I'm not sure this is going to go that way.
  16. DirtyComanche
    Looks really nice. Did you have a club card to leave under the wiper?
  17. DirtyComanche
    There's much cheaper OEM components that can be used. And they're probably more reliable. I forget what the common power steering pump is to use, I think it's off an Audi or something. It doesn't have as much jam as an engine driven one but it will still probably be adequate for anything I'd do.
  18. DirtyComanche
    You can get standalone vacuum and hydraulic pumps that are run off pressure switches. The zuk I linked has a vacuum pump from a diesel VW. He has manual steering.
  19. DirtyComanche
    It looks thin enough you might be able to collapse an edge of it with a punch, then turn it out with a pair of pliers.
  20. DirtyComanche
    I guess. As long as they're good at explaining what they did and how... Because there is a lot of good info in that for everyone. The FSJ forums have a "Priss" section for that type of stuff, since they tend to be their own little cult.
  21. DirtyComanche
    I want it for the braking, having had and lived through several vehicle brake failures; you're left with pretty minimal options if the motor is freespooling and you have no brakes, at least with a normal combustion engine you can gear down or even throw the transmission in reverse. It's certainly cheaper to just run a DC setup and not worry about it, and the guys that are interested in going fast and only going fast certainly do that. You only really see something like a 10% increase in range with the regenerative braking, but that's still something, especially with my intended 'route' featuring a couple long hills that you have to go both down and up. I don't want to build a hybrid, I think it would be way too heavy to have any use, I'd be better off just throwing the little Kubota diesel in the thing and running dual transmissions.
  22. DirtyComanche
    Take the engine mount off for access? Pound in a pipe extractor and turn it with a wrench?
  23. DirtyComanche
    Might be a lot of power, but it seems like a rip off for a set of injectors, a thermostat, and a pulley...
  24. DirtyComanche
    Powerpoint, wow, there's a program I wish had never existed. Edit, how many slides is it? Worst case I can probably type it out at work one of these days...
  25. DirtyComanche
    Do you mean have the driveshaft pass through the motor? Since most of these motors have keyed or splined drives on each end. I don't know if you would get enough torque unless you went big. Everything I'm looking at is retaining the transmission and the transfer case for any sort of usage beyond just going fast. And I want A/C for regenerative braking, because then it actually holds you back or can even stop you.
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