DirtyComanche

It's a Swiss 721 font, almost for sure. They came out in 1982, so they would have been "New and edgy" for the time. I think it's Swiss 721 Black, or Swiss 721 Black BT. I could download Swiss 721 Black BT for free, so I'm going to try that. 721 Ex BT does not have the boldness that the emblems do, IMHO, although by playing with it you can get it close. The Black versions are more like that to start with.

No, not unless he's added enough bumpstop length that the compressed length still works. If you just go to a 4" longer shock, you will likely see a 19-20" compressed length which will become your bumpstop and will kill the shocks in short order. Those specs for the factory shocks are very ideal, many shocks have a much longer compressed length to travel ratio; although certain aftermarket shocks are certainly much better in this regard. You have to figure out how the suspension should travel, bumpstop accordingly, then measure for shocks. Failing bumpstopping, which many people often don't need to do since the wheelwells are fairly large in the rear of a MJ, you must measure for the shocks on the factory bumpstops. Otherwise you will kill the shocks or rip the mounts off.

$41.80 USD for a GM one. https://www.ebay.ca/itm/New-Spare-Tire-Winch-Carrier-Wheel-Hoist-For-Escalade-Silverado-1500-2500-Tahoe/153016578610?hash=item23a07fb232:g:nw4AAOSwL7pa86yD&vxp=mtr Sorry for the .ca link, but I'm sure it will redirect.

I believe there's a generic you can buy new for less/similar to that... Or it's for a Ford or GM or whatever (basically a generic at that point).

Why not? The drive doesn't see out that window, which was a point I skipped over prior. Putting the spare on a swingout across the back blocks visibility, laying it down in the back takes up precious cargo space, standing it up takes up space and blocks visibility, putting it on the roof increases drag and CoG while giving you a back injury every time you need to get it up there... I like functional form, as long as it isn't taken too far. I guess that might just be too far for some people.

That does actually look really close. I'll have to see if I can figure out how to import it into DaVinci Resolve.

I have limited options without figuring out how to import fonts. I went with TW Cen MT Condensed Extra Bold in the bold stylizing and then added a stroke to it and condensed it a bit. Guess what, it's wrong, the C looks quit different... But I'm going to run with it unless I find something better within the next couple weeks. I'm also spelling the word Cherokee rather than Comanche, and I don't actually have a good high-res of the emblem, all the Google searches produce the 97+ emblem. I'm also on really terrible satellite internet right now so it's hard to search images. Or search anything at all. I might try the Helvetica Bold option, since I should have that, and play with the stroke and spacing... It might be closer.

^^^ I thought about that for mine but the 37 won't fit there. Not with the shock towers and other body mods.

Woah, am I on Jeepforum circa 2008 Here?

I know it's been discussed, but search sucks... What font was determined to be closest to the emblems style?

I've lost one before. It's not cool. Do your retorques 50-100 miles after install, and retorque as part of your oil change/PMI/service... With adapters I retorque them every time a wheel comes off.

Not really a useful mod with an auto.

Ugh. That's a total can of worms to reply to. Basic idea regarding trans/tcases: -90 and earlier AW4s were 21 spline, and thus the tcase that goes with them is 21 spline -91+ AW4s were 23 spline, thus the tcase is 23 spline. Later AW4s are wired slightly different, and the TV cable is different; you pretty much could have a whole thread on the differences but I assume you're staying manual so we can skip it. -Peugeot 5spds were 21 spline, ditto on the tcase (don't swap a Peugeot in, but the tcase that goes with one being 21 spline is important) -AX-15s are 23 spline, ditto with their tcase... So if you get an AX-15 you can't use a tcase from an early AW4 or a Peugeot (or a 4 cylinder) -NV3550 5spds are 23 spline -4 cylinder/diesel/V6 applications (including the AX-5) should always be 21 spline but I'm sure AMC stuffed something weird in at some point just to mess with people So for you, assuming you want to stay with a 4 cylinder and AX-5, you could get a trans from any 4wd AX-5 setup (again I believe they went external slave after 94, which is more desirable), and any tcase from the 21 spline options about. Note, stick with the NP231 or NP242 tcase, as the earlier stuff isn't so good (don't get anything pre-87). If you get the transmission out of a YJ/TJ Wrangler it will have the tcase mount pattern drilled at a different clocking, you can either drill it to the XJ/MJ clocking or run it and maybe mod the floor with a hammer (normally it's fine, some mounts may cause issues). You're going to likely have to get an entire rear driveshaft built. You want the slip yoke that came with whatever tcase you buy, unless you're planning to do a SYE. There is likely a lot of interchange on the slip yokes but I'm not an expert and generally just run a SYE anyways... Front driveshafts vary according to what they came from. Do not use any of the pre-87 ones, again, they're weak and suck. You can potentially interchange them, the tcase they came from does not matter (NP231 or NP242), and some of them are fairly close depending on the tranny used and may work fine if you're installing a lift. In general you should look for one out of a donor with the same engine/transmission as you though. The longest ones appear to be AW4 versions, and they can often be cut down and balanced for minimal cost if the correct one can not be located. Do not use a YJ front driveshaft, they're junk. I don't know what else to say, the whole topic is huge and very hard to address as there is many little idiosyncrasies that are hard to cover off the top of the head. Everything I wrote is from memory and should not be taken for gospel.

It's a good idea other than it kills visibility out the back... Backup camera might be a worthwhile mod.

Most people have no idea because it doesn't matter to them, and why should it? Get the quick lube to check the gear oil and forget about it. And rarely do they get swapped out unless there is other mods. You MAY see the odd XJ in a boneyard with an 8.8 in it since it is such a popular mod, but that's about the extent of what I've seen for non-factory stuff. Most people with modded vehicles don't send them to the boneyard.

I'd assume the existing ones are wrong and measure the compressed distance between the upper and lower mounts. That's with the current shocks off, axle squished to the bumpstop... which you probably can't replicate so it's easier to measure from the the bumpstop to whatever it contacts (axle tube) and subtract 1", then subtract that from the current shock mount to mount distance. From there look for the longest travel shock you can find that meets the minimum distance. Monroe has a decent catalog, along with Bilstein, and you can browse through random stuff on Rockauto that should be similar and see if specs are listed.

It's the factory fluid in many P/S systems that run basically identical pumps and steering boxes. I consider it to be basically backwards compatible, I doubt there would be any noticeable difference between either.

Measure and order based on that.

Personally I wouldn't use any of it. As Pete said, the driveshaft and tcase are not desirable. The front axle also is of the early design and uses the smaller ujoints and different brakes and unit bearings. I'd find a later Jeep to pull everything from, 95ish and up will get you an external slave AX-15.

Yes, it will. As a cleaner option the standard old GM is a very similar resistance range (0-99 ohms vs 0-88 ohms) and you can get an aftermarket one of those for very little money... It just might not peg right full with the tank full, but it will be very close as most gauges are calibrated to show past the full line when absolutely full.

Lower radiator hose isn't collapsing?

What do the plugs look like? Cat or exhaust plugged? I know you said it's new, buuuuuut...

Make one out of hardware store junk.

Rockauto, eBay, Amazon for most stock replacement type items. Aftermarket is a lot longer list.

For the record you can delete it. But it's part of the emissions system so it may be illegal to do so, and you need to go to a vented cap or run the vent from the tank elsewhere. On my XJ it is run into a small filter along with a bunch of the other vents. I retained the restrictor/poppet valve, and it will probably smell like fuel if you don't.