DirtyComanche

I can not in any way endorse putting money into a D35. If you're going to do that you might as well also get a chryo treated and micropolished gearset to ensure that you've wasted the maximum money possible when it fails. The 8.8 width issue is a real depending on what wheels and tires you run. There used to be a C-clip eliminator kit for them, and it made them wider. I don't know what happened to that, maybe somebody is making them again.

There is but, no, it's not how to do it; as other than MJ axles, everything that has the same perch width is the wrong overall width/bolt pattern/etc. Get a suitable rear axle (XJ 8.25, XJ D44, Explorer 8.8, Libby 8.25, etc, whatever the cool kids swap in now because I don't know) and get somebody to weld new perches on. It's a job that a welding/fab shop would probably charge you an hour of labour to do, which could be anywhere from $50-200 depending on locality, or you could look around for somebody that does that sort of work or the side, or ask around at a 4x4/Jeep club and see if somebody will help. This is by far the right solution. The Explorer axle is easily available in 4.10 and has disk brakes.

It works but it's not really an upgrade with the ports so badly mismatched. If I was you I'd wait until you have the HO head and swap it all over at the same time. Too bad the pictures in my thread are broken. It showed how bad it is.

I've still got my magnet on the fridge: It would suck to stop offering them and the decals, but I don't know what to say. Forums as communities have unfortunately been displaced by the (inferior) Facebook, so it's hard to garner the same level of interest. I don't go to shows but I do mention this place whenever I run into a Comanche owner, either they already know about it or shrug and say they're in whatever Facebook group. Maybe it's time to switch the designs of the decals up some?

Absolutely. I bought a whole truck for $1200, sold the doors for $400, hood for $200, tires for $300, seats for $200, grill and headlights for $150, taillights for $50, tailgate for $150, tcase for $250, kept the engine/trans/wiring/ECU and scrapped the rest. Granted I have a trailer and had some time/space to blow the truck apart to do that, but it at least netted me a complete engine/trans for negative cost. I could have made a lot more on the part out if I was willing to wait longer too.

What brand of bulbs were they? I bought some off ScAmazon and they weren't even as bright as the standard incandescent bulbs despite being advertised as "super bright".

Here's what I did. Not going to say it's the best/cheapest way, but it did mostly what I wanted. If you were retentive you could caulk the gaps and it would look even better. Basically it's an outdoor rated electrical box installed in the wall, reason for using them is they're sturdy, have an integrated cover, and since they're for conduit they have NPT threads in them. That said, it's a bit of a trick to do what I did, and I don't totally remember how I did it, I think I internally threaded a long bushing from both ends, then screwed it into the box from the inside (the wrong way), and put a PEX/NPT elbow on the back. Reel one: The one for the reel doesn't have a cover and was a mistake to use the box like that, I should have just used a standard PEX "drop elbow" like this: Anyway, there's lots of PEX fittings out there so just be creative. Maybe the kits they sell for air fittings are better now, but when I looked at them 8~ years ago they weren't any better than what you could do with PEX and were a lot more money.

You can just buy a 1/2" PEX to 1/4" NPT and do it that way, or use a standard 1/2" PEX to faucet bib stub-out and sweat/thread a fitting on, or whatever, then just screw your regular air coupler on (they're all either 1/4" or 3/8" N or F MPT). I have a picture of how I did it somewhere because I wanted a true clean install, but I'll have to take one tonight if you want to see, because I'm unlikely to find it in the eleventybillion photos on my phone.

Ground fall off the side of the block? Or any other obvious cable damage? Terminal ends are in good shape and tight on the battery?

I'd hope so too. The stockers are very dim by modern standards.

I plumbed my shop for air using PEX. I would do it again. IMHO all the "kits" are gimmicky proprietary stuff, where as you can buy good quality PEX and fittings from anywhere and have it all work together and it's incredibly economical. I put a manifold in the attic and ran separate drops from it in each of the walls, plus one high up to run a reel that's mounted on the ceiling by the big door. If I'm filling tires I use the reel, otherwise I use shorter lightweight hoses from each of the drops. But if you want to buy a kit, I'd say go ahead, people have good results with them. Ditto on the 240V welding outlet. I put three of them in my shop because it gives me more flexibility, and I can plug other high power equipment into them if needed, but that's overkill for most people. If you don't feel you need one, but you're planning to stay here for a long time, I'd at least future proof by running conduit for one or whatever else to make it easy to do later. I put 120V outlets about every 8', but both at baseboard height (12" or so) and work bench height (52" sort of thing). I don't regret that. I do regret not putting a couple in the ceiling that were switched. This would have made it easier to change some of the lighting later, or to plug in an extension cord reel.

I'd wait to see these on a truck before I passed judgement.

I hate shelves, and would recommend cabinets instead. I put cabinets along the top of my shop on both sides (sans doors, so they're technically still shelves so I hate them, but that's a project I keep meaning to get to), you need a ladder to access them so they're only good for things you rarely use. However, when you start looking around you realize there is a bunch of stuff that you rarely use. I then bought some filing cabinets, bolted them together, and then put casters on them and built simple cabinets on the top of them, all for storing stuff I normally use. You've got super limited space so you might not be able to fit anything that big. The other thing is almost everything in my shop (everything but the lathe and mill actually) is on wheels/casters, because that way you can move things around as needed, or just straight up roll something outside if you need more space for a short period of time. If plywood is too expensive, look at OSB. At least for the lower 4' OSB is a lot nicer than drywall, because it will get beat up. I didn't do the entire interior of my shop in OSB, just parts that I thought would take the most damage, and the rest is drywall. It's okay, but I'd probably just do OSB for everything next time. Paint at least the top half of it and the ceiling white, it will help a ton with lighting by just doing that. My next biggest tip is to build a "garden shed" and fill that thing with everything that shouldn't be in your garage/shop. This was so successful for me that I had to build a second one. Then I put lean-to additions on both of them. I then built a small cabinet style shed down the whole outside of the shop and filled that too. Anyway... Also, I put my compressor in an "outhouse" type structure behind the shop, then plumbed for air. Lots of work but saves a lot of floor space. Initially I had a small one and I was going to put it in the attic, and even build a place for it, but I scored a big vertical unit for cheap so went the outhouse route. Again, it's all just about saving the space. Also cuts down on noise. Your little compressor could probably go in a cabinet built high up on the wall, or in the attic, if possible. Oh, buy one of those portable tent buildings and get your wife to park in there. Bam, freed up a whole bay. (I'm joking on this one, as I assume that's not going to happen )

Nice

Pics of the Javelin?

I rented a garage/shop for a while. It actually was part of the reason I finally bit the bullet and bought a house and built a shop. It seemed like everything was going to be okay because I was paying a fair amount for it, the homeowner wasn't around much and I would shovel the driveway/walkways for them, and literally all I did was work in there/leave a truck there. Then they got weird about things like having the heat on (well, eh... You need that here), and whatnot and then I just realized that they didn't get the point of why I was renting it even though I had been clear when I made the arrangement. Renting a commercial space would have been better, but it's too much money to justify from what I've seen. You can mortgage a lot of house with a big shop for what you'll pay to rent a commercial space big enough to be worth it. Ultimately I just put my stuff into storage and bought a house, then built a shop... Which took forever, so in retrospect I think just buying a place that already has a big shop would be the way I would go. Houses like that are common enough here.

Green can be from copper corrosion. My GMC was like that and did some digging, it turned out to be somewhat normal for old fluid in them. I left it alone until I replaced all the calipers. Any hydraulic system will tend to build up some gunk over time. Things wear, corrode, deteriorate, etc and that winds up in the fluid, along with anything introduced when people open the reservoir to check the level or add.

I skimmed the article, and I think they missed one point on the detergents that is a huge factor. Detergents lower the shear strength of the oil (the amount of pressure it can take before being displaced in a bearing). Diesel oils have much lower shear strengths because of this, which is part of why they add so much zinc back into them, but it's also why diesel engines are designed much differently in regards to oiling and bearing sizes. Really good oils won't shear, so there is no wear as the bearing surfaces will never contact, so you don't need much/any zinc. This includes wear at startup before the pump is supplying lubrication. The entire "I put the diesel oil in my gas because it's gooder" trend was started on bad science, they just looked at the zinc numbers and assumed that was all that mattered. At best you're putting an oil in that performs about as well as a cheap gasoline oil, but at a much higher price, at worst you're actually damaging things. Good synthetic GASOLINE oils are the way to go in gas engines. Beyond that it's keep the oil clean (not just free of soot, but of water or gasoline) and keep it cool. Add Camguard or similar if you're that worried about the zinc.

They're the chicken of the trees. Eat them before they eat your stuff.

I wound up putting that Cardone one in. It actually does run better with it versus the 32~ year old one I got out of the junkyard. Idle is smoother, and doesn't idle as low, and just smoother on and off the throttle in general. I'm not going to bother to try the one that was underwater again. But I suspect it is fine too. It's a real PITA to swap them because I have a bunch of extra wiring that's in the way, otherwise I would try it.

I've never seen aluminum wire used in automotive. I wouldn't use it either. It "works" in certain residential/commercial/industrial applications because the corrosion risk is low and all connections are designed to use it, so they're made out of plated metals that will not induce corrosion, plus they use a specific conductive grease with it. Even despite that you should check the torque on aluminum connections regularly... They tend to come loose due to the thermal expansion coefficient.

Pretty certain that was a slider window and they broke it out, or maybe cut/broke it and took whatever panes they needed.

That's why I stopped looking. I didn't want to get any really stupid ideas.

I don't know if there was any Jeep trucks in this... But they're auctioning 1000 trucks, many of them vintage or rare, so I'm guessing there will be at least a few. If I was local (or even remotely close) I'd look through the whole thing. https://www.farmauction.net/auction/nebraska-truck-hoard/

Lots of the Renix stuff is GM, some of it has been slightly modified (pins swapped, slightly different size, different threads, etc).