DirtyComanche

If nobody here can help you, post on www.jeepforum.com in the comanche section. 'Ed in North Ga' will respond, and he knows EVERYTHING about renix 4.0s, it seems. Otherwise, I can't do anything for you.

That came out clean. Always good to see somebody building their own stuff.

Yeah, pretty sure that's BrettM. Somebody should b*@$£ at him so he posts on this board.

Welcome I wish my engine ran smooth...

Nah, Cnd is .89 to 1.00 US. So that's still $400~ US.

Give me a couple days and we'll see how far I get on mine.

Well, when the water gets deep anything that keeps the engine running longer can make the difference between being flat out @#$%ed or just pulling out on the other side, or having time to back out and rethink things. Anyways, my stock placed S-pipe has held up pretty well, save a few dents, it was pretty much from the tranny back that the exhaust kept getting trashed. I'm going to make a full belly skid and that should end that. I'm still not sure what type of mount I can use that will provide some isolation/dampening but keep the stack rigid. Save slipping a rubber bushing over the pipe, and then slipping a larger dia. pipe over that and welding brackets to it. Think I could get a closeup pic of the actual mount on the semi? TIA, mjeff87

Yeah, but it's not like Pat's (pingpong) rig, which is what I'd classify as 'not stock appearing'.

I have a tendency to wind up in water up to the headlights... I'm thinking I'll run another as a snorkle. I might have to geat creative with the routing. But anyways, I need an exhaust system that is better than the one I have. Apparently the cops frown on you cutting it off at the tranny mount.

Since I'm somewhat redneck, I think I'll be getting a cherry bomb. Or maybe it's because I'm really cheap. Anyways, since I don't have a bed and all, I figured I'd run the tail pipe straight up the back of the cab. I'd paint it black of course. Now, I'm wondering if it'll be alright to bolt that pipe to the back of the cab, without any sort of dampeners or such, as long as I have one of those flex fitting things at the bottom? Or is $#!& gonna rattle? (It's a Jeep, who cares, but still I'd rather it not sound like an big angry bee like the ricers.) Now, if I need some sort of dampener/isolator, how the heck do I build one?

Take it wheeling on its last day, just to show it what could have been...

Yeah, Torx, my enemy... But what was worse was I snapped off one of those brake speed bleeders. Man, that took a long time to extract. But I frigured out how to weld stainless pretty good by the end.

Are these guys talking shorty headers, not longtubes? Then I agree with Pat. Spend your money elsewhere. I'm so tempted to try making my own longtube header with a pipe bender. (That harbor freight special one that costs $99) Like everything else, I'd save money but it'll take me 3 weeks...

I just bought $426 Cnd worth of steel. My wallet bleeds. That was more than my 35s.

Always good to see some stock appearing LWB action.

You can make them yourself with an angle grinder and a couple peices of box tubing... Although you're spring under, which makes is a tad more tricky. You'd just have to grind a bit more. Strangely enough, I can't actually think of anybody who makes them right now.

Oh right, their 12 bolt. I think there's only 3 gear ratios for it...

Because you were tryng to build on a budget :nuts: :rotf: You didnt listen to what ppl were telling you :thwak: and you are from :Canadaflag: and we all know how you all like to do things differently up there :smart: No, I read too much JeepForum :oops: and they're all yuppies :banana: and convinced me that I wouldn't need to. But hey, I think I might be able to trade my cutlass supreme for a D60.

What backspacing do those rims have? Any spacers? (Again I'm going 'why the f' didn't I just go fullwidth?')

The Izusu D44 uses different gears, methinks. But I only read the izusu stuff when I'm REALLY bored.

With mine it wasn't the handle breaking. My release rod touched the battery and went kaboom, and lit the engine bay on fire... Thanks for the past help Pete... This should be stickied. That reminds me, the latest issue of 4WD mag, or maybe it was peterson's 4x4 had an article on the crappy things about cherokees. They didn't know how to release the hood this way. They seemed to think that it was perfectly acceptable to just get the sawzall and cut until it popped open. While normally I'm not against sawzalling offending metal, I found it a little odd that they didn't know a better way.

With me and my DD it came down to this: $1200 in transmission work would buy a lot of gas. Therefor, I can drive the MJ instead. Sound theory. Practice, well, that's a different story.

They're a bit longer than you'd want, but not by enough to affect ride height noticably. They are the right width. And he wants 2" of lift! So 5" eye to eye would really not work... Anyways, those shackles look good.

Yeah, just if you are going to rebuild it... Remove it from the vehicle first! (Hey, it was worth a shot)

I cut the ubolts off of my extra D35 just because it was so amsuing watching them blow apart... Cordless sawzall eh? I should invest in one of those...