DirtyComanche

Not much money = I wouldn't do any of it. Unless something is obviously wrong, and at that point I'd probably reevaluate using that engine. Where are you getting this engine? It's pretty easy to exceed the value of a good used engine by throwing parts at it. Last 4.0 I built up was a free longblock, it was a waste of time/money, I could have found him a tight complete engine for far less than he was into it for when we were done. His build, not mine.

They make them from a "military grade alloy", oh, wait, it's 6111 and the military doesn't use that for anything. It should last okay for the first phase of their life, after that the corrosion will likely go intergranular and it will be impossible to repair. 5-10 years, just long enough to ensure the warranty has expired.

That's the thermostat housing. The intake manifold is the thing the TBI is bolted on above the exhaust manifold/header.

The 2.5L is just a 4.0L with 2 cylinders removed. Or more or less. That said, I was wrong, they put the CTS in the water jacket in the intake manifold on the TBI 2.5L engines. It's brass coloured, two wires, weatherpack style connector on the pigtail.

The CTS for the ECM is under the intake, in the side of the block. Or so I recall it being, since it's there on the 4.0L and everything is basically the same (minus 2 cylinders). But like I said, replace the tstat first and see what's going on. You could actually just pull the one in there out and see if it closes properly, then test it in a pot of water on the stove (with a thermometer), it should not open until 195* or so.

Replace it first.

Okay, you probably missed my edit. Your gauge is in Fahrenheit? 100 degrees is too low then, and either the sender or gauge is jacked, or the thermostat is bad. Since you have running rich issues, and I'm guessing things are largely unknown with the engine, I would change the thermostat first. There's a CTS that's for the ECM. It's the actual CTS. The one you're talking about is the temp sender for the gauge. No idea on tach issues.

Yes, the second batch of P/Ns I gave you are for that. It is for the gauge. Is the gauge always at 100, or is that after it warms up? Either way, the gauge (if it's working) is only telling you what the engine is doing, it is not affecting how it is doing anything. The first batch of P/Ns I gave you are for the sensor that the ECM uses to determine if the engine is hot or cold, and will affect A/F ratio. Personally I don't know much about the TBI units, but they function the same as any other FI system at the end of the day, they will only do as well as they can with the information they're given. You should make sure the CTS for the ECM is functioning correctly, along with the O2 sensor, MAP, and IAT sensors. And of these producing erroneous information can cause a rich condition. Also too high of fuel pressure, or a stuck injector can do this (especially with a TBI). Edit, I'm guessing you're in the US... I assumed 100* C, which is where it should be on the gauge... If as it warms up it gets to 100* F and stops (100* F is only about half of what it should get to), likely the tstat is stuck open and that will also cause a rich condition.

If it's in the head it's for the gauge. Those P/Ns I gave you should work. I believe the later sensors work too, but they may or may not actually cross reference. What is wrong to begin with?

Yeah, they're quirky, not well documented, but most stuff is readily available. I threw out all my 2.5L TBI stuff, apparently it's worth big bucks because some of what is not considered to be 'wear' parts is very hard to get now... So there is that.

It's in the head? For the gauge? Goes in from the top? Not into the block? SMP TS268 or Airtex/Wells 1T1160. But, I think there's a better one that crosses to them, but I'm not totally sure. Either should work. They're under $10. If you really want somebody can look in the actual parts catalog and find a better brand that crosses to that P/N.

The 86 isn't a unicorn, its just weird. I have one out back, but the engine is gone. NTK EF0073 should be what you want.

Thanks.

What's the P/N for the grommet? Or did they come with them? I'm probably going to need a couple.

I wanted to stop at a proper lookout or something for a decent picture. They were all either closed or in thick fog. I stopped there to pee and didn't even notice the trash.

Thanks! For remaining Unlimited Rubicons that were optioned how I wanted and in the province, I had the choice between black, white, or this one (Gobi). Black and white are boring, so I went with the Gobi. It's grown on me a lot. I actually phoned the dealer about a used one that was red, and he talked me into a better optioned new one for the same price. First mod will probably be a deadpedal, since it's an auto and I hate not having something to do with my left. Of course one of the hubcaps departed since I took that picture... Somewhere along the 1000km journey home with it. So it's definitely gone. I guess I'll get to see how good the warranty really is! It's actually new new. Not 'new'' to me but previously enjoyed, not a 'new' lemon that they're trying to flog after buying back, not 'new' as in they rebuilt most of it with 'new' parts after something terrible happened. I know, that's weird that'd I'd buy that, but after pricing every used Unlimited and Unlimited Rubicon in the entire province, I realized it made more sense just to buy new this time. $9000 off sticker was what clinched it; FCA wants the last of the new JKs gone. FWIW, I found a nice 2011 Unlimited with almost 300,000km and a blown engine, and the seller was firm at $10K. I kept saying $6K because it was dead, and they kept saying it had a new alternator and recent brakes. I'm not sure how useful a new alternator is on something with a hole in the engine, and I don't see needing the brakes at that point either. That's how stupid the prices are for used ones...

Missed my last one... figured I'd pay the little bit of extra money for the Rubicon decals this time.

That is really weird. Either way, renting while looking for a house is a better plan than just jumping into buying a house. I was under duress when I bought mine, my current landlords were going to sell and I needed to find a place to go. I don't think it affected my decision making in a positive way.

They're better quality than what you will get with a 'cheap' steel wheel. I can get a set done for about $250 here, so I'd expect in the US it could be done for about $150 at most.

I'd get those black powdercoated before I'd put steel wheels on, but that's just me.

Try Amazon too. I got a set of Procomps for about 50% off. Like Pete said, make sure the backspacing will work. Pushing the tires out often makes them interfere with the fenders, unless they're been cut or you have lift.

You're in the US? Search Summit Racing for AR 767 or Crager Soft 8. Probably the cheapest decent steel wheels you can get. Pro Comp also can be had cheap, but I'm not sure Summit is the best dealer for them, and for some reason their load ratings always seem to be pretty low.

Yeah, good YJs are now rare. They've all be badly modded, owned by methheads, written off, or rusted out. They're the new CJ. The TJ is now the beater trail rig. The JK is now the trail rig for people with money, or who still want to be able to DD it reliable. The JL is for people who want a mallcrawler, or have deep enough pockets or few enough braincells to destroy something that expensive offroad.

I moved mine because my profile is vague. I also slightly moved all the members that were stacked on top of each other because they just had their profile as BC, so I could select myself. That's just to explain what happened if there's a change log somewhere that's visible.

The crappy plastic clips that hold the lines in are not meant to be reused. If you do they may well not lock in and will pop out like that. Somebody has posted the P/N for the 'repair' part that's a new clip and orings before, but I don't know what it is because I can't order it in Canada. Dorman sells them too, and they're not hard to source.