DirtyComanche

Just to clarify, they are supposed to.

4.10 - 5.13 Unless you spend all day going 70mph+, go damn low. But, it's a lot cheaper to pick up a set of 4cyl axles with 4.10s in them. Or a 4cyl front and a 8.8 rear.

Better than my cutlass. You could start it with a screwdriver. And open the doors that way. However, the most valuable thing I kept in that car was my $6 ice scraper. So, it never got stolen.

No. It WILL collect dirt and that WILL retain moisture. Not to mention salts and other things that help rust.

Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Double-duty as a steering box brace too!

Does your local require the tires to be covered? If not, you're in luck with them sticking out like that. But about pics, hmmm. Image Not Found Just trim until the fender is inline with the inner fender...

No pics until it's done.... And then, I'm making another thread for them. Postcount +++

Yeah, Mr 1300+. Hey, I built almost an entire bumper for my XJ today. Oww, the sunburn...

Think he's coming back?

Those tractor joints are NOT designed for use on a vehicle that sees street. I mean that as in they will wear extremely quickly with the combination of getting dirty and the high freequency vibrations caused by traveling at speed. Doesn't mean you can't use 'em. Personally, I'd look around. There's some nice rebuildable joints out there for not much money.

Let's see here. With customs, brokerage, and that we'd be using two couriers... Nah, I think you could probably buy an ARB for the price!

For the XJ Image Not Found That's the plan. Winch mount might be added later. Tow hooks will go sideways on the tie in brackets (might get interesting). It shouldn't hurt my approach any though. And that's what matters. I'll pick up the steel tomorrow hopefully.

Well, you can. You'd need a 4wd AX-15 to donate parts though, or buy new parts (scary expensive). Then basically it's a complete rebuild. Most guys are afraid of trannies, for pretty good reasons. Get a 4wd AX-15. (Oh, as a curiosity, you could run a divorce tcase and use a 2wd tranny. But it would be WAY more work than it is worth)

Actually, I'd wonder what axles he's running. Pete might be 'right'.

I'm a square guy myself... Even though I can get the DOM (relativly) cheap. Square is fine as long as you accept the limitations of it and work around them. Basically, put the flat side down. And you can't thread it. It won't be the weak link, the rod for the joint will be.

HSS (Square tube) is fine for control arms, rest assured. It won't be the weak part. But, I would say if you can get DOM in the size you need (that's the tricky part) without a minimum length fee, and a tape to thread it, that would be better. Actually finding the 3-4' of DOM you need without having to buy a 20' stick is unlikely.

I'd 'suggest' Use 2x2x.250 HSS for the main body. Weld a 1" fine thread grade 8 nut to each end. Weld 1" fine thread grade 8 rod to a joint of your choise. Thread a nut onto rod on joint, thread rod into main body, since down nut at desired length... Plenty strong for a UCA. Actually, overkill. The joints are the expensive part.

Where is it rubbing? Higher is not always better.

You don't need his advice, all you need is the "If in doubt, cut it out" mantra, a 6-pack or two, and some spare blades.

But Pete's won't be. I predict a hackjob of redneck porportions. (No offense ment)

Mmm... Napa should sell centring pins that have heads the same size as those holes. They sold me some.

Park on the lawn.

STD

Mine's been on 'em for half the time I've owned it. So, if they hurt it, crap.

Just so you know... What's the spring rate on those ZJ coils? 180lb/in? That means for BOTH coils to compress an inch, you have to add 360lbs to the front end of the truck! I dunno about you, but that's a heavy bumper.