DirtyComanche

I just measure and hit the monroe catalouge. If I didn't want a monroe shock, I can get the guys at the parts store to look up their normal application and find another brand shock for the same thing.

They are scared of you, scott. you do evil things to parts I want one for a DD. My MJ was the best DD in the world back when it was stock. But yeah, I've been know to have been hard on a few things... Image Not Found That door used to actually close right.

You can adjust their joints with a pin punch and a BFH. IIRC.

It's always good to see there's still clean examples out there. Too bad I can't find one.

Yeah, front D44s are 3". Anybody know how thick the tubes on a MJ rear are? (wall size). 3/8"? 1/2"?

Wait, what D44? A MJ rear? I assumed you ment a front D44... Don't ask me why.

They're 3", IIRC.

you mean it wouldn't survive you, your hacksaw, or your lead-foot. The lead foot isn't really the issues. It's the 'I bet I could do that' thing

It wouldn't survive me.

Anybody with the title of 'guidance director' is not likely to understnad humour. Or people for that matter.

The CAD ones are really the only bad apples, IIRC. Well, other than the passenger drop ones, but if a guy wanted to run a D300 or something that might fit the bill. But yes, LP, it's annoying. I hate mine. So do my driveshafts.

My 89 cherrykee is r-134. It works, not that I use it. Some yuppy with money had to have owned that thing before me.

I'm thinking the same thing.

Ya can always redrill the centre pins 3/4" back in the springs. I know, an odd solution... It's an absolutely annoying process as spring steel is so hard.

You need a special tool - look behind the seat. Okay, it's actually just a screw drive blade if memory serves. Anyways, it's inserted into a hole above the rear bumper in the centre - and if you turn it it winds down a cable that holds the spare tire up.

If ya got 7" of lift, most would go with about a 3-3.5 BS. Personally I'd go 2". You'll be doing some trimming.

I'm gonna try it on a wrecked shaft first.

They do use u-joints, they just use them in tandem to remove the velocity change. It is technically a constant velocity joint, just it isn't like a ball style CV. I think I know what I'm doing.

As a slight note. Life is about to get harder.

As in internally clearancing a double-cardon joint for higher angles of operation. Anybody here done it? You don't hear much about it. But apparently you can get 35* out of a 1310 CV body with no appreciable loss of strength. That is, it's still going to be stronger than a lot of the things in your drivetran. Tom Woods will do it if you pay him. But I mean, I'm a dude with an angle grinder and way more spare parts than money. So it's not really a good option. So, anybody got any information? A how to? Anything? Or should I just tear one apart and dye it and see if I can figure out a contact pattern? And as a total aside, does anybody know why certain 1310 CVs found in jeep front applications have holes drilled through the main body? I have one that looks like it was lightened and balanced (ground off the casting lines, but in a praticular fashion, and drilled two 3/4" holes through the main body). It might have even been the original to my MJ. Yet most of the ones I pick up are not like this...

I'm pretty sure the floor pedals still have to exist. And no, I like all my limbs attached like they are.

I managed to buy nothing today. Only because the guy behind the counter wasn't the normal guy, so I said f' it. I ain't paying list price.

I can't do it. I know that for a fact. However, I've seen guys do it in the pick'n'pull. I always just get glass guys to do that stuff for me. They normally charge not too bad of price.

Probably not. Maybe if I just have a hand throttle, then the clutch and brake at my feet. That'd be funky. I bet that isn't street legal either!

You'll have to cut off the old spring perches and weld on some new ones. Cherokees are spring over, comaches spring under, and the centre lines are different by about 5/8" or something.