DirtyComanche

I'd want a roll-bar and door bars for the street even. My driving does not suit anything else.

Yes. It'll be stronger than most things. Then it's just a matter of going at it. I'd probably cut the floor out of the cab because it's too complicated to bother fitting too. Figure out all your mount locations, draw some pictures, and go at it. Actually, I'd probably ditch the firewall too. I've tried to design a frame that's work better than the stocker many times. In being both lighter and more rigid... It should actually be pretty easy, it's just arriving at a design that fits your needs that's the hard part.

.188 is overkill for the 'frame' especially if you have a cage.

No 'employee discounts' but it has its kicks... Getting payed to go heli-skiing or to go fishing at some remote lodge are a couple of them.

I got a job for VIH helicopters! Apparently the ticket to getting taken on as an apprentice is to go drinking with them. I'll have to move and probably 'give up' on the MJ for a year or two, but I think it'll be worth it.

Is it some sort of a record if you have any appreciable snowfall there? I've never lived anywhere that it didn't snow.

Bingo. The 2WD MJs, praticularily the LWBs, have a driveshaft that is rather impressivly long. It's actually pretty near the limitations of what can easily be balanced to an acceptable level. If you look at most of the other mini-trucks you'll find they use a steady bearing and a 2-peice setup to reduce the length of the shaft, making it easier to balance, and to allow a reduced size to be used.

Sure it's stock height? Sounds kinda :nuts: to me. The track bar is really the only thing that keeps the axle centred. Something has to be messed up...

Is a rear main seal only supposed to last 2 years? :nuts:

Nothing like buying a turdbucket. Pretty much the stupidest thing you can do. :nuts:

As much as I'd wish to, the funds won't allow it.

Craftsman screwdrivers aren't very good. I only use fuller at home. But I'm going to buy a snap-on ratcheting one and another set of fullers this time around. The snap-on soft grip screwdrivers are affected by oil, same goes for most other soft grip screwdrivers. Which is useless. Both the snap-on I'm getting and the fullers don't have that issue...

I think I'm going to get craftsman for what I can and snap-on for the rest. Seems easy enough. The craftsman is about 10% the price of the snap-on. And it turns out there is actually a sears here that stocks tools (I had no idea, it's new).

There's no lowes here.

Here's my problem... I have to buy another set of tools for work. Luckily I don't need a stupid amount. I 'need' a whole set of SAE sockets in 12-point 1/4 drive through 3/8, plus u-joints/exentions/adapters, and a 1/2" drive ratchet. Standard SAE combination wrenches. A ratcheting screwdriver, and 1/4 drive ratcheting screwdriver, ratcheting box ends, and off-set open ends. Plus a new dead-blow, ball peen, punches, picks, drifts, short pry bar, and a bunch of other stuff that I haven't thought about. The question is who should I buy from? Some of it will basically have to be snap-on, as Mac doesn't have many dealers here... There's also craftsman (sears) which is what I mostly use at home. But the sears are rather scarce if I must return a tool. And there's other brands too. So, should I just go all snap-on? Or buy only what I must from them and get craftsman for the rest?

The shipping will kill you...

They work. Apparently they don't like side pulls. Ohwell. I smashed my tow hooks on everything when I had them like that. I also smashed my head on them a couple times. One of which left me bleeding pretty good.

I can tell you I'm right to a reasonable amount of accuracy.

500~ bare engine, or about 525 mostly there. Or in that area. Apparently.

ghey sauce.

Instead of a more typical ball-joints to hold the knuckle on to the axle, king pins are used... They're basically a pin and a set of tapered roller bearings (like wheel bearings) that allow piviting movement, but nothing else. Horrible explaination. But they're often said to be stronger. Which is fair enough, but a big ball joint is strong too (seen on newer D60s).

Make friends with somebody with a welder... I know, it sounds rather shallow, but there's lots of nice people out there with welders.

As a highly temporary (read, to get you through a VI) repair it'd work great. Longer term? Hell no. There's lots of bad things you can do, and that's right up there... A lot of expanding foams are hydroscopic and cause rust. And you CAN'T bond fiberglass to metal. EVER! A thin applcation of body filler is one thing (guys argue what 'thin' is all the time, but let's say 1/16 - 1/8") as the dissimilar expansion rate does not pose much of a problem as the final product will remain flexible enough. But fiberglass is a whole new animal - it expands very little when heated, and is very rigid even in a thin application. The end result is it will de-bond from ANY metal over time.

Decent deal. Any axle that old should be rebuilt anyways.

The body would seperate from the frame before it'd break like that.