DirtyComanche

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Speed at given rpm in OD with 4.56s and 31s.

4mph would have been well within my margin of rounding, if you mean it works out to 120. I'd take your spreadsheet but lack excel. What formula do you use?

Given: 4800rpm .78 OD 4.56 gears 31" tire I do: (4800rpm)(60min/hour)(31inchs)(3.14) --------------------------------------- (.78OD)(4.56gears)(12inchs/foot)(5280feet/mile) Giving about 124mph. Out to lunch?

Like I said, unreliable. And they just won't accept that. They seem to think if you rev a 4.0 beyond 3krpm it'll explode on the spot. Uh-huh. I'd bet money on an abused 4.0 out-lasting any toyota motor anyday.

The thing is, I get a LOT of toy owners who talk to me like this motor is a 'marvel of engineering' or 'the second coming of christ'. When in reality it's am unreliable motor that makes poor power and gets horrible fuel economy.

How many people just HATE 22Rs? I do. Garbage toy crap. 12HP at 6500rpm sure sounds great to me. And 8ft-lbs of torque to go with it. :nuts:

So I as right on it being 1/8th NPT?

It depends what type of establisment they are and who their usual customers are. There's places I can swing deals at, and places that just WON'T work with me. They know that if they wait long enough they can get the asking price and they're willing to wait. $450 is too much. I could get an 8.8 pulled, with 4.10s, disks, and a LS for a lower price than that on an half hours notice. And that's not a good deal either... A D44 out of a MJ/XJ is rarer, but not worth as much (300-400 from the scammers, $150 from the better yards).

Coolant temp? They're typically 1/8th NPT. However, been a long time since I looked at a 4-popper.

They're supposed to be 3HP each, so if you got 4 that'd make 12HP. :roll: Scam.

The engine is fine. Tell the mechanic he's an idiot. Just get that rear main replaced.

Legally you're required two in BC. I never run the front, it always falls off somewhere or gets horribly smashed. I've never got in trouble for it either... But then I've never had any tickets but a 'failure to display N' BS ticket and generally avoid cops at all costs.

I take it a gearwrench is a retcheting box end? I have craftsman SAE ones, but I've actually never used them (bought them on winter vacation, they were on sale). I don't know what the Mac ones are like, but I'd expect for them to be that much more expensive. Craftsman stuff is just cheap... I don't actually like my craftsman ratcheting box ends, but they were all I could find. The end is just too large to actually fit where I need it. Snap-on used to make very nice stubby ones with a very small head, but they discontinued them (bet the auto mechanics broke 'em a lot).

You can pop the hubs out by putting a bolt between the axle tube and ujoint and firing the truck up and turning the tires... If you have power steering that is. I've done it a few times. And for everything else I'd either have used a sledge hammer or lots of heat. I've never wrecked a rotor with my sledge yet, and I use an 8-pounder. You just need a little wood.

Why ditch the renix? It's a better fuel injection system than a lot of them, IMHO. And it's not like ANY of the parts are discontinued.

There's only so many out there, and they get broken often enough... It's like the other MJ specific parts, they're dwindling out as time progresses.

You just have to be willing to go for it... In my case it means moving and giving up a LOT of things that I had going otherwise. If you go north, there is work... I think there's a lot more tech schools in the states, so they produce far more guys than they do here. Which is probably a huge factor in work avaliability too.

I'd want a roll-bar and door bars for the street even. My driving does not suit anything else.

Yes. It'll be stronger than most things. Then it's just a matter of going at it. I'd probably cut the floor out of the cab because it's too complicated to bother fitting too. Figure out all your mount locations, draw some pictures, and go at it. Actually, I'd probably ditch the firewall too. I've tried to design a frame that's work better than the stocker many times. In being both lighter and more rigid... It should actually be pretty easy, it's just arriving at a design that fits your needs that's the hard part.

.188 is overkill for the 'frame' especially if you have a cage.

No 'employee discounts' but it has its kicks... Getting payed to go heli-skiing or to go fishing at some remote lodge are a couple of them.

I got a job for VIH helicopters! Apparently the ticket to getting taken on as an apprentice is to go drinking with them. I'll have to move and probably 'give up' on the MJ for a year or two, but I think it'll be worth it.

Is it some sort of a record if you have any appreciable snowfall there? I've never lived anywhere that it didn't snow.

Bingo. The 2WD MJs, praticularily the LWBs, have a driveshaft that is rather impressivly long. It's actually pretty near the limitations of what can easily be balanced to an acceptable level. If you look at most of the other mini-trucks you'll find they use a steady bearing and a 2-peice setup to reduce the length of the shaft, making it easier to balance, and to allow a reduced size to be used.