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DirtyComanche

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Everything posted by DirtyComanche

  1. DirtyComanche
    That's a little out of my intended price range. I know, I have $10k in the driveline and suspension, but heaven forbid I spend more than $100 on the seats.
  2. DirtyComanche
    Yeah, the width is massively different and it's a bit of a problem. Stock axles are 60"~ from wheel mounting surface (WMS) to the other WMS. (They aren't exactly 60" but we'll leave that alone for now) Truck axles are regarded as being full width and are typically 67" to 72" WMS to WMS. Thus you will need to match both the front and rear axles, and you will have tires sticking out from the fenders, which can cause legal problems. And as said, the bolt pattern is a problem. The factory 5x4.5 pattern is unfortunate as it is too small to work on many axles, which leaves limited options. Walking away from the 5x4.5 pattern is IMHO the best course of action if one plans to upgrade axles...
  3. DirtyComanche
    Any you would recommend?
  4. DirtyComanche
    Didn't read the thread, did ya? Nothing is 'taking the amps away'. The starter is loading massively, which is actually causing the amperage to go sky high. The fact that it cranks nicely with the ignition unhooked confirms that it is likely a timing related issue, which is a control related issue, which is ECU and everything that goes with it. Sure, it could be the disty, but I wouldn't be replacing a thing before I confirmed all sensor functions appear normal.
  5. DirtyComanche
    I actually think it's more likely to be an issue with the crank position sensor and what the ECU interprets from it. But if your MAP, intake air temp, coolant temp sensors are providing faulty or erratic outputs it could play into it. I think the coil and ICM are both 'works or doesn't' type of equipment.
  6. DirtyComanche
    Well that was a hell of an update. That's a Dakota tank then?
  7. DirtyComanche
    If you're going to break the Torx that hold the door on free, you might as well back them right out and fix the hinge properly. The longer you leave the messed up hinge pins in, the harder they are to remove. Just make sure the Torx are clean and you use a good bit when you go to take them out. If things look crusty, you might want to pull the door panel and feed some WD-40 or equivalent onto the threads from the inside of the door. Personally I've found they always come out, eventually.
  8. DirtyComanche
    Pull the door, the pin is either broken or has a severe step worn in it. You may have to get heinous and cut the lower third of the hinge off, which is good if you want quick hinges, otherwise it's a trip the junkyard for a new one.
  9. DirtyComanche
    Absolutely. But you're removing the small timers and joyriders with a few basic steps, which makes up most of the theft of a vehicle like a Comanche.
  10. DirtyComanche
    This is the 'keyed' battery disconnect I was talking about: http://www.tmrcustoms.com/store/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=268&products_id=2486
  11. DirtyComanche
    And Tim Cameron rather promptly cut the independent suspension off his rig and tossed a set of bling solid axles under it. Independent suspension works, but at a price. There is no cheap, simple, and reliable for it. Anything that the great Fiat will be providing the market will be expensive, over complicated, and unreliable. I dare them to prove me wrong.
  12. DirtyComanche
    I have a spare of those. I can check. Alternatively you could install the XJ rear wiper switch, it would work and I doubt anyone would go 'Hang on, there's no rear wiper...' Ringing them out, you could use either switch. I'm not sure if they're up to the task, as they're both a little chintzy. However you can swap the switches in their holders, so perhaps the fog light switch would be the best bet, but you could put it in the wiper or power/comfort holder if you want. I do not have a fog light switch, at least not that I could find.
  13. DirtyComanche
    I have a spare of those. I can check. Alternatively you could install the XJ rear wiper switch, it would work and I doubt anyone would go 'Hang on, there's no rear wiper...'
  14. DirtyComanche
    Interesting idea. Easy to do also. I have a master switch have for the battery buried in my XJ. You would just need a piece of 8ga wire to bypass it though, providing you realize what's going on. But it's dead in the water otherwise. Also really handy is the NSS is so poorly adjusted that you need to wiggle the shifter while starting it, however I intend to fix that. TMR customs sells a battery disconnect that the handle comes off when turned to the off position, acting as a key. I would have bought that style over what I have, but I was not aware of it at the time.
  15. DirtyComanche
    See my last post. You just don't have to do anything to the head. Don't be afraid to use a BFH. I've had more than a few of the roll pins come out in pieces...
  16. DirtyComanche
    That's too bad. Grind the head off with a die grinder. A rolock pad with 40 grit would make quick work of it. Get a good 1/4" pin punch and a little 2lb sledge and go at it from the top. Dousing the hinge with oil and working the door back and forth while doing this will help. Otherwise, pull the doors. It's not a big deal. Just make sure you have a good quality torx bit that goes on a ratchet. They will be much easier to drive out with the doors off since the hinge is unloaded and you have more room. That's me, YMMV.
  17. DirtyComanche
    I have modded 2dr bucket seats in my 4dr XJ, and the covers are beat and gross. I'm not looking to fit different OEM covers to them, rather just a universal cover. Has anyone purchased any off Amazon or the like? How well did they fit, would you buy them again, etc? Just want a grey or black. Really looking for people to not have the first reaction of 'Eww' when they see the interior. :rotf:
  18. DirtyComanche
    That. Cheap, effective, available locally, and less likely to break than the OEM style roll pins. Or, if one was interested, now would be the time to do quick release hinges. I have them on my XJ just so I can get the doors off for maintenance.
  19. DirtyComanche
    I was going to say it won't stay, but if it's the foamy stuff it probably will. Contact cement, despite being 'for use on rubber' doesn't hold rubber that well. Great idea, I'm going to have to see if I can find that stuff around here.
  20. DirtyComanche
    88 and 89 have some major wiring differences. If you want I can look at my 89 FSM to tell you if that matches it, but I'm thinking it does.
  21. DirtyComanche
    Thanks.
  22. DirtyComanche
    I'd write off the front tires. They are time bombs if you try to use them. The D30 might need new seals and the ball joints may not last long after that. Brake calipers might not be okay either. Otherwise it should be okay. Forget the engine and Trans. The engine might be good for a core, but I wouldn't even do that given that I could get a better core for nothing. 231 might need new seals, I doubt it got hot enough to really wreck it, however they really aren't worth anything (I started throwing them out) and would find a known good one before bothering with that one. So, I think you've really got a box that can be fixed, a tailgate and lights, a set of rims, a rear axle, and maybe a fuel tank and some odds and ends. Value is subjective, but I could sell that D44 for $400 easy, so I'd probably go as high as $700 or so. But I know I could use that box (I have one that had a tree fall on it). Really up to you what's it's worth though.
  23. DirtyComanche
    Hang on, listening to it... Pull the lead wire from the coil to the disty, see if it does it while cranking like that. If it cranks cleanly until the battery starts to fade (30 seconds of cranking at least), I'm guessing it's actually an issue with too much timing advance during the start. Why this would be is something to think about.
  24. DirtyComanche
    How was the battery actually load tested? 90% of the tester out there are complete garbage. Being who I am, I'd put the battery from my plow truck in it and try it... Because as I see it, you've either got a bad battery, a silly issue (loose connection somewhere, you could try making sure everything is tight when hot), or real problems. 2 minutes to check the big ground on the block and big positive connection on the solenoid, and wiggle the battery terminals to make sure they aren't loose when warm, then I'd move on to swapping the battery. If it's real problems, it's a whole post as to of where I would go with that.
  25. DirtyComanche
    And who is that....????
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