DirtyComanche

It can run without it. Not properly though. This: http://www.cherokeetalk.com/forum/f64/throttle-body-swap-renix-70mm-6236/ It could be done a bit cleaner regarding the actual adapter plate, but all in all he did a pretty decent job of it.

I think most police departments are running automatic plate scanners now. They do up here at least... And yes, they will stop and ask you why your vehicle isn't the colour the registration says it is, if they don't have anything better to do. I thoroughly enjoy the colour on my plowtruck's registration. It's just 'Multi' :rotf: I never knew that was an option until I took it to get the insurance renewed and parked it in plain view of the insurance agent's desk and she suggested we change it to that since it definitely was more correct than 'Orange' (only the fenders were still orange).

With the original Bosch relays (I'm talking early 80 to 90s) they definitely lived longer when mounted vertical. The current ones are completely sealed and do not care at all. Cheap relays probably still suffer this issue, and I have seen more than a few people report that with the Chicom relays that come with the Putco harness. As an aside, I bought the Putco harness and installed it a couple days ago. I would not buy it again. People had warned me that they used cheap components, but I could get it off Amazon (Prime, makes it easy for me) so I bought it anyways. All said and done I would have rather spent the time to make my own harness using decent components. The Putco stuff is definitely very cheap/cheesy.

And the last one is definitely mine, Paypal accepted. :banana:

Wow, it looks way better.

Use your heater lines instead. If it's cold out your tstat will stay closed, and there will be little to no heat in the rad. Also, you're going to need some sort of a pump to move coolant if you try to do it with the trans cooler as whatever convection based flow you get will be extremely minimal. 99% of conventional propane installs use the heater lines for a reason.

Normally the trans cooler is just a separate little 'tank' style exchanger in the end cap of the radiator on the 'cold' side. Guys have used them for warming up water for a shower or whatever, but the amount of BTUs that you can get out of it is limited as the whole engine cooling system has to be pretty well saturated and it's not that big of a heat exchanger. You can buy plate style exchangers and splice it in the heater lines if you want better output. Expedition Portal is the place to go for that sort of stuff, IMHO, lots of DIYs and writeups on there for projects like that.

I'm surprised I haven't seen this before, actually, since the Comanche community is one of the larger Renix resources. That said, I don't spend as much time reading stuff as I used to.

I don't think there's any left...

It probably isn't a problem but you should has asked rather than just letting it go. I think Alberta's registration system is pretty lacking so I suspect it's fairly common for something like that, it was probably just a typo at some point. I had a GM truck that said it was an Express (van) on the paperwork and it wasn't a problem, but I still don't know why it was like that. VIN checked out and was a truck VIN.

I have sorta been working on this. But not much is 'done' so nothing to really show yet. But as a sneak peak here is what I am doing for my air pressure gauge and the switch to turn the compressor on: I wanted to do this to an actual clock housing, but the circuit board takes up the entire thing! So that wouldn't be possible. Gotta love 80's tech. Luckily the boneyard had an XJ that somebody was cheap enough to not order a clock when they bought it...

Well, I refuse to subscribe to any social media that's more modern than forums... Is somebody going to bump this with an auction link when he has built more?

Interesting...

My main issue is you need to keep up with the flatbillers that are rocking the LEDs and a leveling kit. Even on lowbeam they're aimed right at you, so you need something that at least makes enough light to give you a chance to see something other than just their lights...

Looks like a solid donor.

I think you might want to look into a Megasquirt or a Microsquirt. I don't know how terrible they are to set up, but they work with the Renix sensors (the crank position being the main issue because the logic output from it is very different from anything else used by anyone). If that isn't ideal I don't know what I'd say, but probably ditching as much Renix stuff as possible and going to GM compatible components and some sort of aftermarket GM derived controls would be my gut instinct. There's a lot of options out there for adding EFI to engines that never had it, many of which come with provisions for forced induction, and given the lack of compatibility with Renix (and HO, before Hornbrod gets too excited by me saying this stuff) components and logic, you could easily be way ahead by ditching everything the factory provided.

How much snow do you get? I have/had a front receiver mount plow on my K-Truck (known as 'Operation Plowshare'). It did not hold up. There is way too much leverage on a single mount point for it to last if you're trying to do anything more than move 1" of snow for a short distance on flat/level ground with nothing to possibly snag the blade on. My plow is/was a K2, but I've seen them under very similar sounding brand names, Chicom junk, but priced well... One of my friends has the above Meyer and I did a lot of preemptive welding on it because it's honestly about as strong as the K2 plow I have. My own now has more rubbish I've welded onto it than original parts, including a whole new mount and lifting system. Don't be like me, buy something that will actually work for what you're doing.

Interesting. I now doubt my entire life. It's like the Berenstain Bears thing.

The stock track bar is a total POS. Throw it out. You need a HD replacement and you want one with a HD bracket. I don't know who makes a good one in this day and age, but probably RE... Also, be prepared to do an alignment.

The 2.8L was the GM engine. The aftermarket has 2.5L valve covers... And there's millions in junkyards.

Also, if it's leaking oil anywhere from the engine, do that before you change the oil. Chances are it's like most of these engines and the valve cover leaks, so change the gasket on it and degrease the top of the engine. Then check the adapter for the oil filter. There's a oring in there that tends to go over time. Then check the front and rear main and the pan gasket. No point filling it full of expensive synthetic oil just to dump it in a bucket to change a gasket a couple weeks later... Look at the freeze plugs for weeping too. Again, if you're horny to change the coolant, you'll want to make sure you don't need to do those first...

I don't mind spending money and would rather be safe than sorry, but obviously I don't want to be wasteful. If there's a legitimate reason something might need to be changed at 200k miles, I want to make sure it's done and done right. I figure with things like brakes I'll wait until I replace them once it gets warmer to do a full tune-up. I've driven it a bit already and they felt fine so I'm not too concerned with them. Any particular reason you'd wait on the coolant? Seems to be pretty straightforward and inexpensive to do. It's still a waste of time and money unless you're in there anyways. If it looks fine and is the right mix you're not likely gaining anything changing it. If there is something wrong, such as the heater doesn't work right, or the truck overheats, okay, start looking at it, but it won't likely be the coolant itself that is the issue. If it's red or brown, or foamy, or there's an oil slick, again, things to look into.

How much do you want to spend? Because I could just tell you to do everything... Or you could just change the engine oil, look the truck over, and go from there. Axle, trans, tcase, etc, oil does not need to be changed that often, it is IMHO all on condition and if you're like me you will wind up changing it because you're inside those components for another reason anyways. Coolant, I'd wait for another reason to be in there, IE if the hoses are soft or the water pump has started to weep, then you change it and flush everything. Plugs/wires/cap, worth looking at, I wouldn't just buy a set without looking first. Fuel filter, if it's a rusted blob and the hoses are rotting, sure. Tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, grease what you can and get the prybar on stuff beyond that, if it drives nicely the chances are everything is still pretty reasonable. Look the brakes over like Pete said, and yeah, giving them a quick flush might be worth it, but again I'd probably evaluate and decide if there would be another reason to be in there before doing it. I don't do as little as possible, but there's very little advantage to over servicing something but rather a whole lot of cost to go with it.

Closed cooling systems were the future. Lots of modern stuff has it. And it was reliable for about the first 15 years... The Mopar types deleted the knock sensor, not smart. Honestly, both setups are junk, we just cling to it because it's what we have.

I ran a GM I6 HEI with an AMC 360 drive gear on it. They will bolt in that way. Summit now sells one of their own brand for $140 or something, complete drop in setup and 100% new parts. I am on the fence about ordering one for my J-truck and ditching the Ford parts on it.