DirtyComanche

Interesting...

My main issue is you need to keep up with the flatbillers that are rocking the LEDs and a leveling kit. Even on lowbeam they're aimed right at you, so you need something that at least makes enough light to give you a chance to see something other than just their lights...

Looks like a solid donor.

I think you might want to look into a Megasquirt or a Microsquirt. I don't know how terrible they are to set up, but they work with the Renix sensors (the crank position being the main issue because the logic output from it is very different from anything else used by anyone). If that isn't ideal I don't know what I'd say, but probably ditching as much Renix stuff as possible and going to GM compatible components and some sort of aftermarket GM derived controls would be my gut instinct. There's a lot of options out there for adding EFI to engines that never had it, many of which come with provisions for forced induction, and given the lack of compatibility with Renix (and HO, before Hornbrod gets too excited by me saying this stuff) components and logic, you could easily be way ahead by ditching everything the factory provided.

How much snow do you get? I have/had a front receiver mount plow on my K-Truck (known as 'Operation Plowshare'). It did not hold up. There is way too much leverage on a single mount point for it to last if you're trying to do anything more than move 1" of snow for a short distance on flat/level ground with nothing to possibly snag the blade on. My plow is/was a K2, but I've seen them under very similar sounding brand names, Chicom junk, but priced well... One of my friends has the above Meyer and I did a lot of preemptive welding on it because it's honestly about as strong as the K2 plow I have. My own now has more rubbish I've welded onto it than original parts, including a whole new mount and lifting system. Don't be like me, buy something that will actually work for what you're doing.

Interesting. I now doubt my entire life. It's like the Berenstain Bears thing.

The stock track bar is a total POS. Throw it out. You need a HD replacement and you want one with a HD bracket. I don't know who makes a good one in this day and age, but probably RE... Also, be prepared to do an alignment.

The 2.8L was the GM engine. The aftermarket has 2.5L valve covers... And there's millions in junkyards.

Also, if it's leaking oil anywhere from the engine, do that before you change the oil. Chances are it's like most of these engines and the valve cover leaks, so change the gasket on it and degrease the top of the engine. Then check the adapter for the oil filter. There's a oring in there that tends to go over time. Then check the front and rear main and the pan gasket. No point filling it full of expensive synthetic oil just to dump it in a bucket to change a gasket a couple weeks later... Look at the freeze plugs for weeping too. Again, if you're horny to change the coolant, you'll want to make sure you don't need to do those first...

I don't mind spending money and would rather be safe than sorry, but obviously I don't want to be wasteful. If there's a legitimate reason something might need to be changed at 200k miles, I want to make sure it's done and done right. I figure with things like brakes I'll wait until I replace them once it gets warmer to do a full tune-up. I've driven it a bit already and they felt fine so I'm not too concerned with them. Any particular reason you'd wait on the coolant? Seems to be pretty straightforward and inexpensive to do. It's still a waste of time and money unless you're in there anyways. If it looks fine and is the right mix you're not likely gaining anything changing it. If there is something wrong, such as the heater doesn't work right, or the truck overheats, okay, start looking at it, but it won't likely be the coolant itself that is the issue. If it's red or brown, or foamy, or there's an oil slick, again, things to look into.

How much do you want to spend? Because I could just tell you to do everything... Or you could just change the engine oil, look the truck over, and go from there. Axle, trans, tcase, etc, oil does not need to be changed that often, it is IMHO all on condition and if you're like me you will wind up changing it because you're inside those components for another reason anyways. Coolant, I'd wait for another reason to be in there, IE if the hoses are soft or the water pump has started to weep, then you change it and flush everything. Plugs/wires/cap, worth looking at, I wouldn't just buy a set without looking first. Fuel filter, if it's a rusted blob and the hoses are rotting, sure. Tie rods, ball joints, wheel bearings, grease what you can and get the prybar on stuff beyond that, if it drives nicely the chances are everything is still pretty reasonable. Look the brakes over like Pete said, and yeah, giving them a quick flush might be worth it, but again I'd probably evaluate and decide if there would be another reason to be in there before doing it. I don't do as little as possible, but there's very little advantage to over servicing something but rather a whole lot of cost to go with it.

Closed cooling systems were the future. Lots of modern stuff has it. And it was reliable for about the first 15 years... The Mopar types deleted the knock sensor, not smart. Honestly, both setups are junk, we just cling to it because it's what we have.

I ran a GM I6 HEI with an AMC 360 drive gear on it. They will bolt in that way. Summit now sells one of their own brand for $140 or something, complete drop in setup and 100% new parts. I am on the fence about ordering one for my J-truck and ditching the Ford parts on it.

They're different because the ECM reads the output from the crank position sensor (CPS) differently Renix vs HO. I don't know if there is other differences or not.

Unfortunately none of the replacement tanks are plastic. I purchased a Spectra Premium steel replacement tank for my shortbox, and I feel it is of acceptable quality and will probably last quite well. I did go to the effort to paint it for added rust protection though. For a plastic tank guys have been able to use Dakota ones, however the pump and sender are different and it would not be a direct bolt in.

To do everything over again I'd probably just order RCVs. But then again, I like spending money foolishly.

Yup, vent line, it is important.

Looks like you managed to get it all to fit nicely in the end. Too bad the ZJ booster didn't work, I wonder if they're all non-adjustable?

I bought ZJ CVs because I had damaged 260x shafts. So far I like them but don't have a lot of miles or abuse on them. I think they're probably all around better than the 260x shafts and aren't a lot of money. Personally I would never bother changing a set of 260x ujoints. Junkyard some newer style ones, or buy aftermarket.

In the FSM there is instructions on how to make it from straight 30W and limited slip additive, they were aware that even at that time that the oil would be hard to source. That is the common method of dealing with it now. I'm not sure if it is recommended to try the 'identical' spec oils that are listed in the post Hornbrod quoted. I haven't changed the oil on mine and haven't decided what I'm going to do about the truck as a whole anyways. The whole truck is pretty terrible and has been abused by hillbillys for quite some time.

It's probably as good as it ever was. Somebody with a Quadrajunk will want it. Actually, if I was stateside I'd be sending you money for it already. Since I do have one...

This is for the bushing at the axle end, which is not changed out when going to aftermarket or WJ arms. The plan is to build the UCAs using junk I have lying around, so the frame end would be drilled out to a 1/2" bolt at least anyways as I don't have any poly bushings or similar that use smaller bolts. Bolt failures occur right after you get away from the flimsy U-channel setup, the fact they are so flimsy is why the bolts survive. No, I don't anticipate having a problem, but the JK bushings are actually cheaper than the XJ ones with my account discount, so if there's a (potentially) better part that's cheaper then why not?

Has anyone tried using JK UCA bushings in order to go to a larger bolt? Allegedly the OD of the bushings are the same as XJ/MJ ones, but they use as 12mm bolt rather than a 10mm. It would seem it should be easy enough to open the hole up a tiny little bit in order to then run a 1/2" bolt if one wished.

Metric hardware? It was pricey then...

I haven't bought anything yet but I think a booster upgrade will be in order... Gonna have to check Rockauto.